Last Wednesday, I was robbed in Medellin while in a taxi heading west on Calle 33 to renew my tourist visa at the DAS office in barrio Belen.
It was 11:20 AM when my taxi came to a halt at a stoplight. We were surrounded by other vehicles. I was sitting in the front passenger seat, with my window was down to catch the breeze.
I noticed a figure with dark pants approaching my window from behind. I’d been playing with my Blackberry, as I often do in taxis when I’m bored. Instinctively, I swung it toward the center of the car, in case the street vendor or beggar tried to snag it.
When I looked back to my right, I was staring at a silver revolver held flush against a man’s stomach, pointing toward the front of the car. I don’t remember if he said anything. Words weren’t necessary.
After hearing countless stories from other people, both foreigners and Colombians, it was my turn to be threatened and robbed in Medellin.
I immediately handed over my Blackberry, and 75,000 pesos ($40) cash in my front right pocket. The thief, thinking there was something more of value still there, reached in the window and started feeling it.
I pulled out my passport, saying “solo pasaporte” in a vain attempt to save it. He hastily grabbed it and went back to the motorbike where his accomplice was waiting. They sped off to the right of us so we couldn’t note the license plate.
The light turned green, and my driver pulled away, not saying a word, or expressing any emotion.
Meanwhile, I was distraught, talking to myself, asking why they took my passport. On some level I knew it could be sold to counterfeiters, but all I could think about was the hassle and cost required to replace it, and my lack of comprehensive travel insurance to help cover the cost of my phone.
Upon arrival at DAS, we explained what happened, the local police were called. The taxi driver reported what he saw, and gave me his business card before departing. I was taken to the new Belen police station, where I filed a report, which would be the documentation I needed to report the loss at the US embassy in Bogotá, as well as explain to DAS at a later date while I (technically) overstayed my tourist visa.
All of the police who helped me were courteous and friendly. They did their part to take down the details, though we all knew the chances of catching the thieves were slim to none.
An official one page report in hand, the police then dropped me off back at my apartment given I had no money to pay for another taxi. One of the officers even wrote down his phone number should I need further assistance.
I’ve been living in Medellin 16 months, and this is the first time I’ve ever been threatened or confronted. I hope by sharing my experience honestly and openly, it does not deter people from visiting this amazing city. At the same time, visitors and residents should not take their safety for granted.
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This post was written by Dave, and brought to you by HBF.
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Wow, that was scary. Your blog has totally changed my idea of Medellin, and I'm sure it's done the same for others, so it's a double shame this should happen to you. I realize that crime happens the world over, but the gun thing is something we, Europeans, still find unusual (happily). One of the reasons we left England over 20 years ago was the crime rate, but over those twenty years it has caught up with these islands too. We shouldn't have to, but I guess we have to accept that it can happen wherever we are. A friend, travelling in Asia, returned home to find her house had been ransacked and her daughter has escaped from an attempted attack by four guys on her own doorstep. We all should be aware these days. Hope you've gotten over it.
It means a lot to know this blog has helped shape your view of Medellin. I'm trying to keep the experience in perspective, given I've spent 16 months living here.
It's true, there's nowhere to hide. I was in Japan this past February and couldn't get over how safe I felt. I had immediately noted the lack of locks on bicycles in Tokyo --- a giant metropolis, so I just imagine smaller cities worry even less about theft.
Of course they then had the huge earthquake, tsunami, and nuclear problems, so even a country that feels seemingly safe from human crime can still face natural disasters.
Reading some more of the comments this morning and others' experiences I wonder what happens if you have nothing worth stealing? Can the criminals still get violent and shoot you anyway because they are cheesed off that you aren't the easy target they assumed?
Hola Linda, that's a scary thought, which is why I always carry at least $20 or $30 worth of cash with me to hopefully satiate a thief. Even $100 cash is not something I'd care about as long as no violence is involved. The only times I tend to hear about violence being used is when the victim resists, whether or not it's on purpose or he/she realizes the other person is armed.
I was robbed in Medellin today!
