Jacob taking in the view from our balcony in Envigado.

Moving to Medellin was not a decision that I took lightly. Not only did I have to consider my life and how it would change but I also had to consider how the move would impact Jacob, my dog.

I had heard of dogs being quarantined for days, and even weeks, in airports around the world and I did NOT want my dog to have to suffer because of our move. Finding useful information (online or over the phone) about importing a dog into Colombia was one hard task but I managed to get everything together and I was able to bring him along for the ride.

This may seem like a bit much, but here’s everything I did in order to get my dog into Colombia…

1. Call the airline you’re traveling with and reserve a spot for your dog. (Yes, you are making reservations for your dog!)

Do this whether your dog will be traveling in the cabin with you or down below with the luggage. This should be done ASAP because airlines only allow a specific number of pets on each flight and the spots fill up quickly.

2. Check the USDA website for any new information regarding pet travel.

The specific page dealing with dogs traveling into Colombia was last updated in September of 1994 but the requirements have not changed. I followed the directions and I had no problems getting Jacob into the country.

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/regulations/vs/iregs/animals/downloads/co_cn.pdf

Jacob all packed and ready to go!

3. Make an appointment with your dog’s veterinarian no more than 10 days prior to travel.

During this visit your veterinarian should fill out an International Health Certificate for your dog. Double check all of the information to be sure that everything has been filled out correctly. (My veterinarian wrote down that my dog was a Chihuahua but he’s a Miniature Pinscher… so proofread!) At this time the veterinarian might give your dog any other vaccinations that he/she might need in order to get into Colombia.

If you have an overly hyperactive dog, like I do, you might want to ask your veterinarian for some calming aids. My dog slept for hours on the airplane thanks to the calming aids!!!!

4. Send the International Health Certificate to the Veterinarian Services Area Office to get endorsed.

Each state has one of these offices and you can find your states by following this link:

http://www.aphis.usda.gov/animal_health/area_offices/

Keep in mind that the health certificate should be endorsed in the state in which you are traveling from, not necessarily the state in which you live (I lived in New Jersey but I left from New York, so I got Jacob’s health certificate endorsed in NY). You will have to send a check/ money order with your dog’s health certificate in order for them to process your request. I think it costs about $35 USD. You might also want to include a pre-paid, over night, self addressed envelope so that the office sends the certificate back ASAP. You will only have about a week before traveling to send this paperwork out and get it back!

5. On the day of the trip:

• Bring the endorsed International Health Certificate (I also brought all of Jacob’s veterinary records and the original copy of his rabies shot)
• You will have to pay a fee to the airline for traveling with your dog whether he/she is traveling in the cabin or down below (Avianca charged me $100 USD)
• DON’T FORGET THE CALMING AIDS!!!!

Once you arrive in Colombia you will have to stop in at the DAS office before leaving the airport with your dog. They will make sure that all of your dog’s paperwork is in check and they will also charge you 50,000 COP (which I was not aware of).

Medellin is such a dog friendly place, so if you plan on visiting or moving consider bringing your dog with you. I’ve been to many side-walk restaurants to eat, parks, and shopping centers and they have always welcomed Jacob. I hope I didn’t miss any information here. Be sure to call your airline and the closest Colombian embassy for any new information!

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This post was written by Ana Rodriguez.

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Approaching EOH Airport

The first time I went to Medellin I took the bus from Pereira. Although bus travel is the cheapest and most available form of travel across Colombia, I was ready to get out and hike home after a few hours on the bus because I was so sick. After almost seven hours of altitude and motion-induced vomiting, I knew I was going to have to find another way home.

Luckily, Colombia has a number of low-cost airlines, and many have flights from Medellin. Although I love Avianca, Colombia’s main airline, it tends to be expensive unless there is a sale or discount on a certain period of travel. (I’ve flown round-trip to Bogota for less than $100 on Avianca, but sometimes those flights are around $300!)

For domestic travel in Colombia, I love Aires. The first time I flew with them was after that bus trip to Medellin. My flight to Pereira from Medellin lasted 30 minutes, was only $60, and allowed me to spend an extra day enjoying my favorite Colombian city. I’ve been addicted ever since. Aires offers incredibly affordable flights (I recently flew round-trip to Medellin and paid $118 for two people) and flies into places that aren’t always served by other major airlines.

Enrique Olaya Herrera Airport

The best part about flying with Aires, however, is the Olaya Herrera Airport.

Although not all domestic flights leave from the Enrique Olaya Herrera Airport (airport code EOH), if you find one that does, definitely consider it first. It was recently remodeled for the South American Games, and it looks better than it has in years.

