View toward the San Diego neighborhood in Medellin.

A year and three days after leaving Medellin in 2009, I once again rode a shuttle bus from Jose Maria Cordova International Airport down into my favorite semi-tropical valley.  Unlike my first visit, I was arriving in the evening, so instead of being greeted by green mountains and blue skies, I saw twinkling city lights all around.

It was the eve of Colombia’s bicentennial Independence Day celebration, and I missed by a few hours, what appears to have been a breathtaking fireworks display.

As the bus winded its way down the mountain roads, we passed people who had driven up to scenic viewpoints to watch the pyrotechnics.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=B9BtzdAwllg

The Aries shuttle dropped us off at a taxi stand near the regional Enrique Olaya Herrera Airport.  The scene was chaotic, as tired passengers matched up with drivers anxious to earn some money.  I got in the first cab, and presented the driver with the Itagui address of my friend (and Go Backpacking contributor) Troy.  The driver seemed to think either I, or my destination, was too much trouble, and kicked me out.  A second taxi also declined my fare.  The third time was a charm.

Upon reaching Troy’s apartment, I took the cash out of my wallet and peeled off enough pesos to cover the fare, plus a friendly tip.  I must not have put my wallet back in my jean pocket, because by the time I got up to Troy’s place, and dropped my bags in his room, I realized I didn’t have my wallet anymore.

Ironically, I had placed the wad of pesos in my pocket, leaving only my E*Trade ATM card, health insurance card, and Virginia driver’s license, along with a business card in the actual wallet.  Realizing I’d dropped my wallet, I looked down on the street from the balcony and didn’t see anything; the taxi was long gone, and I didn’t have a record of its license.

I cursed, and beat myself up for such a silly mistake.  I’ve never (ever) lost a wallet before, and suddenly I was experiencing deja vu, as last year when I arrived in Medellin, I didn’t have my ATM card as it had been stolen in Barcelona a few weeks prior.

I met one of Troy’s roommates, Wilson, his dog Toby, and his friend from Cali who was also visiting.  After a beer or two, and Troy’s offer to lend me money until I could get a replacement card FedEx’d to me, my blood pressure began to decline, and I spent the rest of the night exchanging stories with my future roommate.

July 20th - Independence Day concert in Itagui.

The next day, being a national holiday, meant a lot of shops were closed, however I made my way to Santa Fe, Medellin’s newest, and largest, mall.  Inside, I eventually found my way to an internet shop where I was able to send an international fax to my bank, E*Trade, authorizing them to reissue my debit card (what a pain, right?).

On my way back to Troy’s apartment that afternoon, I stumbled across an outdoor concert in a nearby park to commemorate Independence Day.  A large crowd was hanging out, watching and listening, as the sun went down.

It felt good to be back.

_______

Written by David Lee

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So why am I heading back there? Here’s my story…

I’ve been working as a Spanish teacher in Jersey since I graduated in January of 2009. My job is a dream, my colleagues have slowly become good friends and my students are hysterical. I pictured myself staying at H—— School until my retirement but then came the most painful school budget cuts that the state of New Jersey has ever seen. Unfortunately for me (and for my students), the Spanish program was cut in half and being a non-tenured teacher put me on the chopping block.

I was devastated… but not for long. I had always dreamed of living in Medellin because I wanted to surround myself with its amazing landscapes, friendly people, delicious foods, and crazy nightlife. In mid April, after weeks of uncertainty at work, I received the best advice from the wisest woman I know. My mother, born and raised in Envigado, consoled me with these words, “Cuando una puerta se cierra, se abren muchas”. (Let me translate this for all of my Spanish challenged friends out there; When one door closes, many others open up!)

With that I took a quick trip over the Hudson River to visit the Colombian Embassy. In less than 2 hours I received my Colombian citizenship, passport, and “cedula”. Ironically enough, it took my mother 15 years to get her American citizenship & passport. This was yet another clear sign for me pointing directly towards MEDELLIN!

So here I am today… I find myself with a one-way ticket to Jose Maria Córdoba airport in Medellin, Colombia. I’m ecstatic to be sharing my journey with Medellin Living and everyone out there who’s interested in traveling to the undiscovered beauty that is Medellin.

I’ll be writing about my day-to-day life as I transition from an American citizen to a Colombian citizen. I’ll also be writing about some volunteer work I plan on taking part in, finding a job as an English teacher, local rock bars and exciting opportunities in and around Medellin. Enjoy!

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Written by Ana Rodriguez

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A Little Background Information

The president of Colombia is elected by popular vote to a four year term.  Many past presidents have been elected from the traditional two parties, liberal and conservative.  However, Colombia does have an established multi-party system, so candidates from non-dominant parties also have a reasonable chance of being elected.  The first round of elections happened yesterday, May 30, with 12 different candidates on the ballot.  Since no one candidate received more than 50% of the vote, there will be a runoff election with the two leading candidates, Santos and Mockus on Sunday, June 20.

