Editor’s Note: As of November 2014, this restaurant is closed.
Terra Fusion Peru was one of the last restaurants I tried during my August 2012 visit.
Prominently located on the ground floor of La Strada Malla, on Avenida Poblado, it’s impossible to miss.
Having spent 7 months in Peru between 2011-2012, my expectations for Peruvian food are high. I went to the source, and dined like a king on Causa, Aji de Gallina, and Ceviche.
It was therefore with a small degree of apprehension that I entered Terra Fusion Peru.
My first impression of the dining area was positive.
Under the awnings, there were leather couches in what appeared to be a lounge area, perfect for sipping happy hour cocktails with friends or coworkers.
I was there for lunch, and it was empty. The restaurant is still open today, so it must be doing pretty well.
When a restaurant puts “fusion” in the name, I immediately have to give it some slack, as that allows the chefs to take liberties with traditional recipes.
In the case of Causa Limena (14,500 pesos or $7.94), one of my favorite Peruvian dishes, they got the basics right.
Causa Limena is basically two patties of mashed potatoes, sandwiching chicken (seafood or vegetarian) salad, tomato, and avocado.
Unfortunately, someone thought it’d be a good idea to whip up an olive cream sauce and douse the causa in it. This gets a big FAIL in my book. If I ever order it there again, I’ll tell them to hold the sauce, because it was otherwise well executed.
In Peru, causa is routinely presented with a drizzle of Salsa Huancaina, a spicy Peruvian sauce made of cheese, onions, and yellow aji chili peppers. It tastes way better.
Another of my favorite Peruvian foods is Aji de Gallina, with its shredded chicken bathed in a thick and creamy, slightly spicy, aji chili pepper sauce.
It’s traditionally served on top of boiled and sliced potatoes, alongside rice, and topped with a sliced hardboiled egg, and black olives (which I always pushed to the side).
At Terra Fusion Peru, it’s listed on the menu as “Pollo fusion en salsa suave de aji amarillo” (19,500 pesos, $10.68) which I found odd. It’s no secret Colombian food favors bland over spicy, so it may be this description is more appealing to paisas.
Or, perhaps by not calling it Aji de Gallina, it allows the chefs to take liberties with the recipe, such as the use of parmesan cheese shavings, and the lack of egg and olives.
I love Peruvian food, admittedly more than Colombian food, so it was nice to find a decent representation of it here in Medellin, even if they do choose to put their own twists on the traditional ingredients.