More importantly, it is a convenient, 5 minute, 5,000 peso taxi ride from the Poblado Metro Station and it is also located next to the South Bus Terminal. In comparison, the international airport in Medellin, Jose Maria Cordova, is actually in Rionegro. It takes at least 30 minutes to get to the airport, and a taxi to or from the Rionegro airport starts at 50,000 pesos (around $25) from Poblado. It’s a huge price difference; if you are flying round-trip it could save you $40 easily!

Aires, Avianca, Copa Airlines, Satena, and EasyFly all offer flights to and from EOH. Destinations from Medellin include Cali, Pereira, Bucaramanga, Barranquilla, and of course, Bogota. Bogota’s domestic and international terminals are virtually next to each other, and from Bogota it’s easy to get an international or domestic flight to somewhere more exotic, like Leticia.

To find cheap flights, check airline websites and use EOH for your flight code if you want to fly in or out of Enrique Olaya Herrera Airport.

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Written by Melody Stratton

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Walking across the tarmac at Medellin's international airport.

As a follow-up to Kristen’s earlier post about transportation in Colombia, I thought I would share some helpful tips about flying within the country. Many visitors to Colombia are surprised by how check-in and security work at Colombian airports. The process is simple, but is quite different from flying in the U.S.A. Here are a few tips about what to expect.

First of all, no matter where you are flying in Colombia, it is always a good idea to arrive at least 2 hours early before a domestic flight and 3 hours early for an international flight. If you are flying domestically and you have a Colombian ID, you will not need your passport. If you do not have a Colombian ID, you will definitely need a passport.

Once you arrive at the airport, you may have to wait to check-in, especially for international flights, because airlines only allow check-in at certain times. Arrive early anyway—a line often forms near the check-in desk before it opens, and you definitely want to be one of the first people in line. After check-in, you may need to pay an airport tax if you are flying internationally. Be prepared to pay it in cash.

A long line will form even before the check-in desk opens. (MDE Airport)

The most important difference between flying in Colombia and the States is when you are allowed to go through security. In the United States and Europe, we usually go through security immediately after we check in for a flight. After security there are restaurants and food vendors, and we may wait for two hours (or more if the flight is delayed) after we pass through security. This is not how it works in Colombia.

Instead, after you have checked in you will have to wait until your flight is allowed to enter the “waiting room.” Watch electronic boards, listen to announcements, and ask the staff to find out when your flight is allowed to enter the waiting room. (It is usually 1 hour to 30 minutes before, but may be earlier if it is an international flight.)

Some small airlines use propeller planes, which can fly closer to the mountains and offer great views.

You go through security when you enter the waiting room. You will not be allowed to go through security before your flight is allowed to enter the waiting room. Most airports do not have food available in the waiting rooms, but there are always bathrooms. When it is time to board your flight, someone will make an announcement in the waiting room and will then lead you to the plane. Don’t be surprised if you are lead across the tarmac—only a few airports in Colombia have walkways connecting the plane to the gate.

Finally, if you are flying within Colombia, make sure you keep the stickers for your luggage. Baggage claims are secure in Colombia, and only people who have just disembarked from a flight will be allowed to enter. You will need to show your baggage sticker (which you receive at the check-in gate) to take your luggage out of the airport.

In addition, if you are flying into Colombia from an international destination, a customs officer may search your bags. After you have shown your luggage sticker and someone has checked your bags (if necessary) you are free to go. If someone is waiting for you, it will be just after baggage claim.

Happy flying!

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Written by Melody Stratton

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Front row seat on the bus from Barranquilla to Cartagena

One thing which can’t be avoided when traveling round Colombia is the Colombian bus. Before coming here I had done the majority of my bus travel in Argentina where the buses are truly the cream of the crop and the humble backpacker is spoiled for quality and choice. Colombia (like most of South America to be fair) does not have this quality, so as I was sitting on a bus from Cali to Bogota at 3am this morning, unable to sleep, I came up with the following ideas which could hopefully make things go a little more smoothly.

1. Choose the right company

The moment you walk into most Colombian bus terminals with your backpack on, you are mobbed by a veritable horde of men shouting potential destinations at you. There is a great temptation to go with the first voice you hear shouting out the place you’re are traveling to and buy from him (or the booth he takes you to). Don’t do this.

The best company in Colombia is called Bolivariano and where possible, I recommend buying tickets from them (and only them) directly. This is based on many conversations with Colombians who all travel Bolivariano, for 3 main reasons. Firstly they have a modern bus fleet, secondly they only stop to pick up and drop off in terminals, not on the side of the road, and lastly each bus has 2 drivers who swap every 4 hours.

The downside of Bolivariano is that they are not cheap; I’m not sure if they are the most expensive but they can cost a lot. In addition, they don’t operate on the Caribbean Coast, so any trip to Santa Marta or Cartagena cannot be done with them. Alternatives for that area are Brasilia or Bucaramanga-based Copetran.

