Luckily for me, and my wallet, I learned via Twitter that he’s playing a show in Medellin Saturday, September 11, 2010.

Indeed, I imagine the 10,000-seat Plaza de Toros La Macarena will be off the hook that night, which is exactly why I bought tickets. I’ll be there along with thousands of screaming girls and their boyfriends, brothers, husbands and dates.

Daddy Yankee is clearly the main draw, however a popular Puerto Rican American salsa singer, Victor Manuelle, is also on the bill. In true Colombian style, attendees will get some salsa mixed with their reggaeton. Other opening acts include Pipe Pelaez, Jutha y Small, and Golpe a Golpe.

Tickets are (still) available at 3 price levels:

• 55,000 pesos ($30) = general admission
• 95,000 pesos ($50) = preferred area (in the middle of the stadium)
• 150,000 pesos ($80) = VIP section (closest to the stage)

Tickets can be purchased online via Ticket Express, or in person at several shops and malls around Medellin.  When purchasing the tickets in person, be sure to bring cash unless you have a Colombian debit or credit card.

Doors open at 6pm, and the show starts at 8pm.

I’ll provide a wrap-up of the event next week, however to avoid any trouble with pickpockets, I’ll probably leave my camera and BlackBerry at home.

If I happen to run into Daddy Yankee himself, you’ll just have to trust me.

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This week, the Medellin international jazz festival is in full swing.  Running from September 2-11, musicians from Italy, Cuba, the United States, Holland, and around Colombia are performing in 6 concerts for the city’s jazz aficionados.

The primary location for the headlining acts is El Club de Jazz del Parque Comercial El Tesoro, with other events taking place on Carrera 70 and in the convention center at Plaza Mayor.  (El Tesoro is a modern shopping mall in the Poblado neighborhood.)

Concert Schedule:

8pm, Thursday, September 2, 2010 – Carrera 70, between Calles 46 and 47 (free)

• Big Band Universidad EAFIT (Colombia)
• The Big Bones (Colombia)

8pm, Saturday, September 4, 2010 – Plaza Mayor (free)

• Ialsax Quartet (Italy)
• Green Monkey (Colombia)

9pm, Wednesday, September 8, 2010 – Club de Jazz Parque Comercial El Tesoro (free w/ticket)

• Holambia (Holland and Colombia)

9pm, Thursday, September 9, 2010 – Club de Jazz Parque Comercial El Tesoro (ticket required)

• Spanish Harlem Orquesta (USA)

9pm, Friday, September 10, 2010 – Club de Jazz Parque Comercial El Tesoro (ticket required)

• Chucho Valdes & Los Afrocuban Messengers (Cuba)

9pm, Saturday, September 11, 2010 – Club de Jazz Parque Comercial El Tesoro (ticket required)

• Poncho Sanchez y Su Orquesta (USA)

For additional information, including ticket prices:

• Facebook: Festival de Jazz Medellin 2010
• Call 316-0987
• E-mail medejazz@une.net.co

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Carlos Gardel Sign in Buenos Aires. Picture by jglsong. Licenced under Creative Commons

One of the nice things about having traveled through most South American countries, and getting to spend big chunks of time in each one is that you start noticing and recognizing similarities between them. In the 18 months since I left Europe I’ve spent the most time in Argentina and Colombia, two countries that culturally are not that close. Colombia has a much more “latin”, Andean feel whereas Argentina, or Buenos Aires at the very least has a very (Southern) European vibe going on.

Medellin however, does have one very direct link to Argentina and this is Carlos Gardel. If you’re not South American, nor have you spent any length of time in Buenos Aires, then you may be forgiven in not knowing who this is.

Simply put, Carlos Gardel is Tango.

Born in the late 1880s (controversy still rages about whether he was born in Argentina, Uruguay or France)  he grew up in the Absato barrio of Buenos Aires and came to prominence in the early 1920s with his rich baritone interpretations of the tango-canción. Throughout the 20s and 30s Gardel was, to put it simply, a superstar. He toured all over South America, New York, Paris, Barcelona, selling thousands of records and appearing in several early Hollywood movies.

Tragically, however this all came to an end in 1935 when he died in a plane crash in Medellin. Popular there at the time, his death cemented the link between the Paisa people and the boy from Abasto, a link that still lives on to this day. Medellin has a few places where you can enjoy the silky smooth sounds of Gardel and even has a Tango Festival. This page, written by two tango fanatics, gives more details of the places to visit in the Tango scene.

So, when the Salsa and Vallenato all get a bit much, slip on your high heels (the ladies too!), head down to your local milonga and pay tribute to the King, Carlos Gardel.

Tango in Black. Picture by zabara_tango. Licenced under Creative Commons.

Written by Jonathan Evans.

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We showed up around 10pm, and we met up with Kelerman, the dance instructor from the gym, and some other friends.  We decided on a bottle of tequila for about 80,000 COP for four of us at the table.  I had never drank much tequila before, but it ended up all right.

The tequila and a sticker from my favorite band.

Soon, I realized that Kelerman had disappeared, but I never got around to asking where he might have gone.  About 15 minutes later, I found out.

Kelerman...the performer!

It turns out that Kelerman was one of the performers for the night.  Once they got on stage, the whole place turned into the most fun dance party I have ever been to.  Most of us were dancers or dance teachers, so our whole group ended up looking like a music video.  We all could just dance well together and pick up on when we were changing rhythms or style.

Kelerman back to normal...dancing the Macarena.

The DJ played a mix of techno, 80′s, and a few new hits.  Most the night was spent with crazy-sexy dancing, tequila shots (sometimes body shots), and a few of us dancing on the tables.

Me and my trainer Hermes. When everyone is a dancer, things can get crazy.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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The live music is also amazing.  It’s traditional and fun.  I had my doubts when I first saw them gather, but my ideas quickly shifted.  The vocalist is amazing, and the band is completely interactive.  You can have one hell of a good time here!

You can find 3 Cordilleras at many different places in the city, and it’s definitely worth a try.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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The truth is, you’re in for an experience unlike any other in Medellin.  Mahalo was once just a house, where the owner and his friends would lounge and enjoy the panoramic view of Envigado.  One night, they had the idea to turn it into a bar…not an unusual idea these days.  Now Mahalo is home to a great little climbing wall, a perfectly balanced pool table, and a dirt track for mountain bikes with jumps and drops that are the best that I have ever seen in Antioquia.  This is where extreme sports enthusiasts find themselves, every day.

In addition to the many rooms, the beautiful porch, and awesome young in-house DJ, there is a fireplace and lounge seating, too.  Oh, and don’t forget the climbing room.  That’s right, an entire room lined with climbing walls…including the ceiling, and a padded floor for safety.  With super cheep drinks and even themed rooms to crash in if you find you’ve had a few too many, Mahalo is simply a cool place.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Thanks to my favorite Colombian Rockstar (and perpetual crush) Felipe, I was able to get a couple tickets without the hassle of calling.  My friend and I got there a little early, but not early enough to get a great seat.  We ended up about halfway in the club directly in front of the door.  Which worked out well, because when Felipe strolled in with the rest  of the band about an hour after the show was supposed to start, I was in the perfect position to get the customary hello kiss.  I think then everyone else stopped wondering what a couple of gringos were doing at a local show.

I had a shot of really nice whiskey there, and then worked on quite a few Pilsens.  The two for one special made the 5,000 COP beer a lot easier to stomach.  After the show, El Blue opened it’s doors for a normal night, and the dancing began.  El Blue is a cool little place, but I think I’ll stick to finding new places in some lesser known parts of the city.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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The Bathroom from My Favorite After Hours Club

I thought I would start of the return with something…real. This is pretty dark compared to next week’s Christmas theme.  This is the ‘nice’ bathroom at my favorite after hours club.  It’s not so much a club than a converted basement apartment, but it is like no other place Colombia. (I’ll bet, anyway.)  This is a place where people do drugs in the corners and have sex in the closets.  It’s in the dirtiest part of the center.  The walls are black with some artwork painted on them, and it is only lit by candles and black light. I could give out the name, but the place is extremely hard to find anyway, as it doesn’t have a sign or anything like that.

Colombians...Should not pour beer.

Just an FYI.  If you’re at all like me, you might want to pour your own.

Sorry these aren’t the best quality.  I don’t like to carry my camera around unless I have my purse, and these were just too interesting to pass up.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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It has free events every night with live music, dancing, theater, and I believe even movies.  If you want a little culture for absolutely no money, this is the place to do it.  The first and second companies from Ballet Folklorico de Antioquia even dance there sometimes.  Just make you sure show up early for the more popular events or you will not get a seat.

My friend Mario and I went to the second company of Ballet Folklorico performance on a Friday evening.  We arrived over an hour before the show and there was already a line around the corner.  We ended up getting really good seats, and I don’t think I stopped smiling the entire time.

The show started with a humorous skit/dance on love and dating, and ending with a Latin-Afro blend of music and dance.  The entire show was high energy and featured dances from areas all around Colombia.

The show was great, and I always keep Lido Theater in mind for fun things to do any night of the week.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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We ended up on LA 33 in Laureles.  I had seen the bars and clubs lining this street before and had always wanted to try it out, but hadn’t had the chance.  I was super excited for the night.

We ended up at a small Salsa Bar.  We found one of the few tables still open in the back, and we ordered a media of Rum and a few cokes for the four of us.

A few drinks in, they started asking for girls to come up and dance on the stage.  At least, that’s what my friends told me.  I happily jumped up there, basically forgetting that I don’t dance Salsa at all or speak Spanish.

Luckily, it was more about hip-hop dancing, which I am capable of.  Eventually I realized that it was a contest.  There was one guy from the bar that was dancing with all the girls, in a very suggestive way…to put it gently.

I had a great time. and I ended up winning second place!  My prize was a media of Rum for the table!

If you want to party like a real local.  Check out the area.  There are a ton of different bars with a range of music to make anyone’s night.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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We got to the bar around 10pm.  There was a 12,000 COP charge to get in the door, and a minimum charge of around 15,000 COP for food or drinks.  One thing I’ve always loved about Medellin bars is that they have you mix your own drinks.  They bring out the liquor in a shot glass, a bottle of the mixer, and a glass with ice.  Perfect for someone like me that prefers things a little more…concentrated.

I believe the band was the house band that plays almost every Friday night, and some Saturdays as well.  They did mostly covers of iconic rock songs.  Things like Rolling Stones, Pat Benatar, U2, The Offspring, and Blur, as well as some popular songs from all around Latin and South America.

The vibe there was extremely similar Woody’s, one of the bars I would frequent in Twin Falls, Idaho.   The walls are all red, and the stage is really nice.  Don’t expect any dancing, but there is plenty of cheering and singing along.

Felipe was nice enough to keep us company between sets, where we got to know each other much better, and began to discuss the music scene here in Colombia, and how to break out into a bigger market.  At the end of the night he was even kind enough to drive me home, which is always appreciated way more than paying for a taxi!