Current Political Environment

Well known as a tough conservative and a rare US ally in Latin America, current president Alvaro Uribe will leave after eight years (2002 -2010) as the Colombian president.  He remains well loved by his people for his strong attitude towards the guerrilla and illegal drug trafficking.  In fact, until about six months ago, many expected Uribe to run for a third term.  However, after the Colombian court refected Uribe’s referendum to change to Colombian constitution in favor of a third term, he gracefully withdrew from the race.

Leading Candidates

The front runners in this election could not be more different from one another in their past experiences, their parties, or their vision for Colombia’s future.  While both could be positive influences in Colombia’s future, only one will truly be chosen to lead the country into a post-Uribe era.

Juan Manuel Santos

Official campaign photo for Santos.

With the slogan “Para seguir avanzando, Santos Presidente”  (To continue moving forward, Santos for president), the ex-defense minister to the Uribe administraction hopes to continue the legacy of El Partido de U (The Unity Party).  According to his Colombia Reports profile, “Juan Manuel Santos is a Colombian politician, journalist and economist, who comes from one of Colombia’s most influential family dynasties. He is the great-nephew of former Colombian President Eduardo Santos, who was the owner of newspaper El Tiempo, and grandson of journalist Eduardo Santos. He is also the cousin of current Vice President Francisco Santos.”  Santos is the obvious choice for Colombians who support Uribe and want to see his agenda followed fairly closely.  Followers can read updates from the candidate on Twitter @UneteaSantos

Antanas Mockus

Mockus campaigns at a rally with supports in the classic green of his campaign.

Amidst the well recognized symbols of sunflowers and pencils, is Antanas Mockus, with his slogan “Con educacion, todo se puede” (With education, everything is possible).  As the candidate for the Partido Verde (Green Party) Mockus has been called “the Colombian Obama” for a number of reasons, including his “underdog” status (as described here), his “anti-politician” nature, his “outsider” status as someone who typically avoids the typically corrupt political scene of Latin America, and also his use of social media (Facebook and Twitter @AntanasMockus) to connect with voters.  He believes that ideas win votes. As his Colombia Reports profile states, Mockus is known throughout Colombia for his unconventional tactics as Bogota’s two term mayor.  Despite being diagnosed with Parkinson’s disease during the campaign, Mockus has run a strong and determined campaign.

My friend Stephanie and me (left) at a Mockus rally in Cali, Colombia.

I had the opportunity to attend a Mockus rally here in Cali.  For me, the excitement and enthusiasm radiating from the supporters at the rally really emphasized for me the spirit of Colombia and the pride people have in their country. Hooray democracy! For a full account of the rally, read my own blog post on the event.

First Round Results (As reported by elecciones.com.co)

Juan Manuel Santos – 46.56%
Antanas Mockus – 21.49%
German Vargas Lleras – 10.13%
Gustavo Petro – 9.16%
Noemi Sanin – 6.14%
Rafael Pardo – 4.38%

Santos shows his supporters he is all smiles after receiving a shockingly high percentage of initial votes in Sunday's first round election.

Yesterday as the results came in, it became clear that Juan Manuel Santos won the first round with about 47% of the popular vote.  Today, the two candidates will meet with their teams as they aim to make the most of the next 20 days in yet another race to the finish.  While anything can certainly happen, many are commenting that Mockus’ percentage is too far behind Santos’ for him to catch up.  However, only time will tell us the fate of Colombia’s future…

A cartoon from Colombia Reports depicts "The End of Sunflower Season" as Santos crushes the well known symbol of his opponent Mockus.

Further Reading

For more information by people who know way more about politics than I do, please investigate one of these reliable sources. Happy reading

• El Tiempo, Juan Manuel Santo se ruene a esta hora con el presidente Uribe en la Casa de Nariño (Español)
• Washington Times, Colombian Presidential Vote Set for June Runoff (English)
• CBS, Colombia Runoff: Ex Defense Minister vs. Mockus (English)
• Boston Globe, FARC foe will Face Runoff in Colombia (English)
• New York Times, Ex-defense Chief Leads Colombia (English)

_______

Written by Kristin Radermacher

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Melody in Jardin Botanico

Two years ago, I was offered a job working with Colombian students who were going to participate in an English immersion program at my university. I was just beginning my graduate studies in TESOL and was happy to accept the job, but I was extremely curious about these Colombian students.

First of all, I wasn’t entirely sure where Colombia was (somewhere in South America? Maybe in the jungle?) and all I could remember ever hearing about Colombia were news reports about drugs and Plan Colombia and cartels and paramilitaries and Pablo Escobar and… well, nothing that made me want to jump on a plane and check it out, if you know what I mean.

That summer made me reconsider and reevaluate all of my preconceptions about Colombia. The students (between ages  9 and 14) that I worked with were clever and funny. They spoke English and played soccer and tried to talk me into taking them to Taco Bell every day. They certainly didn’t act like children who had been brought up in the middle of conflict and drug violence. They had iPods and laptops and cameras that were nicer than mine. In fact, within ten minutes of meeting them I realized that I knew absolutely nothing about the real Colombia.