2. Wrap up warm

Colombian buses are COLD. Whatever the outside temperature, the air-con inside the bus will be set at approximately -15C. Always, take a long sleeve top, (or for a night trip) blanket or sleeping bag if you have them. You won’t look stupid, all the locals do it.

3. Food and drink

You won’t get fed on a bus in Colombia. On a daytime journey you’ll stop once at an expensive and usually poor quality restaurant where you can eat something warm or buy junk from a kiosk. Neither are particularly satisfying, so bring food & drink, stuff you like!

4. Choose your spot

Here’s a tip for night buses – don’t sit too near the front if you can help it. I learned this the hard way last night. Once the film has finished (which will probably have either Vin Diesel or Jason Statham in it), all may be quiet in the body of the bus, but the drivers will be up front grooving to the latest in Colombian beats. And you’ll be able to hear it too!

On the other hand, I’ve heard of people avoiding the back because of the proximity to the toilets.  Personally, this has never been a problem for me, but whatever works for you.

5. Be safe

Security is obviously an important subject, especially in Colombia, and it never hurts to be too cautious. I would recommend never putting anything of value in your backpack that goes in the hold, never put your hand luggage in the overhead rack (especially at night), and take your hand luggage with you at food stops. Apart from that, the usual common sense tips apply, as always when traveling.

6. Enjoy the ride

Despite being too tall to comfortably sit in a seat for 9 hours, the bad food stops, the insane drivers, ridiculous overtaking maneuvers, the non-stop vallenato music and the freezing temperatures, after 20 or so journeys in Colombia I still don’t dread it.  I simply love sitting by the window watching the world go by. To me, this is traveling. At every moment you a getting a glimpse of Colombian life and it’s fascinating. Where else would you get to see 2 men and 2 (dead) pigs on a motorbike?

When talking about the overall bus experience, people often say to me, “Oh, you should look at flights, they’re not much more expensive than the bus!” I always tell them that I’d never thought of that and that I’ll look into it next time, but in fact, I wouldn’t have it any other way. I just love watching the world go by too much to do anything different.

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Written by Jonathan Evans

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Buses

• For most Colombians, buses are the primary means to travel between cities.  Buses are safe, cost-efficient and sometimes can even be taken overnight to save you money on a hotel. Depending on how far you are going and the terrain, you may be in a small buseta, or for longer journeys, a large coach bus.  Unless you are traveling during a busy time like Christmas or Semana Santa (Holy Week) tickets can always be bought the day of travel right at the bus station. At this time you can usually see the bus you will be riding in, so if that is important to you, feel free to ask for a view!
• One thing to keep in mind is that the bus terminal can be a bit intimidating and sometimes a welcome spot for crime,  just because there are so many people coming and going.  Make sure to watch your things closely and try to have a plan in place when you arrive at the station.  Most terminals in Colombia, including Bogota, Cali, and Medellin have websites where you can plan out your trip in advance, so that you know which bus company window to go to and about how much the ticket will cost.
• If silence (or sleep) is essential to you when traveling on the bus, I definitely recommend an ipod or earplugs for the journey.  There is always the possibility of noisy children around you, and also, most Colombian bus drivers will play movies dubbed in Spanish at extremely high volume.

Planes

• Planes are certainly the fastest way to travel, and if you have limited time this is definitely the way to go!  Sometimes you can even find super cheap one-way deals, so if time is a concern, you could even consider riding the bus for one leg of your journey and flying for the other. This is a great way to see some countryside without spending hours upon hours in a bus. I recently did this on a journey from Cali to Pasto and it worked out perfectly! I saw lots of the countryside on the way there, but after the nine hour bus ride, I was more than happy to have a two hour flight home.
• For a long time the Colombian airline Avianca held a monopoly on air travel.  However, now both Aero Republica and newcomer Aires are expanding their routes around the country and a very healthy competition is taking place.  Avianca is still the best bet if you are interested in all the amenities of a large airline, such as good service, larger planes, more routes, and a more user-friendly website. However, that being said, since I am a teacher on a teacher’s salary, the majority of my domestic flights have all been with Aires.  They always have the best prices and with the exception of some minor delays, I have not had any issues with my flights.


National routes on Aires.

• One difficult thing about flights in Colombia is that finding the cheapest flight requires some patience. I have found some success using the website Despegar.com. Basically this site is sort of the Expedia of Latin America, as it allows you to compare the times and prices of various airlines in one convenient location.
• A word of advice on flying from Colombia to the United States… These flights can often put a dent in your budget, however there are options! All three of the above mentioned airlines fly to the United States, so they are worth exploring, rather than using an American based airline. Furthermore, Aires has just opened direct routes from Cali and Bogota to Fort Lauderdale, Florida.  When I fly home for a visit this summer I have opted to take the direct flight from Cali to Fort Lauderdale, and then I bought a domestic flight from Fort Lauderdale to Minnesota. According to what Expedia and other websites quoted me, this will end up saving me about $200 in the long run, so if you have the time and patience to fly two separate airlines, it is definitely worth exploring.
• For more information on finding cheap airfare around the country, I recommend following Aires, Avianca, and Aero Republica on Twitter, as they all usually send out tweets with ongoing or upcoming deals and news.