I’m positive Mario and I will go back soon…and I promise to take some pictures for you!  Until then, here is the information for Arte Vivo:

Calle 25 #43G – 25. Barrio Colombia.

444-1609

artevivo@une.net.co

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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La Rumbantela on Calle 33

The festivities of the Salsa Congress concluded, I spent the next few nights seeing friends for the last time – going out to dinner with Milena and visiting Alejandra at her new apartment for home-cooked pasta primavera.  She had an amazing view of the city from her balcony and I liked the way the sliding glass door ran almost the full length of the balcony so you could really open up the apartment to the outside.

Lily

Astrid had suggested La Rumbantela on Calle 33 as the spot for my goodbye party July 15th since we both wanted there to be salsa dancing involved!

Earlier in the day, I went to the gym for the last time and said goodbye to my trainer, Camilo.  On the way back, I stopped into the place where I got my hair buzzed short every week for 5,000 COP and said goodbye as well.  I met up with Lily at Poblado metro for one last cerveza, and said goodbye to her too.

And then I arrived on time for my own party, but before anyone else was at the bar!  People soon began to congregate on a nearby bench.  When we reached critical mass, we headed inside and proceeded to take over the back of the bar.

Once inside, I realized La Rumbantela would’ve been a cool place to go dancing more often.  I had become so accustomed to El Eslabon Prendido and Cien Fuegos that I’d not tried to discover new places.  Better late than never.

Casey (center) and Martin with Joanna

Behind the bar were stacks of vinyl records, but it seemed as though all the music was run off a laptop.  The walls were adorned with the names and pictures of salsa legends, the names and music of whom I am slowly getting to know.  As more people continued to arrive, I felt happy to be surrounded by so many new friends.

Inside La Rumbantela

Attendees included Maira who rented me a room for 4 months, Martin who I met my first week in Medellin and lived with for a few months, his girlfriend Joanna, Astrid who inspired me to go out dancing as much as possible, Jesusa,  Diana, Sebastian and Lina from Couchsurfing, Henry from Poorbuthappy and his friend Elena, Alejandra who I met at Le Pub de Octavia on opening night and her friend Paola, and Casey who runs a travel company in Costa Rica and was scouting out Medellin for it’s business potential.

Maira and I get tangled up

I was looking forward to dancing salsa with Maira, and it turned out she definitely knew what she was doing.  I had assumed too much, but she explained that she can dance to all the typical genres of music, it’s just that salsa wasn’t her favorite.

Salsa dancing at La Rumbantela

My last dance of the night, I believe, was with Astrid.  I pulled out all the moves I knew, and Astrid had the skill and style to make it all look good.  When it was all over, I received a surprising round of applause as everyone had been watching us.

Then Maira and I called it a night and shared a taxi back to Envigado for some much deserved sleep.

Astrid, Casey and I

It was the perfect ending to my time in Medellin – lots of dancing, friends, and beer. 

_________________

La Rumbantela – Calle 33 No. 76-132, Medellin.  Tel: 412-4482

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Astrid dances on 2 with Junior (a world champion)

I had so much fun my first night at the 2009 Colombia Salsa Congress that I was looking forward to a return visit with Astrid on my last Sunday night in the country.  We arrived at the starting time, yet they were still preparing the gymnasium so we sat outside and talked.  Yamile, one of my dance teachers, then walked over with her Swedish friend.  They had just been in the auditorium for a performance, and right behind them were a steady stream of people, many of whom were about to benefit from free entrance into the evening’s party as a result of paying for tickets to the show.

Once again, we stationed ourselves at a table near stage right.  Rum, sodas, and water soon arrived, and it wasn’t long before we all began to dance again.  The night’s music was provided by the house band at Cien Fuegos whom I’d heard and danced to many times before.

Yamile (far right) snaps a photo of Albert Torres (salsa promoter)

Earlier in the day, Yamile had a private lesson with Junior Alabi.  While I was trying to figure out who were the stars, I thought Junior’s sister, Emily, was the blonde woman.  But I must’ve gotten mixed up, because Emily Alabi, I much later realized, has darker skin and black hair like her brother!  But I did see Emily dance a lot, and she was undeniably beautiful.  Here’s her MySpace page in case you don’t believe me.

Me and ??

So as the party was peaking, I summoned the courage to walk over and ask the woman I thought was Emily to dance.  While it didn’t turn out to be her, I do know whoever it was is very good!  If you can ID her for me in this photo, I’d appreciate it.  She was really friendly, and while we talked more on the dance floor than me showing her what I knew in terms of moves, I didn’t mind.  She seemed sincere, and had could even relate to my around the world trip, having backpacked the Pacific Rim herself.

Meanwhile, Astrid took the opportunity to dance with Junior, which I captured in the video below.  She said he was one of the only one to dance on 2′s, which I later learned, is basically the New York style of salsa.  Same steps, different timing.

Bonus Video

www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQ5ucYFe0Co

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We eventually made our way to a small reggae bar in Envigado where there were street style dancers from a few local schools, as well as a few live reggae bands.  One man performed a couple of skits.  I couldn’t understand much of it, but I know they were funny.  They also showed a couple (really bad) short films.  The club would have been amazing if I liked reggae, but honestly, I didn’t feel moved by any of the music.

The next day was the cavalcade (horse parade).  I forego it in order to look at a room I’m considering renting, but I did catch glimpses of it from the Metro.  There where thousands of people on the streets, and they were close enough to pet the horses as they went by.

Vendors were set up literally everywhere.  They were just feet from each other, selling many kinds of delicious food, flashy sombreros, candies, gum, clothing, jewelry, and random knickknacks.  The whole atmosphere was exciting.

There are events setup at different shopping centers around the city.  I went to see an automobile display and a Japanese Bonsai display.  They were both interesting, and the city has obviously gone through a ton of trouble to put together every event.

After sunset, the streets began to fill with people.  Several roads are blocked off for the street parties.  It was weird to see all of the open-air restaurants empty, as everyone took to the streets and small bars.  I personally have never seen so many people in one area before.  Overall, the city is pulsing with excitement…it’s completely impossible to escape it!

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Orquesta La Sospecha

As I continued to try and squeeze every drop of enjoyment out of my time left in Medellin, I decided to check out Grupo Gale July 11th.  They had performed the prior night at Colombia’s 2009 Salsa Congress party, and were now offering a free show at Premium Plaza.  Once there, I met up with Astrid and a few of her American friends who were visiting, Jesusa, and several other Colombian couchsurfers.  The show was being staged underneath the mall, which was a bit strange, but I suppose it was good promotion and addressed the potential for rain.

The music wasn’t doing much for me, but once I started dancing, I realized it was fine.  Unlike going to a rock concert, a salsa show necessitates dancing!

Edwin Rivera in blue

After the show, Astrid and I were given a ride to the Universidad de Medellin.  I was curious to check out the Salsa Congress party that night.  At the least, I knew I could count on Astrid for a dance or two, but otherwise, I was stepping into the unknown.

Luck was a lady this night, in the form of Yamile, one of my dance instructors.  She spotted me at the entrance, before we’d even stepped inside.  We were equally thrilled to see each other.  I had been wanting to dance socially with her before leaving town.  She invited us to the table she got with her Swedish friend, and before long, more friends arrived and we were sipping water (her) rum (me) and talking.  One of the guys in the group had a professional cameraman following and filming his life.  Apparently it was for some type of internet video project.

Junior Alabi

Yamile pointed out a few of the world’s best salsa dancers for me.  They were sitting on the opposite end of the dance floor from us -- Edwin Rivera (USA) in blue and white and Junior Alabi (USA) in pink jeans and a sport coat.  I guess if you’re that good, a little flair in your wardrobe can be pulled off.  I’ll be sticking with t-shirts and jeans for the near future.

Busy dance floor

Most of my dances were with Yamile.  After all, she knew the moves I knew, so it eliminated most of the awkwardness you get dancing with someone new, especially when the guy in that equation is the least experienced (by 5-10 years) on the dance floor.  It was a cool experience to be dancing with Yamile, just a few feet from Junior doing his thing.

More so than feeling intimidated, I felt motivated to continue improving after watching so many great dancers.

Bonus Video

www.youtube.com/watch?v=jTu9Xw_zSUE

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The ladies of Medellin learn to salsa at Cien Fuegos

I returned to Cien Fuegos on my final Friday night in Colombia for one last salsa lesson.  It being the night geared toward more advanced salsaleros, the combination taught was rather intricate.  I laughed when I saw the instructor show us the first time, however after he broke it down into pieces, and I practiced, I actually got the hang of it.  The caveat to retaining the move in my arsenal would be the ability to commit the steps to memory by practicing, immediately.

Casey arrived at Cien Fuegos as my lesson was wrapping up.  He’d connected with me via this blog, and was on vacation from his home and travel business in San Jose, Costa Rica.  He was a real character, and a lot of fun to hang out with.  I was happy to show him a few of my favorite places in the city, Cien Fuegos being one.  Unfortunately, the vibe wasn’t the same as the prior Friday night when I had a blast dancing with my fellow Couchsurfers.  The crowd was slightly smaller too, but the club was still full.  It was just the bar seating where we were that was lacking people.

It was raining out, so we got a bit wet waiting for a taxi, and then sped up to Poblado.  Before entering Le Pub de Octavia, we made a pit stop for some pizza at a place I use to frequent during my Casa Kiwi hostel days back in February.  And then into Octavia which was in full swing.  A huge group of foreigners were there, including Jossie and the Irish guy, and an American from Colorado named Shane who I’d also met.  I also ran into Henry, and Jamie from Canada.  Clearly, Octavia, like Octava, and most notably, Blue, had caught on with the foreign crowd (for better or worse).  Unfortunately, the DJ’s don’t vary the musical selection too much, so at least when it comes to the rock music being played, I’d heard it all before.  I’m less adept at identifying the reggaeton and salsa songs though.

More dancing, and talking, and by 1:30am or so, I was ready to call it a night.

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GAR Bar in Parque Lleras

As my time in Medellin was drawing to a close, I wanted to make the most of the salsa dancing opportunities.  Earlier in the week, I’d gone out to El Eslabon Prendido for the last time, though I didn’t get to dance too much because it was way too crowded.  I love the music and atmosphere there, but they need to have a few less chairs and tables or somehow limit the number of people.  But I digress.

Astrid (Germany) is in her element

Thursday night, I went to Cien Fuegos for a group salsa lesson, and then headed to GAR Bar in Parque Lleras to meet up with Astrid, Andrea, Lina, Martin, Johana, and others.  We actually had a really big turnout.

From left: Andrea, Lina, and me

I drank a bunch of delicious mojitos and caipirinihas, which were possibly my last in Colombia for awhile.  I found out from Astrid that Cien Fuegos was hosting a party that night as a kickoff to Colombia’s Salsa Congress which was occurring over the weekend.

Live Cubano salsa band at GAR Bar

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The lounge’s main floor was empty, but there was a crowd on the top floor.  An awning hung over the space, so you couldn’t actually look straight up and see the sky, but it felt very open air.  I greeted Robin and Henry, and met a few new people including an Irish guy and Jossie, a recent arrival from England who planned to teach English.