I’ve lived in Colombia now since January of this year, and before that I was here for a lovely 6 week stint as a volunteer teacher last summer. I may not be Colombian or speak the language perfectly (yet), but I definitely know where the country is, how to cook an arepa, and why jugo de lulo is the best thing you’ve never heard of in Colombia.

Swinging in Salento, a small town in the coffee region.

I’m going to help contribute to Medellin Living by writing about traveling opportunities in (and near) Colombia, and I’ll also be writing helpful tips regarding living in Colombia, such as how to laundry at an affordable price.

While I don’t currently live in Medellin, I do live in Pereira, which is also in the “Paisa” region of Colombia. As Pereira is just a quick 35 minute plane ride away from Medellin, I love to visit and will be happy to share my adventures with you.

Hasta luego!

p.s. If you’re interested in hearing a more personal account of my time in Colombia and Pereira, please check out my blog at www.barelyamerican.blogspot.com.

_________

Written by Melody Stratton

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Fast forward to November 2008 and I boarded a plane in Geneva which took me to Argentina, and apart from a couple of months, I’ve been in South America ever since. I’ve travelled most of South America, at least most of what you could call the backpacker trail, spent a few months doing voluntary work in Buenos Aires, and this past January I arrived in Colombia.

I’d heard a lot about Colombia – even before leaving Geneva, 2 Colombians I worked with told me not to go, at least not alone. Once I got to South America however, I started hearing much more, and only good things. I knew it had to be on the list. I’m travelling with my girlfriend who I met in Argentina, but who is originally from Cali, so it’s been wonderful to be able to see Colombia through the eyes of a local and discover things for myself at the same time.

Thanks to Dave, and through my posts here over the next few weeks, I hope to share with you some of the amazing places I have seen in this great country, but also write about the general context of the country so that hopefully you can get a better understanding of what makes Colombia tick and how to make the most of your time here.

My name is Jonathan Evans, I have my own blog where you can follow my past (and future) adventures and I’m also on Twitter. I look forward to your comments and hope you enjoy what I have to say!

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Later that weekend, I was browsing the New York Times Global Edition, when I came across this article. Author Simon Romero wrote a stunning piece about a woman in Cali who provides a home for some 800 animals rescued largely from drug traffickers and paramilitary warlords.  Operating from her home in Villa Lorena, located just up a small road in the slum-ish neighborhood of Floralia, Ana Julia Torres has been caring for animals like these for over 16 years. (For all the details, check out the whole article, and watch the accompanying video.)

By the time I finished the article I was near tears, which surprised me.  I have been living in Colombia for almost eight months now, and have come to terms with many of the issues here that still need to be improved.  On top of that, I am not really an animal lover. I didn’t have a pet as a child, so even domestic animals sort of creep me out. Why did I feel so affected by this article?

Then it hit me. I live in the city where this is happening, and I had no idea. Not even the slightest clue that this was happening. Yes, I live here, but will I ever feel like I truly know Colombia? Will I ever truly understand the culture, the politics, the government, the history. There is so much to learn! Will I always be just another tourist, no matter how long I call this place my home?

There is this part of me that knows that I work here, I get paid in Colombian pesos, have a Colombian ID card, pay bills here, and even go to the dentist here. Essentially, I do almost all the basic things that other residents of Cali, Colombia do.

Then again, I don’t vote here, and I never will. I will probably always speak Spanish with a gringa accent. I don’t usually respond to the question “How are you?” with “Fine, thanks to God.” I have strawberry blond hair, pale skin, and I do not feel a strong allegiance to any one particular national soccer team.  I spend my free time traveling around other parts of Colombia.

In so many ways I will always be a Minnesota girl with an adventurous spirit, which is great…there is just always this part of me that wants to dig deeper, to expand my knowledge base, to enrich my experience in as many ways as possible.

Fellow travelers, what do you think? Are we only ever residents of our home country? How long do you live in a place before you can call it home? Can you ever really understand a culture that you only experience as a tourist?

_______

Written by Kristin Radermacher

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With Allison, my first visitor in Colombia!, as we overlook Cali. (December 2009)

In May 2009 I graduated from university with a degree in Math Education and Spanish.  Two months later, I moved to Colombia.  No, not Colombia, South Carolina.  No, not Columbia University in New York.  (And yes, that Columbia has a “u” in it!) Colombia, as in the country…you know, the one in South America?  Yes, the one known for drug cartels in the 90′s…

After the natural barrage of questions from friends and family, I left Minneapolis, Minnesota on July 28th, 2009 with a final destination of Cali, Colombia in order to teach 8th grade math at an international school. In some ways I knew exactly what I was getting into, because I had previously traveled internationally, I talked with current teachers at my future school, and I researched a lot about Colombia before leaving.  In other ways, I had no idea what this two-year job contract in a foreign (at the time) country was all about.