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Written by Kristin Radermacher

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Welcome to my morning commute in Cali. Although, let’s be honest, from what I have observed, this could just as easily describe any Latin American city.  To the inexperienced or oblivious spectator, the road seems nothing short of mass chaos.  Then you look closer. You see the organization amongst the streaming lines of yellow taxis; you start to understand the situation.

They replace fist fights and road rage with excessive horn honking, which while annoying, is actually pretty harmless overall. The street performers, newspaper salespeople and street vendors always seem to keep just out of the way of traffic. The bus drivers are extremely vigilant as they are constantly on the look out for pedestrians, motorcyclists and other vehicles.

The transportation situation on the road is actually pretty well designed for easy travel within cities. Here are some of the basics to consider for transportation in Colombian cities.

A typical Colombian taxi

Taxis

• Every city in Colombia has a taxi service, usually several in larger cities.  Taxis here are the traditional yellow color and the company number is also usually printed along the side of the car. Most follow a single digit pattern, so they are easy to remember. (For example one taxi company is Cali is “the fours”, phone number 444-4444)
• While you can certainly hail a taxi from the street, calling is definitely preferable and much safer.  Most restaurants, bars, shopping malls, and grocery stores have a secure taxi location or are more than happy to call you a taxi if you ask for one. In my experience, hailing a cab is usually safer if you are in a group and there is not another option.
• The minimum for a taxi ride here in Cali is $3,600 pesos or about $2 USD. As in other places, the taxi driver will usually charge a bit extra late at night, on Sunday or on a holiday. Taxis definitely are not the cheapest way to travel, so find a friend to split it with!
• Drivers have definitely tried to scam me by taking a longer route (thus making the ride cost more) or by assuming I do not know enough Spanish to argue about a fare.  However, in eight months I have been irritated by less than five drivers, which is a great success rate, so overall this is a great form of transportation.
• Taxis are definitely the safest travel option if you are going to an obscure location or traveling late at night.
• My best advice: Write down the address of your destination – this will probably save your butt when your driver doesn’t understand your Spanish, doesn’t recognize the address, or he/she needs to find an alternate route.

Personal Vehicles

• My roommate recently purchased a car in Cali in order to allow her more freedom for transportation and travel. While a personal vehicle is definitely convenient, I would never consider this option here in Colombia…even renting a car seems like a hassle.
• All licenses, permits and repairs must be dealt with in Spanish, my second language, and a language for which I do not have an extensive knowledge of “car vocabulary.”
• Pot holes run rampant in Colombia and roads are not fixed with nearly the accuracy of other countries, so navigation around the city can sometimes be difficult.
• Most roads connecting Colombian cities are single lane, and thus any road trip is filled with the stress of being stuck between slow moving buses and faster than lightning motorcycles.
• My best advice: Stick to public transportation.

Bogota's TransMileno bus

Public Transportation

• The three major cities in Colombia (Bogota, Cali, Medellin) have mass transit systems similar to those in Europe and the United States.
• Bogota’s system is called the TranMileno and is essentially a system of bright red buses disguised as a subway. Buses have their own lanes to keep them traffic free, and self-contained stations keep connections on and off the buses fast, easy and safe. A one-way ticket on the TransMileno is $1,600 pesos or $0.75 USD.  Individual trips can be bought or you can put a larger sum of money on a disposable card so as not to have to wait in line to pay each time. Hardest thing about the TransMilenio? The routes! Maybe its just because I have never lived in a big city, but it definitely took me a few trial and errors to figure out. My best advice: The single digit buses stop at every station, while many of the double digit routes only stop at select stops and operate more as express buses. I later discovered you can actually plan your route online, so they may avoid future issues in my Bogota adventures.


Main MIO line in Cali - T31.

• Cali has the MIO, which is almost an exact replica of the TransMileno system. Projecting the slogan, “El Mio es Tuyo” (The MIO is yours), this fancy air-conditioned bus network is getting better everyday. In December 2009, ten new routes were added and the buses can now take you to virtually every part of this elongated city. The principal routes run the length of Calle 5 (La Quinta) and then circle about El Centro, the downtown area. Express buses have the same route number as their standard counterparts, but are labeled with an E followed by the route number. (Definitely easier than Bogota’s system! Score one for Cali.) Ticket prices are also $1,500 pesos for one-way.


Overlooking Medellin from the MetroCable.