I'm sorry to hear that Alexander. If you're up for it, maybe you can let us know some details - time of day, location, which neighborhood.
I was robbed September 4th, a Sunday at 1 pm while sitting in my car in the Carlos E Restrepo neighborhood. 2 thugs on a motorcycle, gun in hand, ripped my gold chain off my neck. I've had it! Returning to the States end of this week. El Poblado is not safe either. I love Colombia and its people but I'm tired having to look over my shoulder. I also think it's too polluted here, too much traffic and the drivers are very rude and inconsiderate. The weather is great and the women are hot! Other than that, it can get pretty boring here.
Hey Alexander, sorry to hear about your recent robbery. Glad you got out of the situation safely.
I can relate to your sentiment about being tired of having to look over your shoulder all the time. It can wear on you.
I was robbed by a man who befriended me for over 5 years and he was very patient. One night we went to club and drugged me a very horrible experience. Then two days later was told I had a bill for 880 mil and it I wanted ids and my keys best to pay to avoid problems, basically a extortion plot. This after lossing 400 mil watch ring and more. Going to police today as I am worried this is not the end. Been her over 5 years and leaving too much deception and lies and gringos are only see as a opportuntity for money. I have a love hate relation ship with this place. But the bigger picture is it is not worth living here tons of low lifes every where! I have been robbed 4 times in 5 years here can not take no more. Kind of stuck due to finical reasons right now. I also am very sad and depressed after this lost. I just gotta get out of here this place is beauitful but too many bad people here and I mean "BAD"!!! Only moved here due too low income. I rather be poor in America. The bad out weigh the good by a huge number lets leave it at that!
Colombia is not safe and any one who says other wise is a fool. I understand the risk of living here and accept that. But a s far as gringos living in Colombia year round it is very hard. Gringos are like walking bullseyes for scams, robbery and more endless crimes here in Medellin. Very creative thiefs in Medellin some of the best I have every seen. Light years ahead of street theifs in states. Be safe be smart and always watch you surroundings and trust no one especially people who ask alot of questions. I have been robbed a few times and had enough of Medellin and accept my loses as it comes with the territory when a gringo living in Colombia. If you can not handle being robbed do not live here in Medellin as a close expat gringo friend told me years ago. Be safe always be alert and stay out of bars at night unless you know establishment well. And never go out alone at night partying a heads up for my fellow gingos and gringas! Colombia is a pretty country but as a gringo you have to be extra carefull just keep that in mind at all times.
Like other big cities.. New York, Memphis, Dallas, Rio, Sao Paulo, etc.
Big cities big problems,, like security.
Big city big crime is true but just a word of advice gringos stand out like a bulls eye here! I would recommend a country where you blend in a little better! You guys here in Colombia is like a black man going to a KKK meeting in the USA and wounder why they keep picking at him.
Just something to keep in mind
Thanks Greg, but that's a ridiculous piece of advice. I've been to close to 50 countries in just the last six years, and in the majority of them, I've stuck out like a sore thumb.
China, India, Laos, Rwanda, Bolivia, Ecuador.
That doesn't mean I've been wandering around getting robbed the whole time. After leaving Colombia in August 2011, I spent a year traveling to other parts of South America and was never so much as threatened, let alone robbed again.
And by the way, not all gringos stick out. I've met quite a few foreigners here, from the US, Canada, and Australia for example, that have tanner skin, and more hair on their head then me. I accept that I stick out like a scene from "Where's Waldo" but that's not going to stop me from traveling and living abroad.
Visited in 2008 and thankfully I didn't get robbed. Remember I am 6'3 280 pounds and its a good deterrent. But definitely you need to roll deep in Medellin. Never left without having a group of people around me. I know the language being from Puerto Rico so that helps. My advice is to learn the strret language ASAP. I think in that situation you could have kept your passport if you could have communicated better the importance of it. One piece of advice is that you get one of those travel pouches where you can keep all your docs cash etc. There is no feeling for that since its on your person and not in your pockets. Hang in there bro Medellin is a awesome city. Under better circumstances I would live there instead of San Antonio, TX.