Here I am seven months into teaching, seven months into living abroad and seven months into discovering the wonders of Colombia, and I realize that at the very essence of this job/this move I had a dream to do something unique, something different, something challenging, and something just for me.  I just could not envision myself living, working, studying in the same place for the rest of my life; I needed adventure; I needed passion; I needed Colombia.

One of many favorite places in Colombia so far > Ciudad Perdida, near Santa Marta, Colombia. (January 2010)

In the days, weeks and months to come I hope to provide interesting, informative and useful content to Medellin Living through discussion about working/teaching/living abroad, the city of Cali, Colombian culture, and other travel opportunities within Colombia.  Within seven months I have already built a large base of content to share, and new topics arise every day.

Of course, what is most important to me are your suggestions as readers, so please leave a comment or find me on Twitter  (@k_rads) with any questions or suggestions for future posts.

Until next time, thanks for hosting me here at Medellin Living and a big thanks to Dave for allowing me to give this a shot!

Cheers!

Kristin

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So, basically, the two things this country lives on have been taken away for the weekend.  I’m not too concerned about it because a weekend relaxing is really nice.

I wonder if they are opening it it all up tonight after the votes are in?  If they do I’m sure there will be a party tonight!  I think during the 48 hours of prohibition I should have tried to live out my dream of being a flapper in a speakeasy.

If you’re looking to travel to Colombia for the party in the future, just make sure it’s not an election weekend.

Next weekend is officially my last weekend here.  I’m starting to get really sad about leaving and really excited about my future home.  I hope more people decide to not just visit, but live in, Medellin for awhile.  It’s been one of the best times of my life!

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I will never find a place like Medellin.  Its unbelievable beauty and infrastructure just makes it a place that is so easy to call home.  I have thoroughly enjoyed settling down here, and if only I had easier access to my family here, I never would have been pulled away.

With my move in three weeks, there will once again be an opportunity for new contributors to this site.  Some of Dave’s requirements can be found below, but remember that not all of them are mandatory (or may have changed completely).  So, if you are interested, please contact Dave and he can let you know how you can contribute to the site.  He may also have a few things to add about this in the next day or so.

http://medellinliving.com/travel-blog/contributors-wanted/

I’m also looking forward to reflecting on all things Medellin in the weeks I have left.  You can expect posts that may be a little more thoughtful than previous posts.  Enjoy!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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2010 Weblog Awards

Medellin Living is one of the 5 finalists for Best Latin American Weblog in the 10th Annual Weblog Awards (aka the 2010 bloggies)!  When I arrived in Medellin this time last year, I was immediately struck by the natural beauty, rich culture, and friendly paisas.  Starting this blog was my way of getting the word out that the city had a lot to offer.

My other travel blog, Go Backpacking, is one of the 5 finalists for Best Travel Weblog as well.

Please head over to 2010.bloggies.com to vote for both this week.  You do not need to vote for any other blogs to submit your ballot.  The deadline for voting is Sunday, January 31st at 10 PM, EST.

Medellin Living became a team effort after I left Colombia last July, and I owe a big thank you to Holly for keeping the content fresh and interesting.

I mean how many expats in Medellin blog about BASE jumping off buildings?!

Vote here:  2010.bloggies.com

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My Red Hair and Nails on My Balcony in Envigado

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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There is a lot of things in store for me in the New Year, and I’m excited to share them all with you.  Check back on Saturdays, as I will continue the pictures of the week during the break.

Thanks again!

-Holly

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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I found a company on one of the job sites I had listed here.  The interview with the company went well, but they didn’t have a position for me right away.  I waited about three weeks before they finally had something for me.  I am now working with an outsourcing company that does appointment setting and customer service for a handful of companies in the United States and Canada.  I really lucked out by getting in with a fairly new company that is growing super fast.  I’ve already gotten a promotion and a raise, with another raise coming before the end of the year.  Pretty lucky for me.  I will be working on getting a visa next month, and I’ll let you guys know how that goes.  I’m glad that I should be done with the DAS office for good!

I’ve also had to move yet again.  I’m still in Envigado.  I’ve lived in three different apartments in two different neighborhoods here, and I’m still completely loving it.  I am pretty convinced this is the best place to live in Medellin.  I am in the part of Envigado called La Magnolia.  It’s super safe.  I’ve walked from my friend’s house completely drunk at 2am and had no reason to be worried about anyone bothering me.  It’s a lively place, that is still quite enough at night to sleep soundly.  It’s a quick bus ride over to El Poblado or to the Metro, and you can get everything within walking distance.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDnxUpoIbDg

I first saw Artefacto at Altavoz.  I was impressed by the group, overall.  They are a Medellin band lead by Felipe Carmona, 30 (yes, he’s 30…it has been a topic of discussion and jokes ever since I found out.)  Felipe has been very kind to me with offering insights into the Colombian music scene, and I wanted to share this video for him.

