View toward the San Diego neighborhood in Medellin.

A year and three days after leaving Medellin in 2009, I once again rode a shuttle bus from Jose Maria Cordova International Airport down into my favorite semi-tropical valley.  Unlike my first visit, I was arriving in the evening, so instead of being greeted by green mountains and blue skies, I saw twinkling city lights all around.

It was the eve of Colombia’s bicentennial Independence Day celebration, and I missed by a few hours, what appears to have been a breathtaking fireworks display.

As the bus winded its way down the mountain roads, we passed people who had driven up to scenic viewpoints to watch the pyrotechnics.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9BtzdAwllg

The Aries shuttle dropped us off at a taxi stand near the regional Enrique Olaya Herrera Airport.  The scene was chaotic, as tired passengers matched up with drivers anxious to earn some money.  I got in the first cab, and presented the driver with the Itagui address of my friend (and Go Backpacking contributor) Troy.  The driver seemed to think either I, or my destination, was too much trouble, and kicked me out.  A second taxi also declined my fare.  The third time was a charm.

Upon reaching Troy’s apartment, I took the cash out of my wallet and peeled off enough pesos to cover the fare, plus a friendly tip.  I must not have put my wallet back in my jean pocket, because by the time I got up to Troy’s place, and dropped my bags in his room, I realized I didn’t have my wallet anymore.

Ironically, I had placed the wad of pesos in my pocket, leaving only my E*Trade ATM card, health insurance card, and Virginia driver’s license, along with a business card in the actual wallet.  Realizing I’d dropped my wallet, I looked down on the street from the balcony and didn’t see anything; the taxi was long gone, and I didn’t have a record of its license.

I cursed, and beat myself up for such a silly mistake.  I’ve never (ever) lost a wallet before, and suddenly I was experiencing deja vu, as last year when I arrived in Medellin, I didn’t have my ATM card as it had been stolen in Barcelona a few weeks prior.

I met one of Troy’s roommates, Wilson, his dog Toby, and his friend from Cali who was also visiting.  After a beer or two, and Troy’s offer to lend me money until I could get a replacement card FedEx’d to me, my blood pressure began to decline, and I spent the rest of the night exchanging stories with my future roommate.

July 20th - Independence Day concert in Itagui.

The next day, being a national holiday, meant a lot of shops were closed, however I made my way to Santa Fe, Medellin’s newest, and largest, mall.  Inside, I eventually found my way to an internet shop where I was able to send an international fax to my bank, E*Trade, authorizing them to reissue my debit card (what a pain, right?).

On my way back to Troy’s apartment that afternoon, I stumbled across an outdoor concert in a nearby park to commemorate Independence Day.  A large crowd was hanging out, watching and listening, as the sun went down.

It felt good to be back.

_______

Written by David Lee

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The living room in my current apartment.

My bedroom in my current apartment.