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Cien Fuegos in full swing

Last Friday night, I had made plans to go dancing with Sirley at Cien Fuegos.  It was long overdue, and we posted an invite to the Medellin Couchsurfing group to see who else would be interested.

People began arriving at 8pm for the group lesson.  It turns out, Thursday nights lessons are for beginner/intermediates, while Friday night lessons are for more advanced dancers.  Since I had some trouble with the combination from the prior Thursday, I knew I’d be out of my league.  But, over the course of an hour, I got it down, roughly.  Probably one of the most complicated combinations I’d been taught so far, and I had no intention to try and practice it that night!

After the lesson, there’s this dead spot where the early arrivals are in a lull because the normal dance crowd won’t arrive until at least 10pm, nor does the live band go on before then.  But once people did begin to arrive, the club quickly filled up.  In fact, at it’s peak, it was full and busier than the first time I had gone on a Saturday night.

Large dance floor and stage

We were sitting at the bar due to the high cost of buying a bottle of liquor, which is a prerequisite for certain tables, or large groups like ours.  I learned the bar is where the single arrivals go – be it women or men, and therefore isn’t a bad place to be stationed for the night.  Approaching a woman on a bar stool is a lot easier than walking up to a table of seated people.

The short story is we all danced, A LOT, that night.  The band was a different one than I’d heard before and I enjoyed them more than the normal band.  I had a goal to ask 3 women not amongst my social group to dance.  Now that I’ve got some experience under my belt, I feel more comfortable asking strangers to dance.  In Colombia, the women will always wait for the man to approach and ask them to dance.  So if you want to dance, you can’t be shy.

I ended up asking about 5 ladies to dance, in addition to the 3 amongst my friends.  Of the 5, one was a professional dancer from the club.  Dancing with her is like dancing with a teacher – great form, knows the typical movements (although I might not have been able to signal them properly).  I definitely feel a better connection dancing with some women more than others, and I’m sure they experience the same thing.

By a quarter to 2am, I was sufficiently sweaty, and worn out from the night.  I said my goodbyes and headed home.

Cien Fuegos is open until 4am on the weekends.

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Me and Lina

Maira entrusted her apartment to me while she caught up with family and friends during the summer break, so I figured it was party time.  Well, it took a nudge from friend Martin to motivate me, but I’d been thinking about it already.  With only a few weeks left before I return home, it’d be silly NOT to host a party!

From left: Joanna and Martin, Alejandra, and Paola

I adopted the wine and cheese theme, and set about inviting people from all areas of my life here – Couchsurfing, the gym, my neighborhood, old and new friends, my dance studio, EAFIT University, and even the copy shop where I use to spend an ungodly number of hours on the internet before getting my own laptop.

Me and Andrea

A little after 9 pm, Martin and his girlfriend Joanna, arrived and were then followed by a steady stream of new arrivals.  The apartment is well furnished for a party, and there was enough space for people to be comfortable.  I used my laptop to supply the steady stream of music, along with Martin’s portable speakers.  It was perfect, as if it got too loud, I’d surely end up with complaints from the neighbors or a visit from the security guard.

Diana

There was enough room to even dance a little, which by now you know, is something I’m always keen to do.

From left: Cristian, Andrea, Lina, Airton (Brazil), me, and Nicholas

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Yamile and I at the dance studio

My group lessons wrapped up two weeks ago as the dance studio is closing for Summer recess.  Because I had prepaid for 8 hours, I decided to take a private lesson to get my money’s worth rather than squeeze in another group lesson.  I arrived at the scheduled time last Tuesday, but there had been some mix-up.  A new time was set with Yamile, my secondary instructor, and I would get an extra 30 minutes free.  8pm rolls around, and I have a super-intense lesson until 9:30pm.  I learned a handful of new combinations, and she was intent on identifying some of my problems with form.  I definitely felt a big improvement by the end of that class, and since I had so much fun, signed up for another two days later.

Last Thursday, I met with Yamile for another private lesson, and learned even more new combinations.  My head was officially swirling with all the options I was gaining for leading women on the dance floor in an fun and exciting way.

At 8pm, I took my first group lesson at Cien Fuegos. The cost is 5,000 COP which means if you have your own car, it’s incredibly cheap.  The instructor was a guy with dreadlocks I’d seen dancing there extrodinarily well my first Saturday night visit

Cuban-inspired Cien Fuegos Cabaret

All the instructions were in Spanish, but the first move we practiced was rather basic, so I rotated around and danced with a bunch of women, even incorporating a few turns into it (making me feel like I really knew what I was doing!).  The second move he taught us was new to me, but was fairly easy to get the hang of.  And that lead us to a combination which was built upon the second set of steps.  It was trickier, but with some more practice I’m sure I’d get it.  I really wanted to stick around and dance with some of the other women who were making a night of it, but I’d already made plans.

I got to the GAR Bar in Parque Lleras early enough to ensure a table.  I was to be meeting up with Andrea, two of her friends, and a Brazilian guy, at the least.  In one corner of the gambling-themed bar, there was a poker table set up with a few guys fully engaged in cards.  Everyone else was having some food, drinks (2 for 1 mojitos), and waiting for the live Cuban-style band to start.

Andrea arrived with her friends, which included Lina.  The Brazilian couchsurfer, Airton, arrived too, as did a French guy and another Lina (and her friend) from Couchsurfing.  We relocated to a bigger table, got to know each other (which meant I had to remember my Spanish), and danced quite a bit.  Dancing with different women all the time is challenging.  They don’t often know the moves and combinations I’ve been taught in classes, and since I am not yet a strong enough lead, signals can get crossed and suddenly I’m the one being lead in a combination that is unfamiliar to me.  I think I need to learn to go with it more, just having fun and not getting too caught up on formalities.  Andrea was able to give me a quick music tip – Cuban-style salsa is slower, while the music from Puerto Rico is faster-paced.

After the band finished, most of us headed to Blue which is one of the only late-night venues (open past 2:30 am) in the area.  The irony is not lost on me when I say this, BUT there are too many foreigners at Blue.  It feels touristy for that reason, wheras at many of the other places I like to go, that’s not the case.  I think that’s the benefit of living somewhere versus just passing through.

Around 3 am, I headed home for some rest.  I had a party to throw the following night!

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Tango show at Teatro Lido

Medellin’s Tango Festival kicked off last Wednesday and I headed downtown to Teatro Lido for a free performance by an Argentine group.  Teatro Lido is supported by the government, therefore all the activities and shows are held free of charge, which means a long line forms in advance of the more popular event.  I took my place at the end of that line about an hour before the show was to start.  It was already 2 blocks long, but I knew from experience that the theater’s capacity could handle many more people who would arrive later.

It just so happened that I was right behind an American couple and their Colombian friend.  August and his girlfriend were on a long trip in Latin America, having started in Mexico, spent 2 months living in Havana, Cuba, and then 4 months in Medellin.  They were heading back to Mexico in a few days.  I took the opportunity to confirm it was incredibly simple for them, as Americans, to visit Cuba.  They just needed to fly in from Mexico, and they were given a 60-day Visa on arrival, which is NOT stamped in their passport.  In this way, the Cubans can ensure American tourists don’t risk travel fines when they re-enter the USA.  Yes, I want to visit Cuba in the near future!  Especially now that I have a passion for salsa dancing.

The line moved quickly once the theater opened, and we grabbed seats near the rear left of the lower level.  August had invited a poor-looking Colombian man to sit with us as they’d chatted in line too, however I was the one who ended up next to him, inhaling his funky odor for the duration of the show.  At times during the show, he’d sing along with the tango songs, so he clearly knew a thing or two about the music.

I was expecting the show to focus around dancing, but it turned out to be more of a variety show.  There was A LOT of humor, miming, what I believe was an introduction to tango given by a faux professor, some great singing, and of course a couple dancing tango.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=vGFEek3XOrA

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Player Annoucements

Last week, Medellin had the privledge to host its first World Cup qualifying match, ever!  The opponent was the rather weak Peru, and despite Colombia’s low standing in its group, the paisa fans came out in full strength to support the home team.  I met up with Sirley at the Estadio metro, surprised to see it was a family outing for her.  I was introduced to her Dad and brother, both BIG soccer fans.

Sirley's dad and brother walk past the riot police (aka Robocops)

The first benefit of going with them was they knew a way to bypass the long, winding line near the stadium’s entrance in front of the metro.  We just walked down the street a bit, and in through the gate where I bought my ticket (Oriental section) earlier that morning for a notable 70,000 COP.

We were patted down and given the all clear to proceed.  We were a good hour and a half early, but the stands were already filling up for the 6pm kick-off.  We walked around the stadium to the center of the Oriental section, and were patted down by security guards a second time.

Once inside, we waited in line to pick up some yellow Aguila beer plastic things.  I wondered why we bothered, and was anxious to secure a good seat, however I felt like the guest and followed Sirley’s lead.  Her and her family had been to a lot more games than me!  It turned out the plastic device is blown up and then used to make a loud noise, kind of like clapping but achieved by smacking two balloons together.  The stadium was filled with people wielding these devices, and once the game got started, I found them a lot more effective at making noise then mere human hands.

Me, Sirley, her brother, and dad

The sun was beaming across the stadium at us as we sat down right near the center of the upper deck section of Oriental.  Our four seats were right near the portal entrance so there was a lot of foot traffic before the game and during halftime, but the view was otherwise perfect.  Unlike the other games I’d been to, there were no vendors selling soda or food in the stands.  I wonder if that is some type of FIFA rule related to World Cup games, but as Sirley commented, it meant a lot of vendors were losing out on potential income. We each got BBQ chicken on a stick, which is accompanied by a boiled potato, arepa, and side of salad.  The Colombian-style hot dogs are too messy for me.  And I still miss being able to enjoy a game with a cold beer in my hand.

Sunset

A marching band came out before the game began, as did a group of Aguila models, both groups walking around the stadium.  When the players hit the field, the stadium erupted with confetti and streamers thrown onto the field.  After play began, Colombia came out aggressively and should’ve scored at least a goal or two in the opening ten minutes, but failed to capitalize on opportunities.  I quickly learned Sirley can yell with the best of them.

As the first half went forward, the sun slowly set behind the clouds and mountains, providing relief from the heat.  The twinkling little lights on the mountains began to light up.  Meanwhile, on the field, Colombia scored the one and only goal of the match.  At halftime, I went in search of ice cream but they didn’t have the kind I liked so I settled on a bag of potato chips and a Coke.

World Cup action under the lights

There were no problems that I saw with fighting, which meant the Robocops probably had a tranquil night.  In general, the crowd seemed very friendly and upbeat.  Of course the cost of the game was higher, so that may have helped to keep out some of the riff-raff.