I love this video because you can see the Metro running in the background.  I have been using this song to help me learn Spanish.  Here are the lyrics:

DESESPERO

Fue una noche fría y cruel

Cuando me hiciste perder

En tu risa que sabe a miel

Me deleito y luego se fue

Dime porque haces llover

Siempre que te quiero ver

Dame de ti dame de ti

En tus ojos me perdí

A donde vas

Cuando yo pienso en ti

Donde estas cuando muero por ti.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Yumm, a Bottle of Pony Malta.

In my life, very,very few things can hold a candle to beer.  The beer in Medellin is not exceptional; not even the local micro-brew.  The cheap beers however are extremely better than the cheap beers in the United States, like Budweiser or Coors.

Lately, I’ve found something that could be replacing my beer fetish while I’m in Medellin.  It’s called Pony Malta. I think it tastes like candied yams.  The first time I gave it a try I wasn’t sure what to think, but now I’m hooked.  It is a malt, so it has some similarities to beer.  It goes well with the occasional cigarette, and if bought in the 1.5 liter bottle it definitely fits my budget better than the beer I would be having every night.

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I have been to three of them since I have been in Medellin, and I find it’s a great way to keep up my English awareness while I’m here.  Also, it’s a great way to meet locals that speak enough English to communicate with me.  It’s been pretty enjoyable to attend.

Last time I attended, I ran into the lead singer of Atrefacto (A band I had just seen play the day before at Altavoz).  He was kind enough to speak to me after the class, and he invited me to see him play at the bar he works at.  Yay, random networking.

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Requirements to renew tourist visa:

• Original passport
• 3 photos (3×4 cm)
• The completed form they give you at the DAS office (requires the name, address, and phone number of one Colombian national), plus 1 copy
• Deposit 68,700 COP in Acct. 6434911400 codigo 103.
• Original bank deposit and 2 copies
• 2 copies of the information page in passport
• 2 copies of the passport page with Colombian entry stamp
• 2 copies of return flight ticket

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My name is Cathy and I am a Colombian-American 29 year old, two-time expat, born in Colombia and raised in Miami, currently living in Medellin. I speak Spanish, French and obviously English. It’s been 4 years since I moved back here (which wasn’t planned, I came on vacation and decided to stay) and I am so glad to have re-discovered my roots in a sense. Living in two countries and getting a good sense of the cultures really opens up your mind and perspective on things, which is what I hope to be able to share with you.

I am a Fine Arts major from Florida International University. I currently do a lot of things, such as teaching English, running and designing a dog clothing line called CAN BE HAPPY, playing the bass in a Led Zeppelin / Black Sabbath cover band and freelancing in photography whenever I get the chance.

I probably won’t be the one talking to you about Mango’s or about local soccer matches. I will most likely, among other odd bits, will be letting you know lots about the certain aspects of the transformation Medellin is undergoing, the music scene, wine, Colombian films, nearby towns, design, art, photography, food, tips on traveling and living here, the drastic contrasts Medellin offers, and the occasional interview with natives and foreigners that are doing positive and I-had-no-idea-this-could-happen-here types of things.

I live in El Poblado and here’s quick view of my home office, which is where I am writing you from.

(photo removed)

Here I am resting after a bike ride in Guatapé, Antioquia. If you haven’t been up there yet, I highly recommend it. It’s stunning.

(photo removed)

And here’s another pic of the view of the Medellin River and city at night as seen from the 18th floor in an apartment building in the Avenida Las Vegas.

(photo removed)

Hasta la próxima!

C.

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Doctors Office

As long as you don’t go to the upper-crust Clinica Las Vegas, chances are any doctor you visit is not going to speak English. If you have kept up with a steady diet of buñuelos, empanadas, super perros, palos de queso, and the mysterious street food that features cow entrails, there is a pretty good chance you’ll have to visit a gastroenterologist for problems with your digestive functioning. Sure you can just say, “Mi estomogo es malo,” but to get the best treatment you want to give very fine details about your bowel movements, including frequency, shape, color, and scent. This means you got to study up!

DAS Office

If you’re staying in Colombia for more than two months you’ll have to visit the DAS. Unfortunately more English is spoken by tribesman in the Brazilian Amazon than your friendly DAS office peon, so get ready to practice your Spanish under interrogation-like settings.

(Interestingly enough, one night I went to a bar in Parque Lleras and I turned around to see three workers from the DAS office talking in fluent English. It was extremely smooth with no perceptible accent or errors, but when I went to say hello a snarl appeared on their faces and they reverted back to a Spanish dialect I could not understand.)

Casas

There’s casas and there’s casas. I’m talking about the places where older gentleman callers visit for 30 or 60 minute intervals. Many gringos I’ve spoken to, especially American gringos, have told me that frequenting these casas is great for their Spanish, and is much more economical and fun than paying for a 38-hour block of lessons from EAFIT. This is a great option if you don’t mind that your language study to come with a slight risk of the clap.