• Medellin features the fancy Metro, which Holly wrote about in August 2009. At the time of my visit ticket prices were $1,400 but I believe they also have student and senior citizen discount prices. Opened in 1995, the Metro in Medellin is the only rail line in Colombia. Trains run on ground level for the most part, except in the city center near Botero Plaza, the Jardin Botanical and the University where tracks are elevated. The Metro features a special division called the MetroCable which branches from the main line of the Metro and runs a continuous string of cable cars along the mountainside.  The MetroCable provides stunning views of the city and also ensures access from the poorer hillside neighborhoods to the central downtown area.

As someone who loves to get around a city and explore, I have been pleasantly surprised by the extensive and reasonably priced systems in place here. Travel is definitely affordable in Colombian cities – check back next time when I talk about travel from city to city!

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Written by Kristin Radermacher

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Gatwick Airport Parking

Every frequent traveler knows that cab rides to the airport can be expensive and costs add up fast. For business travelers, especially cheap airport parking is essential. For short trips, parking at the airport is often the most affordable option.

Gatwick Airport is located just outside London and is one of the busiest airports in Europe and indeed the world, with millions of passengers traveling through a year. If you park in the regular airport parking at Gatwick you can pay as much as £13 a day, if you are away for a week those fees add up quickly and easily make cabs a cheaper option. This is where Holiday extras comes in.

Holiday Extras is a UK based company that has been serving the travel community for over 25 years. They arrange travel insurance, airport parking and other travel related services for over 5 million travelers annually.  Holiday Extras offers affordable and convenient Gatwick parking services as well as several premium add-ons.
Holiday Extras makes booking your parking painless and easy to understand with charts displaying various prices based on what parking lot and additional services. Valet parking is offered free of charge, or if you prefer you can park yourself and keep your keys.

For those travelers who want the greatest amount of convenience, Holiday Extras offers a meet and greet service for a small additional cost. With this service your will simply meet your driver at the airport to drop off your keys, while you are away your vehicle will be stored in a secure compound, and when you return you will receive the keys to your vehicle at a prearranged location at the airport. This eliminates the need to travel to the parkade to claim your vehicle, offering most pain-free travel experience.

Being that Gatwick is one of the busiest airports in Europe, there is certainly a lot of competition for parking, and as such Holiday extras offers a price guarantee, if you can find a cheaper price, your parking with Holiday Extras will be free of charge.

Parking with Holiday Extras can be booked either online or on the phone, making Holiday Extras the most convenient option for Gatwick parking.

If you’re traveling out of London via Gatwick Airport than Holiday makes your trip that much easier with their excellent services. They offer a bevy of options to fulfill your needs, whatever they might be. You can rest easy knowing that you are receiving the cheapest service and your car is safe in their secure lots.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1RtpsFaz78

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Leaving

So, after finding all of the correct offices, getting my stamp out of Colombia and into Venezuela, and having a super relaxing lunch, it was time to finish the process.

The stamp out of Venezuela was easy, but interesting.  To receive a stamp out of Venezuela you must pay 55,000 VBF.  I went to the office, filled out the same paper I had to get the stamp in, and then had to go buy a postage stamp type thing from across the street.  I turned those in with my passport, told them I was going back to Colombia, and that was it.  No wait and very little fuss.  I did get a little comment from the lady at the desk.  She said, “Divertirse en Colombia.”  (Have fun in Colombia.)  In the cutest little snide tone.

JD and I then returned across the border for one last time.  This time we stopped and took a few pictures and acted just a little silly.  We were so glad it was all almost over.

I went into the DAS office for the last time, and asked for a stamp back in.  JD and I decided it would be better for me to not have a translator because we didn’t want to have to get into deep details.  They sure did ask a lot of questions.  the guy at DAS was curious why I would want more time in Colombia.  He wanted to know exactly what I was up to and why I needed so much time.

JD was excited to cross the bridge for the last time. I love the goats underneath.

I shrugged it all off by explaining that I have friends in Medellin, and I really love it here.  Eventually he got frustrated and gave me another 60 days…with two underlines under the number!  Finally, I had it all completed.

Our next task was to get back to Cucuta.  We hopped on a local bus and headed on the 20 minute ride back.  During the ride we saw a lot of really interesting people on the bus, and because we were speaking English we got a ton of interested looks.  It was all super fun.

Back in Cucuta, we bought tickets for the ride home.  These tickets were even a little cheaper, but it seemed like there were more stops.  One place we stopped for a few minutes in was Pamplona.  It was a super cute town, and JD said that there are a few Universities there.  If I had the time I would have stayed for a few days there, because it was amazing.  If you are every traveling that way, give that town a night or two.

We finally got home to Medellin Tuesday morning, and all seemed right with the world again.  It was a crazy bus journey, but well worth another two months in Medellin.

This boy was so fascinated by our English.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Eating...Waiting for the bus.