Towards the end of the match, Peru was getting a lot of opportunities in front of the Colombian goal.  The whole match was suddenly a nail-biter for the wrong reasons, but Colombia prevailed and won their first World Cup qualifier held in Medellin!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyiYVeba2XA

This marks my third soccer match in the city and all three have been a real treat.

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Robin holding issue #2 of The Arepa

To properly launch the guide, he hosted a party at the Melodie Lounge in Poblado last Wednesday evening.  I haven’t been hanging out in lounges much, mostly due to their high drink prices, but to my surprise, I’d been to this one  a few months earlier.  It took me a half hour to receive a mojito this time around, but it was also unusually busy for a Wednesday I’m sure.  The lounge has two floors, and like the first time I was there, the lower level was empty.  The upper level, on the other hand, was filled with people, most of them there for The Arepa party.

Chillin' out. From left: Sirley, Marcela, me, and Katharina. Photo by Henry Gomez.

I was happy to see the usual and wonderful mix of Colombian and foreign couchsurfers, along with a few of the older expats living in the city.  I had cheated.  I read the whole PDF of the second issue, before arriving.  It felt very much like reading a blog, maybe even THIS blog!  Perhaps that is why I liked it so much.  It was non-glossy, humorous, entertaining, and informative.  In particular, I really appreciated the event and movie listings.  Interviews with musicians and graffiti artists were also fun to read.  I know Robin will continue to develop the style and format over the coming months, but I hope The Arepa will continue to maintain a backpacker appeal and aesthetic.  Judging from the amount of advertising he has already acquired, he should be in good shape.

The Melodie Lounge

I took the opportunity to introduce myself to Robin, and share my feedback.  He recognized me as the guy who runs this blog.  I offered to contribute something to the July issue, an article idea for the blog I’ve had on my mind for a few months now. Perhaps all that procrastination served a purpose – the opportunity to reach an audience via print!

The print version of The Arepa is distributed across the city, including all the hostels, and a selection of the big universities, popular hotels, and foreigner-frequented cafes and bars.  The PDF version is available online via The Arepa website.

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Melodie Lounge – Carrera 37 #10-29, Poblado, Medellin.  Phone:  268-1190.  Wraps, cocktails, cafe, and music (DJ).  Open 7 days a week.

Interview with the owners of Melodie Lounge about the concept and design.

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Twister - bridging cultural boundaries in Latin America

Henry and I walked over a little after 9 pm, stopping in Carrefour along the way to pick up a bottle of red Chilean wine.  Inside the store, we bumped into Kevin who was hurriedly shopping for pineapples and other assorted food and drinks for the fiesta.  Earlier in the day, I had scouted out the location via Google Maps, and it easily took the guesswork out of the walk.  We were greeted at the apartment by a big gathering, which slowly grew further as the night continued.

Since Kevin had just moved in a week earlier, it was practically unfurnished, which meant there was plenty of room for a game of Twister, and later dancing!  Yes, I look for the opportunities to practice my salsa wherever they may arise, and took a turn or two with Guiomar and Jesusa.  While Kevin could not stop making fresh fruit smoothies all night, the snacks on offer consisted primarily of cheese fondue with bread and fruit.  Delicioso.

Belly Dancing

I was completely surprised by the belly dancing show which took place.  We’re a long way from Egypt, but apparently the two girls who gave the show perform throughout the city.  They were fully decked out in costumes that beat what I saw on a Nile cruise last December.  It was a great treat.

Jesusa prepares to make a wish

The belly dancing concluded, birthday cake was presented, and the night continued.  I barely take my camera out these days, so all the photos in this post are courtesy of Henry G.  If I did have my camera, I would’ve been sure to get a bit of video and a photo of the sweeping view from Kevin’s large balcony.  I felt a little uneasy spending so much time out there, 7 stories high, but it was cooler than the apartment, and like I said, the 180-degree view was great.

Ironically, I didn’t walk home when I left the party around 2 am.  I started the walk, but once I reached Las Vegas Avenue, I felt a bit uneasy.  There were the occasional cars driving by but no people around.  I hailed a taxi instead, satisfied it was a few bucks well spent.

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Cien Fuegos on a Saturday night

Lelayna arrived with her male couchsurfing host, who wasn’t much into the dancing, and a friend of a friend who was half Swiss-half Colombian, and currently living in Medellin.  Watching Lelayna dance with her friend was a real show.  She was doing triple spins like a ballerina, stopping on a dime, and throwing her hands around in various stylish movements.  She had flair – A LOT of it.  And her friend was leading her perfectly through intricate combinations that blew away anything I’d seen by a foreigner in this city the last 4 months.

Alejandra and I chatted about the difference in style between Lelayna and the Colombians, who tend to be more reserved in there gestures and combinations.  But there was no doubt Lelayna can dance!  We decided to head for a bar in Parque Lleras which also featured a live salsa band on Thursday nights.

The G-bar, a gambling-themed bar I’d walked past a million times, was definitely filled with a younger crowd.  There was a small open space in front of the stage, but as with most places, you simply push a few seats out of the way closest to your table, and risk stepping on a toe or two when dancing around.  The band was playing salsa music that Alejandra and I enjoyed more than at Cien Fuegos.  I found it easier to dance to…however the quality and sound were not as good.  But, there was a fun ambiance that was desperately lacking at the cavernous, more upscale cabaret. I’d place the venue in the middle between underground El Eslabon Prendido and upscale Cien Fuegos.  For that reason alone, I’ll be heading back.

Once Lelayna got up and started dancing with her friend, she began to draw the attention of the Colombians in the bar.  It wasn’t the tourists taking photos, but the Colombians!  And even the bar’s owner, who was happily getting drunk with his friends in the corner near our table, took notice.  In fact, he gave them free drinks, and Alejandra even managed to enjoy one as a result.  We danced some more, and eventually left around 2:30 am.

Another late, great night of salsa dancing in The City of the Eternal Spring!

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Sammy and Max, friends from Miami in town for the holiday weekend, soon arrived, and the four of us headed to nearby La Octava for drinks (3 Cordilleras and caipirinhas) as the sun set and the streets and restaurants began to fill with paisas.  Eventually Diana, a Colombian couchsurfer from Envigado, joined us and we switched venues again.

A half block down from La Octava was Contraporton, a restaurant and bar on the corner of Calle 8 which seemed to be in more of a bar mode on a Saturday night.  We sat at a table and ordered a bottle of Medellin Anejo rum with Diet Pepsi and Sprite as mixers.  A bottomless bowl of popcorn and carrots were available for snacking.

Behind us was a projection screen playing videos to accompany the wide range of musical genres being played (crossover). My favorites were all featured – Carlos Vives (vallanato), Fonseca (pop), Daddy Yankee (reggaeton), Vincente Fernandez (ranchera), but I don’t recall any Shakira.

Rain started to pour down and with no sign of letting up as the hours passed, we were all content to stay put and get to know each other better.  In fact, Max was kind enough to offer me a place to stay in Miami should I pass through or want to come down for a visit once I’m back in the USA.

You gotta love Couchsurfing!

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Every Thursday night, for a 15,000 COP cover, you can drink 5 beers, while last Thursday of each month features a live band as well.

3 Cordilleras Brewery

Clint and I made the difficult decision to check out this casa cervecera in person.  As I was innocently snapping the photo above of the facade, he approached me from behind and tried to swipe something from my pocket, momentarily causing my heart to beat through my chest.  Practical jokes aside, we entered the brewery a little after 6pm, paid the cover, and received our drink tickets.

Beer and bar food

Up a flight of stairs, there was a big bar with small tables and chairs, plus taller wooden tables for the standing crowd.  We immediately set to work on the beer, though I knew 5 would be a tall order for me.  Clint’s Australian pedigree would ensure his ability to take full advantage.  I paid 5,000 COP for some chicken tenders with the consistency of wet cardboard, though the carrots were good.

You have 3 beers to choose from:

• Blanca – a wheat ale (light)
• Mestiza – an American pale ale (medium…and my favorite)
• Mulata – an amber ale (darker)

The indie and rock music was all familiar – The Cure, The Shins, and I’m sure there were others we’d all know if only I could remember their names.  By 7pm, the bar area was filled to capacity.  I was impressed.  The crowd consisted of mostly young professionals making a happy hour of the event.  Between the beer, the music, and the people, I felt like I could’ve been back in the United States, perhaps at Rock Bottom Brewery in Arlington, Virginia.  I saw it as a testament to the yuppification of Medellin!

It took us a little under three hours to use up our tickets.  Facing the prospect of sleep at the early hour of 9 or 10 pm, or continuing the night, we chose the latter and taxi’d our way up to Parque Poblado where Clint introduced me to a quaint (ie. super cheap) little Italian restaurant.  For 9,000 pesos, we each got spaghetti with ham and vodka sauce and a glass of red wine.  I was disappointed to hear they didn’t have any penne pasta on hand.  I made sure to jokingly give the waiter grief for that misfortune.

Brewery tour

After a satisfying dinner, we met up with Jamie and his new American friend Jeff in Parque Poblado.  From there, we headed to Blue as I’d read Thursday nights were the best (since I’d arrived in the city).  I’m happy to report you get two beers for the 5,000 COP cover, versus just one like on the weekends.  A decent sized crowd showed up, and we had a good time.  I called it a night around 2:30 am, a half hour before the club closes that night.

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3 Cordilleras – Calle 30, #44-176, Medellin.  Phone:  232-7792.  Three great types of beer on tap – Wheat (light), American Pale (medium) and Amber Ale (dark).  Thursday nights draw a happy hour crowd.  15,000 COP entry gets you 5 beers, plus an optional tour.  Hours:  5:30 – 9 pm.  The last Thursday of each month features a live band too.

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Cien Fuegos

Alejandra suggested we check it out last Saturday night, and if I am to be cast in the next Dancing With the Stars, I need to stay disciplined in my practice regimen.  This time around, we found the proper address via the internet (see below) and took off by taxi for the location near the Industriales metro station and Trilogia Bar (love that place).  Upon arrival, the red neon sign lit up the building’s facade.  It was a far cry from Tibiri near Estadio, which lacked any sign at all!

The professional dancers take the floor

The cover was 12,000 COP per person, and once inside, we were greeted with a massive dance floor, stage with live band, and three seating options.  The best seats were reserved for patrons ordering a bottle of liqour.  The second best seats were tied to half bottles, and the rest station themselves at the bar.  Being only the two of us, and me still in recovery mode from Blue the night before, we pulled up a few stools at the bar.

I sat there, staring out at the massive central dance floor, surrounded by people watching from their tables.  It was immediately apparent that there were a lot of good dancers in the room, and it wasn’t even full yet.  It took me about 15 minutes to get up the nerve to venture out on the floor with Alejandra, however once we got going, it was a lot of fun.  Sure, there are couples doing ridiculously complicated moves all around you.  Women are being spun like tops left and right, but I learned as long as I focused on my partner, everyone else faded into the periphery.  Of course I was excited to practice my latest moves, and Alejandra was able to show me a few as well. Later in the night, fog was misted out onto the dance floor which added to the whole atmosphere.