Thanks for the encouragement Michael. In my younger years, I use to wear a money belt, but I find it is too uncomfortable in tropical climates, and especially when I'm wearing jeans or board shorts. I made the switch to just carrying cash in my pockets after visiting Costa Rica in 2005. That's when I started meeting other backpackers who'd been through Latin America and told tales of being robbed multiple times, and stashing cash in their shoes.
I agree that if I spoke better Spanish, I might've been able to better communicate, but considering there was a recent case of a UK man being shot for resisting theft in the same region of the city, in the same manner of theft, maybe it's better I didn't have the words on the tip of my tongue.
One bit of advice I will give also, in regards to passports. Always have at least 3 copies. One in the states, one at where you are staying and maybe one archived in your email so you can email it to yourself and print it. When I say copy I mean the just copy of the first page with you pic and info. This has me concerned as Medellin is one of the places that I am thinking about retiring (there or Uruguay) Anywho. thanks for the info. this has reformed my opinion a tad now. Stay safe, if you are still in Medellin.
Look, the guy from the U.K. wasn't in a good part of Belen, he was far to the west which isn't a good place to be AND it occurred at two in the morning. Driving around in a car, wearing a nice necklace, in a known bad neighborhood at 2 in the morning is asking for trouble.
Dave, why were you texting on you black berry in plain view for everyone to see? I couldn't fathom showing a cell phone of that kind of value in public (especially where I live).
Was the taxi driver on the phone on the way to the D.A.S. before you were robbed? It isn't uncommon for taxi drivers to participate in robberies ("Hey, this guy in my cab has a very expensive cell phone, meet me here at this rendezvous point").
The thing that surprises me is that it happened on a busy street early in the day. Nevertheless, it doesn't happen very often so stay positive and realize that you aren't in the hospital or worse dead. You have learned a lesson and are a better person as a result.
I've been robbed twice at knife point in two sketchy parts of Medellín (Barrios Iguaná and Buenos Aires). Both times I had at least 40.000 pesos with me. However, the first time I lost 5.000 pesos and the second time I lost 3.000. Why? Because I didn't panic and throw all of my things out of my pockets. The theives saw that I was calm and could potentially do harm to them so they just left with that money. I even told one of them that I needed 2.000 pesos to take a bus across town and so they let me have it (very poliete thieves :)).
We'll talk about this more indepth of Sunday or Monday if you'd like Dave.
Take care
Hey Kevin, I wasn't aware of those additional details about the UK guy, but considering the modus operandi for the theft was exactly the same, I'm not taking any chances with these guys.
The reality is I use my Blackberry for the work I do. Maintaining a social media presence, sharing thoughts and photos from my travels. And yes, you could say I've gotten addicted to using it, even when it's not necessary. I'm hesitant to run out and buy a new one right away like I did last year, but I can't imagine traveling the rest of South America this year without a new smartphone. It's part of my new reality, but hopefully I can be more disciplined about when I use it.
No, I do not recall the taxi driver making any phone calls after picking me up, which is why I have been giving him the benefit of the doubt, though his lack of emotion or commentary after the theft does strike me as odd. Maybe he's been through it before. And he cooperated with DAS and the police, and showed no signs of nervousness while being questioned.
In this case, even when I didn't empty my right pocket (of my passport), the man reached in and started feeling around anyways. Some thieves are going to be more aggressive than others. Clearly this one wasn't satisfied with a $500 phone and $40 cash. Others may have been and left more quickly.
Hi Dave
Sorry to hear that this happened to you I hope you get your passport situation sorted out.
Im traveling to Medellin in early September to stay with friends of a guy I work with over here in Australia. Im glad you wrote this on your blog and not to sugar coat life in Medellin.
Yes people get held up around the world but Im not familiar with gun hold ups as it not common here in Australia to being it illegal and dare I say it a good quality Police force whos communication services + Media, these days is second to none so its very hard for people to get away with such matters here down under. I feel safe everyday I live here in our beautiful country
So I guess hearing your story does scare me a bit ....but in context of you living there for 16 months without incident sums it up. Just one of those things !!!!!