So, I needed to leave the country since my tourist visa was up.  Venezuela was the closest and cheapest option, and that’s where I decided to go.

With my limited Spanish I knew that I would need some major help for this trip.  I recruited my friend JD for the trip, and he was kind enough to leave his store for a day just to make the trip with me.

We met at the Parque Barrio Metro Station at 5:30 on Sunday evening, and then made our way to the North Bus Terminal that is connected to the Caribe Metro Station.

At the bus station we found a company with good buses that was leaving at a time we wanted. JD negotiated the price, and we paid 80,000 COP each for our tickets.  With the bus not leaving until 7:30PM we found a place to eat and relax as we waited for the departure.

Once on the bus, I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to sleep well, but I did bring some rum just in case.  Having the bus only about half full was nice as well.

Sleeping with my teddy bear. He was the most useful thing I brought!

I knew it was going to be an interesting drive when the bus driver started talking.  All I picked up from the driver’s speech was something along the lines of, “Normally, we would show a Jackie Chan movie…but that has so much violence, sex, and drugs…”  After that I was pretty lost, but he sure was animated about what he was saying.

It turned out that the driver was a super religious man and decided to show Fireproof, a Christian movie, instead of the normal movie.  I had not seen it, but heard a lot about the movie, and honestly wasn’t super excited about it.  Good for me that it was easy to not get involved with it, since it was in Spanish.

The bus was completely freezing the entire time, and I was so glad that not only did I bring sweats, but I also had a blanket and a friend to keep warm with.  I really wished that I had warmer socks, though, because my feet were so cold the entire time.

After a few hours talking with JD we both drifted off to sleep.  The bus stopped a few times for dinner time and at the Bucaramanga bus terminal for many passenger to get off and to pick up a few more people.  At one of those stops JD said that he was excited for the sunrise because we would be at a very beautiful place to watch it.

I woke up right at sunrise, and the view was absolutely amazing.  I tried to get JD to watch it with me through the crazy fogged up window, but he was out.  So I watched for a while and drifted back asleep.

Around 10:00AM we arrived in Cucuta.  We went to the tiny restaurant and had a nice, typical breakfast.  All was calm, an we were happy to be off the bus.

Somewhere near(ish) the border. "Sunrise, and your brown eyes..."-Snowed In, Broke City

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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From an Island in Guatape

On a beautiful Saturday morning, I headed over to the north bus terminal to meet a group of friends and spend the day in Guatape.

The north bus terminal is practically attached to the Caribe metro station.  Once inside I was slightly overwhelmed with the amount of people and destinations.  I was really glad to have my friends there.  The bus ride out was 8,500 COP.  My friends tried to get me to get the ticket by myself, but with my extremely limited Spanish, there were questions I didn’t understand.

We had a really nice bus ride, even though on the way we were stopped several times.  Once was for a cycling marathon, and we were stopped for nearly twenty minutes to let them pass safely.  We were also stopped and searched at one check station.  They checked our bags and patted down the guys.  I’ve seen done at several places in and around Medellin, so I wasn’t bothered.  There was one American on the bus that was slightly frustrated to be searched.

The bus dropped us off at the base of a hill, and we walked up to the base of El Peñol.  From the bottom, I could see that, while it may be suitable to Base jump from, it would be a pretty sketchy jump.  It’s pretty low, and it’s so rounded at the top that it’s impossible to get to the edge without climbing gear or committing to jump.  I might have a look at it again after I get some jumps in the city.

At the base, there were the typical vendors I’ve come to expect at the tourist sites of Medellin.  For 6,000 COP we accessed the stairs to the top of El Peñol.  The climb was super easy, and the view at the top was amazing.  I even challenged a few people to a race, but the stairs were too uneven for it to be safe.

We then took a bus to the town of Guatape, and we spent time at the shore.  It reminded me of the south shore of Lake Tahoe in California, with all of its sidewalk restaurants and water activities.  After eating lunch, we decided to buy some beer, and take a boat to one of the islands.  The island was my favorite part.  It was very small and relaxing.

We paid 11,000 COP for the bus ride back, and while we were waiting for our bus, we ate some arepas, empanadas, and palos de queso from some street vendors.  It was the perfect food after a long day of drinking in the sun.

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While I was staying at Casa Kiwi Hostel, I would talk to lots of travelers making their way throughout Latin America, including a few who had taken the sailing approach to reaching Colombia from Panama.  I remember enough feedback about sea-sickness to question whether I really would want to set sail for 3-4 days, but my adventurous side still beats out my wobbly stomach for now.

I’d love to hear from anyone who has sailed between these two countries.  What was your experience?  Would you recommend it?  And any tips for those planning to make the journey?

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Park and planetarium near Universidad metro station

This is truly my first time traveling outside of the United States, so I’m noticing quite a few things that are different to me.  These things are definitely not bad, and mostly entertaining.