Drinks were quite a bit costlier than what you’ll find at the smaller bars like Tibiri, and El Eslabon Prendido in Centro.  For example, a bottle of water costs 5,000 COP, while beers start at 10,000 COP.  Expect to pay around 17,500 COP for a cocktail.  There were at least three groups there for birthday parties, and each was presented with a cake as the band played Happy Birthday.

Cien Fuegos - A great place to dance salsa

Throughout the night, there pairs of professional dancers would perform, as well as take customers onto the dance floor.  They were amazing, of course, however I was just as impressed by some of the customers dancing.  And I was pleased to find out the club offers dance lessons on Thursdays and Fridays!  I had a hard time imagining they are free given the upscale nature of the place, but I’ll keep you posted. We called it a night a little before 2 am.

Bonus Video!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCWIuBQvYzk

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Cien Fuegos Cabaret -- Carrera 43F, #18-158 (barrio Colombia, near Industriales metro).  Live band, large dance floor.  Salsa lessons offered Thursdays and Fridays.

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Entrance to Blue

Last Friday night was the first time me, Martin, and Maira all went out for a night on the town.  Maira chose Blue, and since Martin hadn’t been there either, and I like to take a break from salsa now and then in favor of my native rock and roll, it worked out for everyone.  Martin and I met up with Ji (sp?) outside the venue, and then paid the 5,000 peso cover (which includes one free beer) to get inside.  Maira and her friend met us there a little later.

Getting to venues early is always a good idea in Colombia.  It ensures you can get a table on which to rest your favorite bottle of liquor.  On this night, we went with rum (the alternative being the ghastly Aguardiente).  Two bottles of the sweet libation arrived, along with Sprite and Pepsi to mix.  Colombians will tell you Pepsi or Coke will give you a bigger hangover than if you use Canada Dry or Sprite, but I don’t buy it.

The music was very loud, but once we settled in, everyone had a good time and even a few conversations and introductions occurred.  Roosh stopped by to check out the bar (he is canvassing the city’s nightlife at an impressive rate).  Later, Jim stopped over to say hello too, as he was there with some people from The Black Sheep hostel.

From right - Martin, me, and Maira. A friend of Martin's is also pictured (yellow).

Eventually, we all got up and began dancing.  More rum was consumed.  A half-filled bottle was accidentally removed from our table, necessitating a third bottle to finish us off.  Martin left first.  The house lights came on around 3:45am, and Maira, three of her friends, and myself walked a block to get some food.  I remember ordering a quesadilla…I think.  More importantly, since that didn’t turn out to be enough to satiate me, I returned to the cashier and ordered a brownie sundae.  That did the trick, and then Maira and I took a taxi back to Envigado for some much needed rest.

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In the evening, I met up with Roosh from Washington, DC, and Jim once again, at my favorite meeting spot – the Juan Valdez Cafe in Parque Lleras.  From there, we walked over to Octava and had a drink.  Inevitably, the topic of travel in South American countries came up, though unlike the other two guys, I haven’t been anywhere beyond Colombia.

The plan was to then hit up B-Lounge, which is suppose to be the happening place on Wednesdays (ladies night).  Unfortunately, the bouncer had a disliking for groups of gringo guys, and therefore denied us entry.  Roosh had a friend inside, and was more dedicated to the mission.  Jim and I headed back to the park and had a few beers outside, before calling it a night.  The next day, Roosh reported that the lounge was OK, but there were too many guys, and he probably wouldn’t head back without a girl in tow (to ease entry).  As for Jim and I, we’re happy to blacklist any place that treats us in that manner (though I get their point…keep the ratio of men to women under control).

Jim stayed in Medellin a week, while it sounds like Roosh is here for a few months.

_______________________

B-Lounge – Carrera 36 #10-38, Poblado, Medellin.  Ph:  311-5048

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The reggae band was great.  The performance was in the area of the hostel being renovated, so there was a distinctly underground feel to being there.  Bare cement floor just laid the previous day, a makeshift bar, construction materials strewn about.

Paul blows out the candles on his cake

And of course there were plenty of Colombians to mix with the hostel guests in attendance.

Paul, originally from Seattle (USA), arrived in Medellin after a 3 1/2 year solo motorcycle trip from Alaska down to Argentina.  A year into living in Medellin, he opened Casa Kiwi (circa 2005).  Yet to be listed in The Lonely Planet, he attributes its success to positive word of mouth from travelers. And as I am writing about his hostel now, you can be assured I’ve been one to recommend it too.

Once the renovations are completed in the next few months, I think he will solidify the hostel’s reputation in Medellin and Colombia.  After all, who can’t appreciate a 5th floor rooftop swimming pool. 

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The scene outside Ossian Bar

I met up with David last Saturday afternoon, and we took the metro to Universidad de Antioquia.  It turned out the show would be at Ossian Bar, one of the little dive bars across the street from the main entrance to campus.  Not knowing the neighborhood or venue in advance, safety concerns were on my mind.  Once I realized where we were, I felt completely at ease.  In fact the dive bar was so small, there would be no room for physical slam dancing anyways.

Metal band

David was excited, so we arrived at 6pm, the start time indicated on the flier.  Unfortunately, things often run behind schedule in Colombia.  We took a seat outside the venue at one of the little tables, and talked.  Iron Maiden songs were the only ones I recognized from the stereo as the first band set up.  As time went by, more and more black-clad metal heads arrived and milled about on the sidewalk. In addition to my pale white, bald head and (beautiful) blue eyes, my red t-shirt and blue jeans must’ve made me stick out like a sore thumb, but no one seemed to care about my presence.

Poster for Festival de Metal Extrema

The entry fee was all of about $1.60.  Around 7 pm, the first band went on, and played some interesting music under a red light in the dimly lit bar.  David said it wasn’t death metal.  It was too slow.  I think he categorized it as “doom.”  One thing I learned from this experience was there are many more sub-genres to metal than I ever realized.  And the fact that the songs were in Spanish made no difference, given you could not distinguish words from the lead singer’s guttural vocals anyways.

After the opening band finished up, we got to talking again outside.  An hour passed, and eventually it was 9:15 pm, and due to a late bass player, there was no anticipated time for the second band to get started.  David was  little annoyed by the delay too, but much more invested in hearing death metal that night.  I, on the other hand, had a reggae band to catch up in Poblado at Casa Kiwi Hostel for Paul’s birthday, and decided to leave.

I was a little disappointed that I didn’t get to see more, but maybe if I go again, I will arrive later to ensure an hour or two of the best bands of the night, instead of the reverse.

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Capoeira - the Brazilian mix of martial arts and dancing

Martin, whose capoeira group would be performing at the event, arrived soonafter, and we sat and talked as the theater filled up. Eventually, a bunch of couchsurfers arrived as well.  It is always nice to see familiar faces.

Around 10pm, the capoeira group began their demonstration.  They started out slow, eventually escalating into very rapid interactions and acrobatics.  It was an impressive show, and in such a small area, surrounded by people in low light with no matting to soften a fall.  Respect!

After the capoeira wrapped up, there was a short break, and then Ipanema took the stage.  Alexa said they were most definitely Colombian musicians, however they were singing in Portugese (of course).  I know nothing of samba, and felt the siren call of salsa dancing at El Eslabon Prendido which was nearby.  So you guessed it, we left and spent the rest of the night dancing, and watching and critiquing the others there too.

All in all, another great Friday night out in Medellin!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQYPfXtjxKA

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Teatro Matacandelas -- Calle 47 No. 43 -- 47, Central Medellín.  Tel: (+57-4) 215-1010

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El Eslabon Prendido

Last Tuesday, after my second lesson of the week, I invited Marloes, my Dutch classmate, to El Eslabon Prendido.  We headed there by taxi around 9:30 pm, and before we even entered the bar, ran into Guiomar, her friend, a French couchsurfer, and Adriaan.  I made sure to introduce Marloes to Adriaan, as they both hail from the Netherlands.

Once inside, we all sat together, along with 2 more Dutch women who were friends of Adriaan (actually, one of them is a new intern for Colombia Reports).

And it wasn’t long before I asked Marloes to dance.  After all, we had a few new moves to practice from class.  It eventually became more crowded, and the dancing more difficult.  I have dubbed it “an extreme salsa learning environment” because the stronger couples tend to take up more space, and unintentionally end up bullying around the less skilled couples.  Women’s long hair would whip me in the face as they spun around in a frenzy to the faster rhytmns.  But it’s all in good fun.  My last dance was with a Colombian woman who was leading me in a dance that resembled nothing I could identify with.  It was really awkward, but I waited out the song to the gregarious laughs of Guiomar who was dancing next to us.

Thursday night, I joined Martin and an American girl, Laura, from his Spanish class near Estadio for more dancing.  Laura had invited her Colombian friend, who also brought a friend, and a New Zealand guy new to town.  This created a perfect male to female ratio, which is an important logistical concern with salsa dancing.  No one wants to be on the sidelines!

We stopped into Tibiri but it was empty, so we walked a ways further and ducked into a different bar, though it was empty too.  We got a table, and with the dance floor to ourselves…danced!  It was a nice change to have an empty bar and dance floor on which to practice.  No worries about people watching you or getting in your way.  Eventually the DJ switched to reggaeton, and we made our exit, returning to Tibiri to find more people had arrived, including a group of couchsurfers Martin had invited. More dancing with new people in smaller, though still not very crowded, Tibiri.

Before catching a cab back to Envigado with Martin, I was sure to chomp on a greasy, late night arepa con queso (with a little sweetened, condensed milk on top).  Yum.

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Clint entertains Mirian

We got there around 10 pm, just as it was starting to fill up.  The tables were taken, so we set up shop at the bar, ordering a bottle of rum, along with Sprite and Coke as mixers.  It was Mirian’s birthday, which gave us extra incentive to celebrate life.  Clint was on fire with the jokes, and it reminded me of how much fun Australians have been on my travels.

Alejandra and me

I was excited to practice my salsa, and Alejandra turned out to be a great partner.  The music was much more of a crossover than I remembered – salsa, reggaeton, 80′s rock, and as always, a little Rage Against the Machine to get everyone pumped up.  Even though I could’ve sworn the bar stayed open later, the house lights came on a little before 2 am, so we paid the tab and made our exit into the rain.

We stopped for a bite to eat on Calle 10, which in typical Colombian fashion, was utterly unhealthy.  It was a mixed plate of meat, chicken and french fries.  But it tasted great, as most foods do late at night after a few drinks.

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Tuesday night at El Eslabon Prendido

I met Martin in Parque Periodista a half block from the bar, and we also bumped into a few couchsurfers hanging out after attending a show at Teatro Lido, in addition to a few heading for the bar.  Arriving around 9 pm, and paying a 4,000 peso cover (about $1.60), we were there early enough to occupy a group of tables near the front of the bar where the band would be playing.  Slowly, people began to file in and the bar filled up as the band began to set up around 10 pm.  Wax candles were lit along the walls, providing  an intimate ambience.