Chicle Salesman

You paid how much for that package of cinnamon chicle? Dude, I got it from the same guy last week for 200 pesos cheaper. You got ripped all because you didn’t master the art of negotiation in Spanish. Since most chicle salesmen don’t speak English (for some reason), it’s essential you use the local language to get a killer deal. Sure 200 pesos doesn’t sound like a lot, but if you buy two packs a week like I do that really adds up over the course of a month. (I calculated a savings of a whole American dollar, something my frugal comrades staying in Centro can appreciate. You can buy a palo dequeso with that!)

Roosh Vörek is an American gringo living in Medellin, where he finished his travel memoir called A Dead Bat In Paraguay. Check out his website at http://www.rooshv.com.

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Eli Thompson a jumper from the Red Bull Air Force died in late August.  I had only met him a few times, but he was a part of my base family.  Considering that Shane McConkey (another Red Bull team member and the man who took me on my first base jump) just died earlier this year I was reminded that as a base jumper, I’m knocking on death’s door with every jump.  They were both married and had children, and their deaths remind me that even family bonds have their limits.

Then, a double fatal skydiving accident took the lives of Barb Cuddy and my good friend Robby Bigley.  I jumped at the same dropzone with both of them during the majority of my time skydiving.  In my five years of parachuting, I had never known a jumper that has died in a skydiving accident.  Robby and Barb both had thousands of jumps and were highly trained in their disciplines.  Robby was recently married just weeks before his death.

A few days later, Leroy Buckley, another base jumper, was found dead at the base of a cliff in Utah.  He had been missing for over a week, and I was so upset that I was not able to help look for him.  His last email to me was just days before he went missing.  He didn’t know I was in Colombia, and wanted to save me from boredom with a few jumps with him.

The good news (yet, still news that’s pulling me back home) is that my brother and sister-in-law are going to have a son later this week.  He was not supposed to be born until later in October, but he’s been trying to come to this world early.  We were all quite scared.  Luckily, he decided until the scary preterm part was over, and his arrival will be welcomed whenever he’s ready.

If I was in the States right now I would be bouncing around to funerals, wakes, memorials, and hospitals.  I would be just as cried out as I am now, but I would have been able to cry with my friends and jumping family.  It is so hard to be here sometimes, yet I am also glad I don’t have to face all of it quite so head on.

Soon, my nephew will be born.  I will have more energy to explore this amazing city, and posts will be a bit more normal.  Now…where’s a good building to jump?

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Botero Plaza

My friend Casey just posted his first impressions of Medellin on his Panama blog.  As I read it, I realized he’s not just a savvy business guy, he’s an awesome writer.  Be sure to check it out because his observations parallel my own, and many of the others I heard from backpackers stepping into Colombia for the first time.

Can Colombia Compete with Panama Tourism?

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Bogota restaurant

I recently became aware of a great opportunity to win an all expenses paid trip to Colombia!

6 bloggers have been chosen to represent 6 different countries – the USA, Spain, Peru, Ecuador, Venezuela and Brazil.

They will be heading to Colombia later this month on an all expenses paid trip to tour 4 of the country’s best regions:  Bogota, the Coffee Triangle, Santa Marta, and Cartagena.  The whole experience will be filmed by National Geographic for a TV show to premiere in December.

In addition to the bloggers who will be working on the trip, one individual from each of the same 6 countries will also be chosen to join the adventure!

Right now, I’ve only seen the details posted by the Spanish bloggers.  Once I see the instructions in English, I will share a link, but because the deadline is so soon (September 21), I wanted to get the word out immediately!  Here are the contest instructions in Spanish, as posted on Colombia’s official tourism portal:

In short, you’ll need to record a video stating who you are and what motivates you to want to travel to Colombia.  Upload it to YouTube, and fill out the registration form by September 21.  The winners will be announced on September 24 and contacted electronically.

Good luck (buenas suerte)!

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Statue at Plaza de Botero

Some times, when I have a few minutes to spare, I just get off the metro at a random stop and explore what’s in the area.  One random Monday, I got off at the Parque Berrío station, and just had a look around.

The streets were completely filled with people.  It was definitely the craziest part of town I have seen yet.  There are stores and malls lining the streets, as well as clothing vendors in the road.  There are few places in the world with that many shoe stores in one place.

This is also the area to find Plaza de Botero.  The statues are definitely worth going to see, if only to giggle at the little kids that don’t quite know what to make of it.  In fact, it’s pretty entertaining to watch everyone look at these statues.

I didn’t have a chance to go into the Museum that is located here, but I will sometime in the future.

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The cover story in this installment is Medellin’s skateboarding scene, which I think is a totally rad topic to feature (as a former skater myself)!

Additional topics include:

• How to Sound Like a Colombian
• Rio Claro (national park)
• Interview with The Ataris
• Profile of a Street Artist
• ….and as always, a breakdown of Medellin’s various neighborhoods and upcoming events!