The most fun, definitely, is: Most drinks are sold in bags.

You can find water, juice, and milk sold in bags.  Actually, I haven’t found milk sold any other way.  Other things like mustard, mayonnaise, and jam are sold in paper containers with twist off lids.  Kind of like the material juice boxes are made of.

Most people around here don’t wear wedding bands.

I complained about this once to another gringo, and he made fun of me because the only reason I didn’t like it is because I didn’t know who I could hit on.  (He was right.)  I was also told that there is no such thing as a single Colombian woman.  Meaning that most women find their husband/boyfriend while in school.  I have yet to have much experience with any of this, but I will say that the two Colombian girls that I know are definitely single.

The guys are not that bad, and the women aren’t that hot.

I was told by several guys that I was going to be at a disadvantage in Colombia, because there are so many beautiful women, and there aren’t any hot guys.  Honestly, I was expecting to see a bunch of “12′s” (on a scale of 1-10 of hotness) when it came to women.  There are definitely a lot more “8′s” and “9′s” than in the US, but few of the women are tipping the scales.  The average attractiveness for men seems very similar to those in the US, other than most of the men are a bit shorter.

The people here are really nice.

The taxi drivers have almost always been great to me.  Most even help me to learn a little Spanish.  (Big Tip:  If you don’t speak Spanish, have the address of where you want to go written down!  Whether you’re taking a taxi, a bus, or the Metro, you will always be grateful you have it.)

The people here are amazingly nice.

The best example was when I was going to meet someone at 8pm.  He told me to take a bus, and gave me generally crappy directions, but I knew the area of town alright, and I figured I wouldn’t have a problem.  I ended up at the end of the line with no one that could speak English, no number to call, and no actual address.  Everyone at the bus station tried to help me.  One guy finally called his daughter that spoke English, and she came with her boyfriend to help me out.  They figured out where they thought I was supposed to go and then drove me around until everything was settled.  The only thing they would let me get them was a beer.

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My favorite view from Maira's apartment

I spent my last morning in Medellin recovering from my last night in Medellin.  I had purposefully booked a 3 pm flight to Bogota on Avianca so I wouldn’t have to rush.  While it meant spending a night in Bogota, I also figured it’d break up the traveling and give me a chance to meet an American couple who also keep a travel blog, I Should Log Off.

My pack

I had already packed my belongings, which amounted to little more than when I arrived – some new clothes, the HP laptop Allen helped me buy, and a cheap carry-on bag.  I left behind a few articles of clothes I’d hoped Maira could give away, a set of sheets, a bunch of throw pillows, and a few kitchen items she can hopefully make good use of.

Apartment bedroom

I caught a taxi for the 50-minute drive to the airport.  It was a typically beautiful day, and I could feel the air temperature become noticeably cooler as we ascended out of the valley, and up in elevation about 600 meters.  It’s hard to get quality photos from a speeding taxi, but that has never stopped me from trying.

Leaving the Medellin valley behind

And then before I knew it, we were at Jose Maria Cordova International Airport.  It seemed just as small and provincial as I remembered.  I’d flown into the airport twice before from Bogota – once when I first arrived, and the second time on my way back from Carnaval in Barranquilla.  It was my first time departing from it though.  I picked up a small souvenir “Pueblito Paisa” plate and easily made my way through security.

You can read more about the rest of my journey home on my around the world travel blog, GoBackpacking:

Last Morning in Medellin

Bogota Travel Blogger Meetup

Making My Way Back Home

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The metro has also proven a convenient place to meet with friends.  The stations are minimal, and meeting in the station is by far the easiest directions I have been given yet.

Universidad metro station

The buses are about 1,200 COP.  They go through the neighborhoods as well as to different areas of the city.  They stop more often, but you will be closer to your destination.  The buses are more complicated than the Metro due to the frequent stops.  The buses are extremely well labeled; with each area having its own color scheme.  I’ve had no problem jumping on a bus to the next neighborhood, and they’re much less expensive than a Taxi.

There are Metro-buses that go to and from the Metro in each neighborhood.  You can buy combination tickets for 2,000 COP.  That way you get the speed of the Metro with the convince of ending up in the right neighborhood.

Taxis are great for when you don’t know the city, you need to be in a specific place, and don’t speak Spanish.  Just have your destination written down and give it to the driver.  I haven’t found out how they figure fairs.  I’ve never seen a meter, but most rides have been under 10,000 COP I’ve hailed every taxi I’ve taken so far, instead of calling.  Usually I’m with a group for safety, but I haven’t felt uncomfortable getting one myself either.  I’ve found it very difficult to hail a taxi during the day, because most people will call for them.  The best place is near a bus stop.

The Metro and most buses stop running at night, so it is much easier (and more common) to find a taxi at night.  Sharing a taxi is a great way to get around with a group.