Salsa band

Guiomar (red shirt) asked me to dance while everyone else was still sitting down and chatting.  I quickly found out she was an amazing dancer -- one of the two best I’ve had the pleasure to learn from.  Unfortunately, she didn’t speak much English, which added some humor to her attempts to instruct me verbally.

As the band began to play, more and more people got up to dance.  I was really enjoying the whole atmosphere.  I danced with several people including Ellen, Jesusa, and an Australian girl.  The three and a half hours I was there went by too quick.

By 12:30 am, I was relegated to the sidelines, too tired to keep dancing but not quite ready to leave the bar as the band had begun a second set.  It was fun to watch the most skilled dancers go at it.  It only motivated me to want to get better, faster.  My plan was to ask for Guiomar’s help in that respect.

I hope to find a few people wanting to go out to El Eslabon Prendido every Tuesday, which would give me the chance to immediately practice the new moves I learn in my dance classes.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=aILh0NlNjjo

El Eslabon Prendido -- Calle 53 #42-55, Centro.  (Maracaibo, a half block above Parque Periodista).  Hosts live bands Tuesday nights.

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We managed to find the exact address on foot, only to realize it was the location of the new Le Pub de Octavia (salsa and rock bar). We spoke with the girl at the entrance who confirmed there were no salsa lessons on offer in the new venue. Bummed out because I wouldn’t get to further my dance skills that night, we made a lap around Parque Lleras and had a drink on the front porch of Octavia. It was still early, so everyone was eating dinner in the restaurants. Then we caught the bus back to Envigado from Parque Poblado.

Back at the apartment, I had the sense that I was coming down with a cold, and my sixth sense proved to be correct on this occasion. As a result, I spent Friday night watching a movie with Maira and going to bed early, and Saturday night playing with a shiny, new toy I just received (if you’ve been following my Twitter updates, then you already know what I’m talking about). And Sunday was all about the toy too. More on that later.

Update:  Since I wrote the post above, I learned Cien Fuegos did not close, but rather moved to a location near Trilogia Bar (Industriales metro).  I hope to confirm this in person with a night of dancing!

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Things to do in Medellin

There is no shortage of advertising posted around Medellin highlighting upcoming events.  I thought this duo of posters presented the perfect contrast of opportunities:  a youth-oriented Saturday night with classic and contemporary music versus a night of ballet with Medellin’s Philharmonic Orchestra.

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Meeting point

A reggaeton concert was set to occur in Parque Envigado last Saturday, which Martin and I learned about when we happened across a giant stage set up the night before.  I rallied people to meet us there at 8 pm, only to find out that the show ended around that time, rather than began.  So, on the church steps, Martin and I sat until David arrived, then Henry and a group of his friends including 2 American guys, Ellen from Holland, and Elena (Colombian).

The new plan entailed taxis to Carrera 70 and San Juan, near the stadium.  The girls wanted to dance, and I was looking for practice.  The 2 American guys bailed at this point, which was better for the group dynamic anyways.  We regrouped after the taxi rides and had some beers at one of the many salsa bars in the area.  I danced with Ellen, but was thinking too much and got flustered.  It´s hard to be a beginner on the dance floor and see other more adept salsa dancers whizzing around you.

After talking for awhile, we relocated to another barrio, Laureales, and a club named Underground.  It was in stark contrast to the salsa place.  Black-painted interior, loud, heavy rock music (both Spanish and English songs), and most everyone sitting at tables drinking (ok that part wasn´t too different).  The crowd was younger though.  It took forever to get a pitcher of beer, and being in the mood to try and meet some new people, and not seeing any prospects at the bar, I decided to meet up with Clint and Jamie in Poblado. They were at El Pub de Octavia, which I really enjoyed on it´s opening night the week of Semana Santa.

Henry and friends

I said goodbye to everyone and got a taxi across town.  Octavia was bustling, and I immediately appreciated the lower sound levels and brighter (but still ambient) lighting.  Clint bought us a round of beers, and in the interest of becoming a better dancer, I asked a girl who was near us for a dance.  She didn´t hesitate, and we danced for a song, only for me to find out her boyfriend was right there (I thought they were just a group of friends).  I started talking to him, and it turned out he was a doctor.  That´s the second doctor I have met at the bar in 2 nights there.  A friendly offering of Aguardiente later, Jamie, Clint and I made our way to La Octava which was also crowded, even at 2 am.  We hung out there for a bit, and I finally called it a night around 3 am.  The guys were sure to mention the fact that I always seemed to be going home the earliest!

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Teenagers hanging out in Parque Envigado

Before this weekend kicks off tomorrow, I better catch you up on the last one.  I had been meaning to check out the nightlife in my backyard, Envigado, since I moved into Maira´s apartment, but usually ended up in another part of the city on the weekend.

Luckily, Martin was up for a walk and we headed out around 10 pm to see what was stirring.  No metros, no taxis, no buses, just walking.

We made our way up to Parque Envigado which was bustling with people.  Lots of teenagers were hanging out on the church steps, and around the park, which is a common scene in Medellin´s neighborhoods.  I bought a beer from one of the little shops, and sat with Martin by a fountain.

We then proceeded to make a loop of a few adjacent city blocks, which lead us past many bars, though we didn´t stop in them.  On our way back to the apartment, we passed two discos which Jacob had pointed out to me a few weeks before, but neither had any people.  And lastly, we happened upon La Bota, which I had yet to see at night.  As Jacob described, it was a strip of about 8 to 10 bars, and packed with people sitting outside, drinking and talking and doing whatever it is we do when we´re out to have a good time on a Friday night.

Martin and I sat down in Moe´s Bar first, which is named after The Simpsons´character, and bears the same theme on the sign outside, and within on the walls.  Surprisingly, there was a $9 minimum, and neither of us intended to drink that much, so we tried the pirate-themed bar next door.  No minimum, so I had a few beers while Martin drank his usual bottle of water.  The music was loud, but I enjoyed the mix of salsa, reggaeton, rock and pop.  Unfortunately, there wasn´t much mingling going on – mostly just friends and couples hanging out with people they already knew, or friends of friends.  I much prefer a place like La Octava or Octavia or Blue where more people are standing around and within easier reach to strike up a conversation.

It was an early night, which was good, since Saturday would be a late one.

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The bar itself was long and rectangular, with tables and chairs lining the walls, leaving open space for dancing in the middle.  Unfortunately, it wasn’t too crowded and there was no one dancing, but it was still a good reconnaissance opportunity.  The center of the city doesn’t have the best reputation for safety at night, but I always feel a bit more comfortable when I am with Colombian friends.  At any rate, once my salsa dancing begins to improve, I plan to check it out on a Friday or Saturday night. 

Adriaan retired from the bar, and Nicholas invited me over to his apartment for one more beer.  And if I was staying at an apartment like his, I would be inviting people over too.  The main space is an art gallery, and there were some great prints on display by a Colombian artist depicting psychedelic mushrooms and vegetables fighting one another (my favorite was entitled “Broccoli versus Cauliflower”).  The designer’s theme was related to dream imagery.  There was also a spacious balcony which had a great view over one of the main streets below.  I met one of his roommates, and took a card for the gallery, hoping I could attend the next art opening.

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The South American club tournament – Copa Libertadores

The home team – Independiente Medellin

The visiting team – Sao Paulo (Brazil)

I met Adriaan at his apartment downtown around 6:30pm, with rush hour in full swing and rain beginning to fall.  I had decided to leave my camera at home so I wouldn’t have to worry about it being stolen, or further damaged by water.  We took a taxi toward the stadium, picking up his Colombian friend, Nicholas, along the way.  Nicholas is a Humanities teacher from Bogota, working in Medellin for 6 months. 

We bought tickets from the first guy on the street who offered them to us, and probably payed a little more than was necessary (over the face value) but it wasn’t much by western standards.  Our seats were in the Oriental (eastern) side, which is where I sat for my first Colombian futbol match a few weeks earlier.  We ate a few pre-game hot dogs, and given all the vendors screaming “gaseosa,” I also felt the desire to drink a few sodas.  As a reminder, no alcohol is sold at the matches. 

Independiente Medellin fans at a day game

Around 7:50 pm, the national anthems were played, and the Medellin fans at the one end of the stadium lit up about 30 red flares, issuing off a cloud of smoke which drifted above the stadium as the game got under way.  For the next 90 minutes, it was standing room only for the thousands of passionate supporters over there.  Their drums, chants, and cheers echoed throughout the stadium.  By comparison, I only saw one obvious Sao Paulo supporter. 

While we were all there to support Medellin, we were also excited to see some Brazilian futbol played live before us.  But Sao Paulo looked uninspired in the first half, and Medellin scored the first two goals, with Sao Paulo getting a quick and brilliant one before halftime. 

The second half had Sao Paulo on the attack, and there were a few close calls, however Medellin managed to hold them off and take the win.  Since the score of the first match played in Sao Paulo was 1-1, Medellin’s win at home puts them in a good position to advance further in the tournament. 

Unlike my first futbol match, I saw no evidence of fighting in the stands at this one, though it was less crowded.  Perhaps having a common international opponent keeps things on an even keel.

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Salsa dancing at Habana

Clint messaged me to say he was heading back to Poblado a few nights after our last adventure, and since I had recovered in that time, I met up with him in Parque Poblado along with Martin, my roommate, and his visiting friend from Peru.  Martin is thinking of living in Japan for awhile, and since Clint had done just that before arriving in Colombia, it was a good opportunity for questions.  We then

walked the few blocks up to Parque Lleras where a few beers and a bottle of Aguardiente were purchased.  Jamie, Clint’s friend, commented that the night was starting out in an eerily similar manner as before.  I agreed, and therefore refrained from the Aguardiente (save one shot for good luck) to ensure the following day could be productive.  Clint commented that he’d never seen so few people around the park on a Saturady night.  Clearly Semana Santa was having an impact on the nightlife, especially on the eve of Easter.

Soon, Amu joined us along with 5 Peruvians who were couchsurfing with him.  It is worth noting that 4 of them were girls, and at least 3 of those girls were semi-pro salsa dancers.  If they weren’t professional, than it is at least safe to say they loved to dance and were very good at it.  Eventually, the majority of the group and I headed toward Habana, a bar with live salsa music, while Clint and Jamie headed for Octava Bar.  Two Colombian guys joined our table, so we eventually had a rather big party.  I asked one of the girls to dance, and felt rather inept at my lack of abilities, though she was happily doing her thing.  Salsa lessons were definitely in my future if I want to fully enjoy the dance style.

Rain was pouring down, but we eventually made a move for Barlovento, a nearby discoteca at the recommendation of one of the Colombian guys, though I had hoped to steer our group toward Le Pub de Octavia where I knew conversations could occur alongside dancing.