1. Do your research. Colombian cities are organized into barrios (neighborhoods) and even neighborhoods in close physical proximity can be very different from one another.  Walk around the areas you are interested in at various times of day – talk to locals, look around and take note of the general ambiance of the place.  If possible, talk to someone who has lived in the city for awhile to get a sense of the different areas.
2. Prioritize. From my apartment I can walk to the gym, grocery store, a cafe, the soccer stadium, public transportation, and many bars/restaurants.  I am a ten minute cab ride from the main restaurant/going out area in Cali.  However, I commute to work about 30-45 minutes one way five days a week. For me, this is the perfect balance, however for others the commute to school would be too much. Decide what’s important to you and go with it.
3. Know your stratus. In Colombia, services like gas, energy and water are charged based on usage and based on strata. This means that people in more popular areas of a city generally pay more than people in less desirable parts of town.  For example, in Cali, people living in the barrio of El Ingenio (Status 6) pay considerably more than people living in the barrio of San Fernando (Status 4).
4. Administration. Many apartments in Colombia have administration fees that you pay in addition to your rent. These fees are generally for building maintenance and to pay the salary of the door person (or people). An administration fee will cost you a bit more, but if security is a concern for you, then a place with a 24 hour door person is a good idea.
5. Put on your walking shoes. While some owners will advertise in local newspapers (like El Pais in Cali) and foreigners will advertise places like the Lonely Planet travel forum, the majority of apartments are rented by signs in the windows. The best way to find a place is to walk around a neighborhood you like, write down phone numbers, and call the owners to inquire further.  If you like what you hear about number of rooms, price range, etc., then arrange to meet up so they can show you the apartment. Most will arrange to meet you that day or the next. (Note of caution: Call on weekdays as not much business is conducted on the weekends in Colombia)
6. Know your budget. On average most teachers at my school are paying around $175 – $200 USD per month for decent apartments, however you can find places considerably cheaper or considerably more expensive depending on your taste. If you plan to renew your lease after a few months or a year, try negotiating a lower price with your landlord.
7. Balcony = essential. You didn’t move to Colombia so you could bundle up next to the fireplace on cold winter nights. This country is absolutely stunning and the climate is generally warm (even in Bogota it heats up during the day!).  Basically, in my opinion, this beauty is best viewed from the comfort of your own hammock. Finding an apartment with a great balcony is not rare, so go out there and get it!
8. Find a co-signer. You will need a Colombian to co-sign your lease and basically give his/her word that you will be a reasonable tenant. If you find a job here, then often times they will help you with the paperwork and be the co-signers. Without employment, find a trustworthy friend to back you up.
9. Habla en español. Many apartments or houses are rented by individuals as opposed to large real estate corporations, which means the likeliness of the owner speaking English is somewhat limited. Bring your dictionary or a friend if your language skills are not quite up to par yet. Regardless of where you are at in your Spanish skills, most Colombians will appreciate any attempt you make at speaking to them, so give it a try!
10. If at first you do not succeed, try, try again. Walking around trying to see apartments may be frustrating at first, because you will see a lot of places and the “perfect” one may not appear until the 5th or 10th or 20th place you see. However, there are many options and they will all have something unique to offer, so if at first you do not find the place of your dreams, try again the next day.

Happy hunting!

Enjoy the beauty that is Colombia!

_______

Written by Kristin Radermacher

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The front of JD's house in Santa Elana.

The view from one of the many balconies.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I found a company on one of the job sites I had listed here.  The interview with the company went well, but they didn’t have a position for me right away.  I waited about three weeks before they finally had something for me.  I am now working with an outsourcing company that does appointment setting and customer service for a handful of companies in the United States and Canada.  I really lucked out by getting in with a fairly new company that is growing super fast.  I’ve already gotten a promotion and a raise, with another raise coming before the end of the year.  Pretty lucky for me.  I will be working on getting a visa next month, and I’ll let you guys know how that goes.  I’m glad that I should be done with the DAS office for good!

I’ve also had to move yet again.  I’m still in Envigado.  I’ve lived in three different apartments in two different neighborhoods here, and I’m still completely loving it.  I am pretty convinced this is the best place to live in Medellin.  I am in the part of Envigado called La Magnolia.  It’s super safe.  I’ve walked from my friend’s house completely drunk at 2am and had no reason to be worried about anyone bothering me.  It’s a lively place, that is still quite enough at night to sleep soundly.  It’s a quick bus ride over to El Poblado or to the Metro, and you can get everything within walking distance.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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The view from my new home on an atypical rainy day.

I moved into a new apartment recently, and I am so happy in the new neighborhood.  I am still in Envigado, but I am much closer to the center now.  The stores on every corner include markets of all sizes, Internet cafes, bars, restaurants, bakeries, and even an ice cream shop.  I have little need to leave the neighborhood any more.  There are even some great clubs in Envigado that I am within walking distance of now.

Finding an apartment can be quite a task in Medellin.  My roommate handled all of the searching and negotiating, but I could tell it was a frustrating process for him.  Two different apartments that we were looking at got rented out just before we decided to apply for them.

The place we are in now is one of the nicest places I have ever lived.  It is three bedrooms, three baths, and has a gas water heater. It has the typical floors of ceramic tile, a patio for hanging clothes to dry, and a wonderful balcony (about twice the width of most I’ve seen in Medellin).  The entire apartment rents for $750,000 COP, which does not include any of the utilities.

Check out http://www.compartoapto.com if you’re looking for a room in Medellin.  (I have never used this site.  Please use your brain when finding a roommate.)

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I utilized couchsurfers to find a room to rent. Many people were very kind and helped me find the right spot. In the process, I met a few really great people with whom I hope I can have some grand adventures. I ended up in Envigado, with a guy from Virginia. At first, I was hesitant to move in with a gringo. I realized that because I don’t speak any Spanish, that some potentially bad situations could be avoided by living with someone that I could communicate with easily. Once I get a bit more settled, and learn at least some basic Spanish, I will revisit the idea of living with a Colombian.