If you’re in Medellin, or on your way, be sure to check out The Arepa.

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Holly is now posting regularly to the blog.  The author’s name for a post appears under the title of the post on the website, and in RSS readers, however it does not appear anywhere if you are receiving updates via e-mail.  I believe this is an issue with the Feedburner service which generates the e-mails, and I don’t expect an enhancement to address it any time soon.

For now, I am going to leave everything the same, however I am hopeful another one or two authors will begin to write as well, in which case we’ll have to start or end each post with the author’s name to avoid confusion.

Also, I changed the comment system back to the basic version.

As always, please let me know if you have any feedback regarding your experience with Medellin Living!

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She said “no” – so are you never asking her to dance again?

If she says “no” to you and “yes” to another gentleman a minute later, is this really inappropriate or “lame?” — Grace Badillo

Now that I’m back in the Washington, DC area, I’ve been scouring the internet to get a grasp of the local salsa scene.  The good news is there are enough salsa nights at bars, and dedicated clubs, for me to go out any night of the week.

I recently came across a great column on salsa etiquette I wish I’d read months ago while still in Colombia. It is posted on a blog tied to a new monthly publication, The Scene, that just launched to cover the DC/MD/VA salsa scene.  You can read the whole issue online.  Pretty cool!

The reason I wish I’d read this article from the start is that it would’ve helped eliminate my concerns about women turning me down for a dance.  I lost out on potentially meeting a lot of people and improving faster, because I was too hung up on the “no’s.”  As I got better, I felt more confident asking the women to dance, so it was naturally becoming less of an issue.  Now that I’m back in the US with no language barrier, it is even easier.

I’ll be sharing more about my DC salsa adventures in future posts.

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I’m really the most excited to throw myself into a new culture and new life.  I know that I’ll enjoy the nightlife and dancing, and I’m already craving arepas con queso.  I’m also extremely excited that I’m arriving just days before the Flower Festival, Feria de las Flores.  It will be unbeatable to see such a beautiful and fun part of the culture practically right when I walk off the plane.  Plus, a week of live music…that’s practically heaven in my book.

I’m most scared about being in such a big city, considering I’ve only spent about a month total in other big cities.  My small hometown has a population of about 45,000 and you can drive from one side of town to the other in less than 10 minutes.  Getting the hang of public transportation will actually be a big learning experience for me.

One thing I really want to look into right away is doing some volunteer work.  I have a handful of random and otherwise worthless skills that I’d like to put to good use, and I’ve always found that other volunteers have the best networks of good friends.

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The Arepa - July 2009

When I met Robin back at The Arepa’s launch party at Melodie Lounge, I pitched a humor piece to him about the experience of riding Medellin’s city buses as a foreigner.  Fast forward a few weeks and it’s in the new July issue of The Arepa.

The magazine can be picked up at the city’s hostels, major universities and popular bars and cafes, OR simply download the PDF here.

If you read nothing else besides my article (page 28), be sure to read Robin’s intro at the start of the magazine (page 2).  If I weren’t already living here, his writing is exactly the kind which would inspire me to visit.

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The comment system was new to me when I installed it a few months ago, and I didn’t configure it properly.  If you left a comment, it was awaiting moderation by me, which is something I hadn’t thought to be doing!  I updated the settings to ensure all comments appear immediately!

I also went back through the ones left here and tried to respond to any questions.  I apologize for the delay.  I may switch to a more simple system in the future.  We shall see.

Either way, please keep the comments coming!

Your man in Medellin (err….Envigado),

Dave

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Medellin Living: Tell us a little about yourself.

Holly base jumping from a bridge

Holly: I graduated in May 2008 with a BS in Music Management.

I am a dancer, which means I’m always finding the most exciting nightlife.  My dance training is 20 years of classical ballet, with cross training in Tap and Jazz.  I actually don’t have much training in any ballroom type dances, which is one of the reasons I wanted to go to a South American country.

I’m a base jumper, and always looking for a good way to play with parachutes or get some adrenaline going.  I’m currently a music manager for some local bands, and I’m always looking for the best local music.

Medellin Living: Why do you want to live in Medellin?

Holly: The whole story of why I chose Colombia is kind of random.  It started with me dreaming about an around the world trip, which included a stop at Angel Falls, Venezuela, and I thought, “Hell, Colombia’s right there.  My friend’s seem to have fun there.  I’ll stop there too.”

Unfortunately, a little issue with my boss and a base jumping accident (broken heel) kept me from affording such a trip.  My mind kept wandering back to Colombia, finally my situation came around, and now I’m here.

I have a few friends that have visited and raved about their experience.  One of them even returns every winter, but he’s on the coast.  I also realized that I need a bit more culture in my life.  In the end, Colombia just sounds like a badass place to go.  Not to mention it is not the most popular place for US citizens to go… Which sounds like a challenge to me, and I obviously like challenges.

Medellin Living: What would you like to write about?