Stepping inside the club for the first time, I was met with booming music.  Deafening actually.  Exactly the kind of place where you’d better be up and dancing around to have a good time because conversations would have to entail yelling, and forget trying to communicate across a table.  The main bar was in a U-shape and was plenty wide enough to indicate it was built for people to dance upon.  A round of drinks were ordered, and the club mixed up the music between salsa, and typical rock and reggaeton offerings.  In these parts, you would classify the club as “crossover.”

Around 2 am, the house lights came on and we paid the bill and exited the club.  While the girls still though it was early, a Colombian guy outside informed us that even the clubs which stayed open until 4 am on the weekends would be closing early at 2:30 am due to the Easter holiday.  And that put an anti-climactic end end to our night out.

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El Pub de Octavia

Clint, Jamie, and I made our way the few blocks from La Octava to the newest offering in Parque Lleras, El Pub de Octavia.  There were a few people hanging around outside, smoking, and as we contemplated whether to go in, we were told by one of the guys that there was no cover.  With nothing to lose, we walked inside.  I was slightly surprised to see a packed bar given the tranquil exterior scene.

Inside El Pub de Octavia

The interior decor and bar were red, and I immediately noticed Paul, his roommate, and Scott from Casa Kiwi Hostel.  Soon after, I also noticed 3 beers on tap!  What a novelty.  Excited, I bought a round of beers for the guys.  We were soon drinking 3 Cordilleras which I later found out is brewed in Medellin, and yet to be a big enough operation for bottling.

The music alternated between rock (heavy stuff a la Marilyn Manson and Rage Against the Machine) and salsa, plus other genres too.  We met a bunch of girls near the bar, and had some fun dancing.  Around 3 am, I clocked out and devoured a cheeseburger at the nearby Mario Bros restaurant on Calle 10 before catching a taxi back to Envigado.  I left the other guys in good standing, and I while El Pub de Octavia was open  until 4 am, it had cleared out quite a bit since it’s peak of activity when we first arrived.

I really appreciated the beer on tap, and the music and a reasonable level.  There are plenty of other clubs where the music is too loud to have a conversation with someone without yelling, so it’s nice to know management at certain places can find a good middle ground between creating ambiance and blowing out eardrums.  The beer on tap was a nice change from bottles too.  I would certainly go back, and I have a feeling many others there that night would as well.

__________________

El Pub de Octavia – Carrera 36 #8a 110, El Poblado, Medellin

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Clint (left) and Jamie (right) enjoy shots at La Octava

Semana Santa spelled 4-day weekend for most Colombians, and those who didn’t have the opportunity to travel, made their way to Parque Lleras last Wednesday night to party late into the night.  I met up with Clint and Jamie in the park and we enjoyed the ambiance as we worked our way through a small bottle of Aguardiente.  I think we all enjoy the relaxed atmosphere when it comes to being allowed to drink in public.  The various neighborhood parks, often no larger than one square block, become popular meeting places and social scenes during the weekends.  Being able to buy a beer from a small shop allows everyone to save money over the prices within the bars and clubs.  This is especially true of the more costly places around Parque Lleras.

After we each had a few shots of the devilish libation, we headed towards La Octava bar, which is a perennial favorite.  The bar is medium sized, with some seating out front as well as inside near the bar and in a seperate larger room.  I first heard of it from Paul, the owner of Casa Kiwi Hostel.  I believe it’s his favorite, so he often recommends it to the backpackers passing through town.  Clint said he’d been there numerous times, and even if all the other bars were empty, there’d always be some people there.  I’d been once before with Martin and Amu, but it was a Tuesday night so rather low key by comparison.  Clint recommended the shots for their uniqueness, and unique they were.  I think he mentioned soy sauce as one of the ingredients.  Bleh!

La Octava is a rock bar, which is nice because I can recognize and understand the music.  While we were there, a guy mentioned a new bar was opening the same night, under the same management of La Octava, which would be full of Medellin’s prettiest girls.  The new bar, El Pub de Octavia, was just a few blocks away, and featured a mix of salsa and rock music.  The night in full swing, and the streets packed with people, we made our move toward the city’s next potential hotspot.

To be continued…

La Octava – Calle 8 #37a 49, Parque Lleras, Medellin

A good conversation piece

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David and I accompanied Martin to the bustling northern bus station so he could pick up a ticket to Cartagena for the following night.  The one way cost was about $50.  Then, we backtracked one metro stop and found Amu’s apartment.  Inside, he was sitting on the floor giving an English lesson to a group of four Colombian university students.  I began talking to another David, this one from southern Spain.  He was 8 months into a trip around Latin America, and fully enjoying it.  We were able to relate to each other’s experiences very well.  Daniel, from Boston, was couchsurfing at the apartment while on a shorter trip to Colombia, while eventually a man from Kenya (and his Colombian wife) arrived, followed by a Brazilian guy, and another German student studying abroad for a semester.  It turned into a very international little apartment party.

Everyone spoke Spanish better than me, however I was able to follow about 90% of what was being said.  I couldn’t speak fast enough to be able to participate much.  The offer for English to be spoken for my benefit was on the table, but I declined.  Everyone else seemed so in their element speaking Spanish.  All the same, I was ready to go sooner rather than later, but I knew the exposure was good for me.

Just as with traveling, I find it incredibly easy to meet new people here.  There is an undeniable quality about people’s accessibility when you meet them in a foreign environment.  Acquaintances become friends much faster.  When I think back to how many new friendships I developed in my adult life (let’s take the last 5 years at home), it is rather sobering.  I make some good friends through work, but otherwise, it seems very few new people would enter my life on a recurring basis.  Maybe I do something different when traveling.  Or other people are simply more open.  Probably a little of both.  The social experience of backpacking and traveling abroad is a big part of why I wanted to dedicate more than a year of my life to a grand adventure.

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Salsa show performers

Last Thursday I met up with Joe (Australia) and Sirley from Couchsurfing for a salsa show at the University of Medellin.  The headlining couples were from Cali, and both pairs were world champions.  Carlo Acrosalsa y Jimena were 2008 champs in Miami, while Genner y Yudy were the 2007 champs.  The theater was about 80% full, with most of the empty seats in the more expensive section close to the front.  We had paid $16 per ticket and had a great view.

Medellin Couchsurfers (from left) - me, Sirley, ?, and Nicholas

The show was hosted by a gregarious older man who loved to introduce each dance performance with a loud, rolling ¨salsa!¨  The two world champion couples performed about four or five times over the two hour show, and some of the acrobatics they did were amazing.  Watching the men’s knees move, you’d think they were made of rubber.  They were lightning quick.

Also rotating performances were nine couples.  I enjoyed them quite a bit too, and according to the choreographer, the women who would dance on their toes like ballerinas for some numbers, were the only ones in the world to do so (perhaps at least as it relates to salsa dancing).

But the show was stolen by a little kid.  He couldn’t have been older than 10 or 12, and his female partner was equally young.  He was like a young, Latin, Michael Jackson.  Simply amazing.  No photography was allowed during the show, so I cannot share pictures or video.  He danced at least as much as any of the others during the performance, if not more.  He even had a solo performance.  I think I saw a future world champion in the making.

Dancers mingle with the audience at the end

At the end of the show, after the bows were taken, the dancers started bringing men and women onto the stage to dance, much like the end of the movie Dirty Dancing.  I had a great time, and hope to catch a tango show next.

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Sarah (left), the night's entertainment (center) and me

I think of Mondays as my chance to highlight the cool new bar or club I visited over the weekend, however this past Friday was a much more personal and family-oriented experience. I met Sarah a little over a week ago during my all-too-short night of salsa dancing.  We met up again this past Friday afternoon at EAFIT.  She already had plans to meet Angela, one of her ten aunts, so I joined them for coffee.  Angela was taking English classes, so communication between the three of us wasn’t without it’s follies, what with me trying to speak Spanish, however it was a fun time.  Her Aunt invited me to her brother’s 60th birthday party that night, and I gladly accepted.

Back at the apartment, I asked Maira what to expect, and she shrugged as if there’s nothing different about a birthday party in Colombia then in the USA, but I was still a little anxious knowing I would be the only outsider amongst a big family event.  It required the assistance of a few helpful people, however I managed to find the home hosting the party, and made my entrance with the offering of white wine in hand.  I was barely inside the living room when I was handed my first little plastic cup of Aguardiente.  Two older men were sitting down, playing guitar and singing songs in Spanish, and everyone seemed happy.  Any insecurities melted away as the introductions were made.

Birthday hijinks

The whole family welcomed me.  I practiced my Spanish.  I was able to speak English with a few people.  People were singing along with the guitarists, arroz con pollo and homemade chocolate cake were served, and eventually everyone was dancing.  I must’ve danced with at least five different family members including Sarah’s mom, sister Luisa, Angela, and a short stint with a 1-year old on my lap.  I even received a few compliments which only reinforced my desire to get better!  Upon reflection, I realized how big a change it was from the not so long ago days when I use to be any party’s #1 wallflower.

Later in the night, as the cake was being presented, a man and a woman dressed up as a priest and a nun.  I don’t know why it happened, but they were quite funny.  I made my exit at the same time as Sarah and her sister, catching a taxi back home around 1 am while others were still having a good time.  This was exactly the kind of experience I was hoping for when I decided to stop traveling and get to know people and a culture more deeply.

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Late night pancake con queso

Friday night I went out with Martin, Diana, David and a few others to a salsa club near the Estadio metro station. I would give the name except I saw none at the entrance (update: it’s called El Tibiri). It was a small, basement level bar with a low ceiling, and poor air circulation. It was hot and steamy, which is exactly the way I want my salsa clubs! Since it is hard to salsa with a beer, I focused on my dancing first, with the help of one of the girls in our group. I am searching for a regular dance partner so I can make some solid progress week to week. I´d rather learn in the clubs than a dance studio.

The night ended early when 3 of the girls left, leaving David and I without partners/instructors. Martin and Diana stayed a little longer, as such a club is much more suitable for couples.

Possibly the best part of the night, was the lack of money required. I paid $1.60 for two beers, about $1 for a late-night pancake with cheese (they love their queso down here), and no more than a total of $4 for the metro and taxi ride home!

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Blue nightclub in El Poblado

Friday night, I finally made it to Blue, the rock club which is a backpacker favorite amongst those passing through Medellin.  It has a reputation for being the place to meet Colombian girls, mostly because it’s so loud, knowledge of Spanish is neither necessary, nor especially helpful.  During my month’s stay at Casa Kiwi Hostel, I heard no other bar or club name mentioned more often.

I met up with a group of Colombians from couchsurfing in Parque Poblado around 10pm.  The small city parks are popular hangouts for young people on the weekends.  The normally nice evening weather and ability to drink in public help foster these street parties.  Amongst the group were two Dianas, Juan Carlos, Jesusa, Natalia, and Yohann, a Finnish guy studying Spanish here for 3 months.

From left - Natalia, Diana, Jesusa, and Diana

The cover for Blue is 5,000 pesos ($2) and includes a free beer.  As usual for the start of a night in a Colombian club, everyone inside was sitting around tables ordering their beers, bottles of rum, and aguardiente.  I ran into my friend Luisa, who was at the club celebrating her friend’s birthday.  I spent much of the night shuffling between the two groups.  Luisa’s friends weren´t dancing as much, which suited me.