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Happy Colombian kids

Clint noticed the adults getting off, so we did too, as there was now an effort underway to push the bus.  It was on a flat to slight decline, but despite our efforts, it wouldn’t budge.  A guy was under the rear axle between attempts, fiddling around trying to fix the problem.  Meanwhile, Clint was being accosted by the kids from the bus.  I was about to give up home, and suggest we take the next bus headed in our direction, when ours was suddenly rolling along again with the help of all the guys.

We all jumped on, and motored ahead.  In the back of the bus, the kids were still super excited.  Their energy was endearing, and we both took out our cameras to get some photos.  Another ten minutes or so, and they shook our hands and left the bus with goodbyes and waves from the side of the street.

How many guys does it take to push start a bus?

As we continued, an teenage guy seated in front of me picked up where we left off while the bus was broken down, in English.  He was talking positively of Medellin and Colombia, in particular the beautiful women (as is often the case!).  He said he likes to talk this way about his country whenever he meets foreigners in the hopes that word will get out to the rest of the world that the vast majority of Colombian people are good.  It is a refrain I have heard over and over again, and this blog is my effort to help spread the word, even if it means a continued increase in tourism, and the inevitable changes such a trend will bring (both good and bad).

www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JkOnXKoyGg

The ride concluded at the northern bus station, where we transferred to the metro.  A few stops into the ride, an older woman who was seated struck up a conversation with me.  The line of questions was comically direct.  Where am I from?  (USA).  How long am I in Medellin?  (2.5 months)  Am I married?  (no).  By then, it was clear she wanted to return home with me!  The Colombians around us, along with Martin and Clint, were snickering at this exchange.  Unfortunately for the woman, complimenting my blue eyes was not enough.

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Metro Cable Car (north)

I remember enjoying the first metro cable car ride I took in Medellin, so I finally struck off months later to check out the second one farther north in the city.  It was a typically beautiful day and I got some great photos.  Reaching the cable cars is incredibly easy and convenient - simply look at any of the well-designed maps along the metro lines.

Unlike the other cable car, this one’s path and terminus seemed to have received more investment in terms of beautifying the neighborhoods, or at least the sidewalks, streets, and often imposingly steep staircases.

A water fountain keeps kids cool

After riding up the mountainside, I disembarked, leaving my young Colombian co-passengers to return back to the train without me (the cheap approach).  I walked down to a viewpoint under the cable car, passing food vendors and little shops.

Biblioteca Espana

I headed for Biblioteca Espana.  The building’s dark black profile stands in stark contrast to the pretty blue skies filled with white puffy clouds, and the green mountainsides with their red brick buildings.  The line at the entrance was enough to deter me from going inside though.

Enjoying the view from Biblioteca Espana

I took a few more photos, and as I walked back toward the cable car, lots of little kids were on the loose, playing outside.  I stopped for an ice cream, and watched some older guys stretch in preparation for a semi-indoor soccer match on a concrete playing field.

And then I descended back into the valley and more familiar territory to continue with my day.

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EAFIT's Library

Monday turned out to be another day of progress toward my goal of living and working in Medellin. It started with a good night’s sleep in the room I´m renting. I had a copy of the apartment keys made at a local store, and joined Maira on the local bus to Universidad EAFIT. Typically I avoid buses whether at home or traveling, but my money is waning and the distance is so short it makes little sense to be hailing cabs. The cost is approximately $0.50 each way. At the university, I spent a few hours in the morning, and again later in the afternoon, working on the internet. In between, I met up with Martin at lunch.

He happened to be with his friend Rodrigo, to whom I had submitted my resume and cover letter for a teaching job the prior week. As we stood there talking, Rodrigo actually received a call on his cell phone notifying him of an interview which was set up for me on Thursday afternoon at Politecnico Andino Iberoamericano in central Medellin! Rodrigo suggested we meet up Wednesday at EAFIT to develop a teaching methodology/program for me to present and use at the school (if I am offered and accept) the job. Plus, he is going to join me for the interview, as it sounds like an interpreter will be needed.

As my energy waned in the chilly computer room, I decided to call it a day and boarded a bus back to the apartment. I managed to get off within a block, which I considered a small success. I walked around the neighborhood trying to find the closest grocery store, but ended up getting some food items at a convenience store instead. I also picked up a pair of khaki Ralph Lauren Polo pants ($24) for my job interview at one of the three small outlet stores next to the apartment building. Together with a cheap blue polo shirt I bought at Exito previously, I should look presentable. I think it´d be worthwhile to invest in a cheap pair of shoes too. You only get one chance to make a first impression!

In the evening, I caught up with the American news on CNN and worked on my conversational Spanish with Martin. I find watching movies in Spanish which I have already seen a dozen times in English, such as Along Came Polly and How To Lose A Guy In 10 Days, is a fun way to learn.

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