I hope you feel better soon mate
cheers from downunder
Brian
Hola Brian, thanks for your comments and concern, and glad to hear you'll be visiting Medellin.
I'd by lying if I said that the whole aura around the city and country being dangerous aren't part of what drew me here in 2009.
To find they weren't nearly as bad as the dated stereotypes suggested is a big part of why I immediately wanted to spend more time here, and share my experiences on this blog.
My goal isn't to portray Colombia as being 100% safe and problem-free, but rather to show that it is no more dangerous than any other South American country (most of which have a much better reputation for tourism).
Good thread Dave! I've been hearing lots of stories as of late, then again that's nothing out of the ordinary for Medallo. I think if you stay long enough in Colombia I think you'll have a run-in with a criminal, so it is a matter of how bad it's going to be. Obviously like Kevin says there is something to be said about staying out of bad areas.
My experience getting robbed was in Carlos E Resptrepo a middle class neighborhood where I also live. It was 1 in the afternoon on a Saturday abotu 5 months ago. I was entering the barrio on motorcycle when two guys on moto came alongside me and grabbed my bag. I thought they were breaking a fall and were drunk but the guy on the back kept grabbing my bag and then the keys.
When I realized I was being robbed in front of the pizza parlor filled with about 20 people I screamed as loud as I could. This was a bad move because the guy on the back of the motocycle pulled out a gun and pointed it in my face.
Since I was in the barrio and I was driving about 5 mph I decided to let them have the bike but I would make it a little difficult for them. I jumped off the moto and at the same time kicked it into the street. It slid about 6 feet and the guy on the back of the other motorcycle hopped of to get it. However all the commotion I made had brought out a crowd from the pizza parlor, neighbors, and fortunately the guards who patrol Carlos E. The thugs realized they had an audience, they panicked and then got back on the moto and sped off leaving my moto in tact albeit scratched up.
A friend of mine said screaming was a bad move because a lot of time thugs panic and fire, or if they are unsuccessful they will also fire with frustration.
It was funny how in a moment my gut reaction was one of Americano defiance, which is contrary to what all my Colombian friends say, when you are getting robbed just be docile because you never know how dangerous and unpredictable violent criminals can be.
I normally felt safe on moto as I am not stuck in a car or cornered on a bus, but hey even moto on moto crime can happen. Keep your eyes peeled!
Hola Robin, I remember you told me about this after it happened, but thanks for sharing more of the details.
It all happened so fast, I didn't think before I did anything, it was all just intuition and instinct, however I'd already heard so many stories from others, that I'd long been telling myself I would simply acquiesce should it happen to me, and that's what I did.
As your friends say, these guys can be unpredictable, and I'd rather air on the safe side when confronted. Still far too many good times to live for in this life!
Hey Dave sorry to hear about that, glad you're ok.
I got robbed in Bogota in january, they stole my camera without any violence (pickpockets acting on the street in the city center).
I'm going to Rio in july and I'am considering going to Medellin in august, will you be there ? I just got back in Bogota, Colin told me he met you in Medellin.
Aurelien the french blogger
Hola Aurelien, sorry to hear about your robbery in Bogota. I'll be in Medellin until August 8, at which point I'm heading back to NYC for a week, and then straight to Ecuador to see the rest of South America. Hope to end up in Brazil. :)
I'm happy to learn you will go to Ecuador next.
A few years ago I saw 2 men get out of a car and at gunpoint robbed the security guards of a cafe around midnight. I was with a friend in her car and she panic and drove towards the car that was waiting for the other 2. Nothing happen to us. I don't want to deter you from visiting Ecuador, I hope you go to Guayaquil, Salinas, olon, not just Quito. Guayaquil is a beautiful city but in the whole country I will suggest to be extra careful. The thieves like taking the blackberries, iphones, and everything they can. Usually the taxi drivers are on it too. They might text, not necessarily make a call to let the others know. There's also secuestro express and that's when they take you for a ride while robbing you until they are done and then move to the next victim. It's definitely better to give up your things since we don't know if they will panic and shoot.