At 11:40pm, the DJ suddenly switched the rock music to electronic, fake smoke began to shoot out from the ceiling, green lasers beamed across the club, and people began to get up and dance.  It was so abrupt, it was almost funny to witness.  It was clear all the Colombians knew it was coming too.

Lillian and Andrew

Towards the end of the night, I was talking to Luisa when a girl at the next table asked me to take a photo of her and her friends.  I wasn´t standing there by accident, as I had noticed her when we first arrived at the club, mostly because she was singing so expressively to music I could actually recognize.  I took the photo, and a minute or two later, asked for one with her in return.  A conversation resulted, and after I mentioned being an English teacher, she said she needed to pass the TOEFL test soon.  Andrew, her friend, asked about the cost of lessons for all three of them.  I exchanged numbers with Valentina, hopeful I might have recruited new students in the unlikeliest of places.

People slowly started leaving Blue around 1:30-2am.  I hung around a little longer, as it stays open until 3am, an hour later then the bars in Medellin.  The taxi from El Poblado back to the apartment ran 7,000 pesos ($2.80).  Overall, I prefer the vibe and music of Trilogia more, though it is costlier.  Blue would be great from time to time as it is nice to hear music I´m familiar with, however I am not living in Medellin to be reminded of life as I know it in the USA!

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The house band at Trilogia

Saturday night offered another opportunity to visit a new bar in Medellin.  Rodrigo’s sister was celebrating her birthday so I met up with them, their friends, and Martin at Triologia near the Industriales metro station.  The cover was 12,000 pesos (about $5).  We arrived around 10pm so people were still filtering into the bar.  A circular stage was set up for the band, and we grabbed a table nearby (though it might’ve been reserved in advance as is common).  The waitresses brought by a steady stream of popcorn for snacking, and the table ordered a bottle of rum, while I and a few others went with Colombian beers.

Rodrigo and his sister (standing) enjoying the night

As more of the birthday girl’s friends arrived, she played the consummate host, presenting them to everyone already at the table.  About an hour later, the band took the stage to a packed bar, and began rocking out.  The band’s playlist represented a mix of genres, which kept things lively.  Some people would dance to salsa while others preferred meringue.  I was happy to hear some rock music, including Satisfaction by the Rolling Stones and (by request from Isabelle in our group) Sweet Child of Mine by Guns ‘N Roses.

The birthday girl with Martin (right) and me

During one song, long balloons were handed out to the crowd, which immediately began to wave them around.  The more experienced people started to twist them into hats and intricate designs.  They also made great tools for flirting with your neighbor.  The band must’ve played 3-4 sets over the course of the night, and by about 2:30am, I was running out of steam.  I said my goodbyes, and caught a taxi back to the apartment in Envigado for 7,000 pesos, plus a late-night charge of 2,000 pesos not reflected on the meter ($3.60 total).

I had a great night at Trilogia.  It reminded me a lot of the night I went out with Luisa and her friends to the Kukaramakara Club in the same part of town.  Trilogia might edge the other out though, as it is smaller, and therefore wherever you sit in the bar, you can be close to the stage.  And did I mention the stage rotates!

Trilogia Bar

Address:  Carrera 43G #24-08, Medellin

Phone: (57)(4) 262-6375

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One big balcony

The nightlife in Medellin is amazing, at least as far as this gringo is concerned. And this past Saturday, I was invited to a birthday party at Paul’s apartment in El Poblado. Paul is the American owner of Casa Kiwi Hostel where I had been staying for my first 4 weeks in the city. We piled into his truck, about 12 of us, and drove no more than a few minutes further up the side of the mountain.

We unloaded the truck which was full of beer and pinatas, and stepped into his gigantic, Cribs-style, 3-floor apartment with an almost audacious balcony. It was huge. Paul and his roommate were great hosts, and soon had music playing outside, while we snacked and drank.  Eventually another truck load of hostel guests arrived, and the party was in full swing.

Medellin skyline from El Poblado

The view of the city from the balcony was awesome, and within the apartment, windows panned across the walls to ensure wherever you were, there was a stunning panoramic view to be had. The cost for such extravagance by western standards was about the price I paid for a studio apartment in Arlington, Virginia back in 2003. If you had the same apartment in the upper East Side of Manhattan, well, it would probably cost tens of thousands of dollars per month in rent.

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First, I had an impromptu meeting with Adriaan, editor-in-chief of Colombia Reports. I learned a little more about how he arrived in Medellin, and found his story similar to my own. After getting some food and coffee, he took me to one of the poorer barrios where we had another drink and played some billiards. While I forgot the name of the specific barrio, he assured me it was the stomping ground of Colombia’s future beauty queens. We already have plans to begin working with one another.

I then took the metro from the city center toward Envigado, where I met up with my friend Martin to view an available room in the same apartment where he lives. He rents from a Colombian university student, and while the walk from the metro is a little longer than I´d prefer (10-12 minutes), the apartment itself is beautiful! Well furnished, with a modern kitchen, clean bathroom, balcony, cable TV, and pool. If my ASUS laptop’s AC adapter hadn’t been stolen two weeks ago at the hostel, I would also have wi-fi internet access.

At Casa Kiwi Hostel, I am paying about $49 per week. If I take the apartment, I can get that down to $40 per week, with a private (albeit small) bedroom. And since my status living in Medellin is still week to week, the flexibility to pay as such would be great.

After a quick bite to eat at the apartment, we took the metro to Florista and found the karaoke bar where the Couchsurfing group was celebrating the birthday of Nacho. I had attended his ´going away´party my first Saturday in Medellin and it was a blast. On this night, I saw some familiar faces, and met several new Colombians and travelers. Andrea from the University of Antioquia, and Fernando (who resembled Green Day’s Billy Joe), both offered to help me find cheap apartments near their school ($20/week). And Chad, who arrived in Medellin two days earlier, had already found his first student to tutor! He offered to help me get set up with classifieds and/or marketing online, which sounded promising. I continue to hear private tutoring is a more lucrative route than working for a school. For one thing, you do not need a work Visa to begin earning money. On the other hand, without a work Visa, your time in the country is limited to 6 months (and I am fast approaching the 2-month mark).

My future prospects looked a few shades brighter after a successful and unexpected day of networking!

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Couchsurfing Party in Sabaneta

Couchsurfing, for those who have yet to discover it, is an online social network geared toward travelers.  The network allows you to post a profile and either off to host a traveler in your home, contact someone while traveling abroad to stay in their home, or otherwise meet for coffee or a drink.  The obvious benefit to having a place to stay abroad is the savings in money, however for those who get involved, they soon find the cultural benefits far outweigh the monetary value.

Drinks with Sirley (my right) and her friends

I originally signed up for the service in late 2006, in the hopes of hosting travelers before I left on my trip around the world.  I wanted to see what it would be like to have a stranger from another country show up at my door.  What it would feel like to show him or her around my home town, or at least point the person in the right direction to make their life a little easier.  I was surprised to find how much hosting someone felt similar to traveling abroad myself.  On my trip, I have been a guest with about 10 different people, including a French doctor on Tahiti, a professor in Singapore, a doctor in Cape Town, and Canadian interns in Geneva.  All of the experiences have been wonderful, and the hospitality shown by each host has been eye-opening for me.

Meeting two other American couchsurfers in Medellin

When I began to search for  a couch in Bogota from Spain,  I was surprised to find a high membership in the big cities of Colombia!  I spent my first 6 nights with Laura, a university student, and her roommate.  She took me around the city, and made me feel right at home.  It was my first indication of the friendliness of Colombians.

I arrived in Medellin without a couch to surf, but I did arrange to meet up with a variety of people from the site for drinks and walking tours.  First, Jesusa spent a few hours walking me past some of the government buildings downtown.  The next night, I met up with Sirley and her friends for dinner and drinks in a Parque LLeras restaurant.  I reunited with Jesusa for a free dance performance at the Teatro Lido on a Friday night, and spent the following night at a Couchsurfing going away party for one of their own.  Another weekend, it was salsa and meringue lessons with Luisa at Kukaramakara Club.  I think you get the point.

Luisa (blue) invited me out salsa dancing for her friend's birthday

Couchsurfing, and its Medellin Group, is a way to access the local culture of a place without knowing the language, as the majority of members in any given country tend to speak at least a little English.  And if you intend to live in Medellin, or any place with a similarly strong Couchsurfing community, your ability to build a social circle inclusive of the locals is made far easier.  Partying, networking, socializing, cultural exchanges.  It is all within reach, so sign up today!

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Dancers at Mango's Discoteca

Three weeks after arriving in Medellin, I finally made it to uber club Discoteca Mango’s. I went along with Max, an American I met at the hostel, this past Friday. The taxi ride from El Poblado was about 10,000 pesos ($4), and it turned out 10:30pm was a dreadfully early hour to arrive. The cover charge was a reasonable 15,000 pesos ($6), though we soon found the drinks expensive. Bottles of beer were 10,000 pesos apiece.

All of the staff were decked out in wild west costumes, and one of several midgets was among the women greeting people at the front entrance. The woman selling tickets said it would get more crowded around 11:30pm, and later we found out Saturday nights are more popular and busy than Friday nights.

View from behind the main stage

We pulled up a few stools at the central bar, which was clearly set up for dancers to be jumping around on later in the night. From there, we had the rear view of the main stage. Flat screen TV’s flashed advertisements for the upcoming Mardi Gras theme night on February 27, while later in the night, typical images from New Orleans of women flashing for beads were shown.

Max and I had a few beers, and then the show began with two pairs of dancers dropping from the ceiling above the stage on a fireman’s/stripper’s pole. They really know how to make an entrance at Mango’s! The two couples then proceeded to dance salsa on the main stage and at other smaller stages around the cavernous club.

As time passed, the club started to fill out, though it was at maybe 50% of capacity at its peak. While there were more Colombians than tourists, there was the clear presence of white Western men and their Colombian wifes, girlfriends, or escorts.

The midgets at Mango's

Soon, the salsa dancers were replaced by troupes of go-go dancers, both male and female, dressed in various matching outfits such as faux policia. They all rotated around the various stages, dancing and entertaining. Even the midgets got into the act!

The men’s bathroom was a sight to be seen, complete with water faucets the shape and size of a horses’ heads. Overall, the interior decor was far more comprehensive than I expected.

A woman with a big digital camera asked for a photo with Max, myself, and Yasmine, a Colombian girl we had met. The best photos of the night are then uploaded to a gallery on the club’s website.

Go-go dancers on stage at Mango's

Later, Max and I did a little dancing of our own, and eventually left around 4am, a half hour before closing. Overall, I would recommend Mango’s for a Saturday night visit, or on one of their theme nights, which will feature a higher cover, but a lot more people.

Mango’s Disco

Address:  Carerra 42 No. 67A-121, Itagui

Phone:  (4) 277-6123

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