The apartment we are in is extremely different from where I’m used to living, but so far I love it. The building is at the end of a small dead-end street. There is always music on, and the neighbors play board games in the street. There are a few large grocery stores about five minutes away, and there is a small store just down the street. (Though, I’m convinced there is a small store down the street from everywhere in Medellin.)

Right now, I’m getting ready to go camping with a few people that I met while finding my new place. It’s going to be quite a trip, with five people and two dogs. I’m excited to see if camping in Medellin is anything like the camping I used to do in Idaho. We would usually go out with a few cases of beer and plenty of marshmallows. Right now, everyone is keeping the plans a surprise for me.

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What does this mean for me?

I have the apartment to myself for the next few weeks!

Oddly, the idea is actually a bit unsettling.  After living in hostels and hotels for a year and a half, and then having roommates whose company I’ve enjoyed and appreciated for another few months, the thought of living in a quiet apartment seems less than ideal.

Don’t get me wrong, I loved living along for the 5 years or so before I left the USA, but maybe something has changed with me after all the traveling I’ve done.  I grew accustomed to always having another traveler, and potential friend, within arms reach if I wanted to make the effort.

Maybe I’ll host a dinner party.  Or a salsa practice.  Movie night anyone?

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In an effort to provide useful, current, first hand information to foreigners contemplating or planning a move to Medellin, Colombia, I created a questionnaire to collect the experiences of those already here.  Now you can see what Scott from the USA thinks of living in affluent El Poblado for the last 5 months, or Amu from Germany has to say about living in grittier Centro (the city center).

If you currently live in Medellin, and are reading right now, please take a  few minutes to fill out the questionnaire.

In the future, I also plan to add some general information about the various neighborhoods as well.

Your feedback about this new feature, and the blog in general, is always appreciated.

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One big balcony

The nightlife in Medellin is amazing, at least as far as this gringo is concerned. And this past Saturday, I was invited to a birthday party at Paul’s apartment in El Poblado. Paul is the American owner of Casa Kiwi Hostel where I had been staying for my first 4 weeks in the city. We piled into his truck, about 12 of us, and drove no more than a few minutes further up the side of the mountain.

We unloaded the truck which was full of beer and pinatas, and stepped into his gigantic, Cribs-style, 3-floor apartment with an almost audacious balcony. It was huge. Paul and his roommate were great hosts, and soon had music playing outside, while we snacked and drank.  Eventually another truck load of hostel guests arrived, and the party was in full swing.

Medellin skyline from El Poblado

The view of the city from the balcony was awesome, and within the apartment, windows panned across the walls to ensure wherever you were, there was a stunning panoramic view to be had. The cost for such extravagance by western standards was about the price I paid for a studio apartment in Arlington, Virginia back in 2003. If you had the same apartment in the upper East Side of Manhattan, well, it would probably cost tens of thousands of dollars per month in rent.

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Envigado Apartment

I finally made the move from hostel to private residence after much debate and delay. If I am going to be living in Medellin, I need to act like it instead of hiding out within the safe and comfortable confines of the hostel.

Ultimately, I was getting tired of sharing a room with up to 5 other people, who could be sleeping at any given hour of the day, requiring me to avoid using the lights or making noise if I need to get something from my backpack.

Also, the lack of privacy was going to be an issue, especially as I continue to build relationships. And the kitchen was in no way inspiring me to cook for myself, which is the healthier and more affordable alternative to eating out every meal. I won´t miss the construction noise either.

The room I am renting

I am paying $40 per month for the above-pictured room which seems reasonable to me given the nice apartment in which it can be found. I found it via my friend Martin who lives there too. Maira, the Colombian university student who rents her two extra rooms, is a sweetheart too. She speaks English well, and is OK with me paying week to week right now.

A view from the apartment

The apartment is Envigado, which is in the southern part of the city, however I can take a bus up Las Vegas Avenue for 50 cents to the Poblado metro if I do not want to walk to the closer Ayura station.  It is near both an Exito and Carrefour, the Walmart-type chain stores here in Colombia.

Forcing myself to leave the preppy, well-to-do confines of El Poblado is also a good way for me to experience other parts of the city, although Martin says our apartment is in a well-to-do neighborhood too!

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