In my 15 years going back home to visit I've never been robbed but I have lots of friends that have including my 2 younger sisters. One of them was 9months pregnant when she had the secuestro express happened to her. 5 men jumped into her car and her car was already full.
I don't want to scare you, I just remember their incident. Unfortunately, its how things are in my little country now. It doesn't matter at what time or what area. What once was consider safe, its not anymore. You just have to be extra careful and enjoy.
Go to Alban borja mall and buy cotton candy, its the best! Neither the US nor Europe has such a good cotton candy.
Enjoy your travels and stay safe.
Hola Cristina, thanks for reading, and sharing your thoughts. I've also heard stories about the secuestro express, including one Canadian who it happened to in Peru. The idea scares me, but I don't want to let fear alone stop me from seeing otherwise wonderful places.
Been in and out of Colombia ,Venezuela,Mexico ect never had a problem, but i guess he seen your Blackberry and is used to easy prey should have asked if he had bullets for the gun. sorry dude
I was always told to stay away from Choco area of Colombia never Medillen
Hey John, thanks for your comment. Relatively speaking, I think Medellin tends to be safer than either Bogota or Cali, but these things can happen anywhere.
Looking back, I'm just thankful he wasn't pointing the gun directly at me. Maybe it wasn't loaded, but there's no point in taking any chances.
Hi Dave,
It sucks you had to have such experience. I have to say you really need to control yourself showing your blackberry in public like that, it's basically "dando papaya" like we say in Colombia. When I took my gringo husband to visit, he was walking around the street counting money like we do here in the US, openly and without worries.
I warned him not to do that and so did my nephew. Even in the best parts of town you have to be conscious of your surroundings and not making it easy for those who are always on the lookout to steal. I lived most of my life in Colombia and was never robbed at gunpoint, it must have been super scary. I agree with one of the earlier comments, one of my first thoughts reading your story was that the driver was in the deal.
Be safe! and I hope the rest of your stay continues being filled with good experiences. Y no des papaya!!
Thanks Angela, I've heard the "dando papaya" expression before, but since I'd gone the prior 10 months without incident, I guess I just assumed it wasn't drawing unwanted attention. I pushed my luck too far. This is a lesson I'm going to carry with me not just in Colombia, but throughout my travels in Latin America (or anywhere for that matter, though I'd be less concerned in wealthy areas like the US, Canada, western Europe, Japan, etc.
When I told the story to other taxi drivers, they all asked what my driver did. When I responded "nothing" they universally gave me the impression that the driver was in on the deal. That would certainly explain why he didn't say a word, nor expressed any emotion afterward. I just wish I could remember if he made a phone call after I'd gotten in the cab.
Geez, that's unebeilvable. Kudos and such.
You did exactly the right thing Dave down to a T. Imagine how they would have reacted if you only had a couple thousand pesos on you? If you resisted? If you tried to negotiate what you gave away? If after checking you for more you said you had nothing? Giving away everything you had was the smartest move. They had to believe you gave them everything when you handed your passport.
I think the advice and comments above are coming off as a bit cocky. As in you should have done something differently. Or that you could have at least kept your passport. Sure many times you will get away giving up less if you resist. But you might just get unlucky that one time.
No need to defend your actions Dave. You handled yourself better than any of the people in the above anecdotes.
Thanks Jason. At first I didn't hand over my passport just because in my mind I didn't associate it with anything of value, but clearly the guy saw there was something more in my pocket that I wasn't giving up, and wanted to know what it was. Next time I'm traveling with my passport in my sock, or at least my back pocket.
I've already changed the way I ride in taxis, and once I get a new phone, will be much more careful about when I use it in public. I use to think the Colombians who were so careful were all a bit paranoid, but it only takes this kind of thing happening once to change your ways.
Hola: Soy Fernanda Cañas, periodista de Gente de Belén, un periódico local del barrio de propiedad de El Colombiano, y me gustaría contactarme con usted para que me cuente su historia.
Le envío mi número de contacto y mi correo para que hablemos:
Teléfono fijo: 335 94 14.
Celular: 314 666 69 77.