Holly: Things I would like to write about include nightlife and dance, my quest to find local base jumping sites, my quest to stay in Colombia for as long as possible, culture, and personal interactions.  My passions are pretty diverse.

Thanks Holly!

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It feels like just yesterday that I bumped into them at Casa Kiwi’s lobby, but in reality, it has been about 4 months.

Colombia gets some good mentions in the superlatives department, and there are a bunch of clips from the coast, Cali, and Medellin in the video.  Check it out!

“Best Food – Rice plates w/ meat, beans & plantains; Colombia” (My commentary:  Seriously guys!?  I imagined everyone who’d been to Argentina would rank their steaks above traditional Colombian fare, but I guess not.)

“Country That’s Not As Dangerous as People Think – Colombia” (My commentary:  Word to your mother.  Literally…tell your MOM you will survive like the other gringos who came before you, and then get your ass down here for a good time.)

“Best Kept Secret – Medellin, Colombia” (My commentary:  Of course I still desire to see the rest of the continent, but hearing from people who have done the circuit and give props to Medellin warms the cockles of my heart.)

Ironically, Colombia also gets the mention for something not so pleasant.

“Scariest Moment – Getting held up at knifepoint in Colombia, twice.  We’re alive w/all our belongings.  (My commentary:  I didn’t say to tell your mom you wouldn’t get robbed…just that you’d survive.  )

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Not the most uplifting title, however it certainly matches the moody feel to their indie rock music.  After listening to a selection of songs on the band’s MySpace page, I’m happy to share they have a new fan in Medellin. Based on the reviews being posted, their music is being well received across the pond. 

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Colombians react after a close call in the match

I took a cab to Parque Lleras, where I found the bars and restaurants screening the match had decorated with red, yellow and blue balloons and Colombian flags.  I got to Barcelona, a bar where I was meeting up with Sirley and others, first, which was good because I staked out a table in the middle.  Sirley then arrived with a German couchsurfer, followed by her friend Paola and Cesar, David and his friend, and several others.  All the seats and tables were taken by the kickoff, and I was quite content to be amidst the locals for such a big match.

Arepa con Queso

Colombian was off to an aggressive start, and they had all the opportunities in the all-important first ten minutes of the match, but they couldn’t convert.  Argentina didn’t play well in the first half, and I think Colombia must’ve been relieved to enter the locker room at an 0-0 tie.  Unfortunately, Argentina emerged in the second half with a lot more energy, and quickly scored a goal which turned out to be the only one of the match.

I’m not sure why Sirley recommended Barcelona of all the bars, but it might’ve been the 3 for 1 cocktails.  I enjoyed a few delicious caipirinhias.  After the match, we stuck around awhile longer, and eventually as the others disbanded, Sirley, Paola, Cesar and I went for a walk to get some arepas con queso.  These tasty fast food items are akin to hot dogs in the USA, and I like them much more because the hot dogs here in Colombia are loaded with too many toppings.  The greasy arepas con queso are only topped with a drizzling of sweetened milk.  Sooooo good.  I will miss them dearly.

We returned to Parque Lleras and sat on some of the steps for awhile.  I was trying to figure out if I was going to meet up with Martin, as it was his birthday the following day.  I thought about it over a beer I bought from a small shop nearby.  At about $0.60 it’s no wonder the police try to keep people from drinking in the park.  Actually, this night was the first time I saw the sign stating alcohol and drugs were not allowed.  Sirley rationalized that it was to keep the money going to the bars and restaurants in the form of high drink prices.  Yet looking around, there were people with beer and boxes of Aguardiente everywhere!

Saturday night in Parque Lleras

In the end, I didn’t connect with Martin.  Sirley went home and I offered to introduce Paola, her friend Vanessa, and Cesar to one of my favorite spots, Le Pub de Octavia.

We walked over and grabbed seats at the bar as it wasn’t too crowded yet.  Another caipirinhia, though this time it was a special one with a fruit I hadn’t heard of before squished in the bottom.  It was certainly different though I think I’ll stick with the original version going forward.  I managed to dance a little with Paola, but not enough to get into a rhythmn with all the turns I now know.

______________________

Barcelona (restaurant and bar) – Carrera 38 #8-95, Parque Lleras, Medellin.  Phone:  311-7691.

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It developed an immediate audience, receiving 2,000 unique visits per month.  The Alexa ranking (a measure of traffic and site popularity) has reached 623,000 in the past month.  And Google recently bumped the Page Rank up a notch from 2 to 3 – a positive signal for future text link sales.  In fact, I am 100% certain that the site is now in a position to benefit from local advertising (by bars, nightclubs, hostels, etc.) as well as online opportunities.

When I decided to start the blog, I was confident there would be demand for city info in this format, however these results have come even faster than I expected!  At the same time, I am heading back to the USA in July, which means to keep the site fresh and interesting, I am seeking a few contributors. After reading the info below, please contact me if you’d be interested in helping to grow Medellin Living.

Who

Foreigners and Colombians living in Medellin, regardless of whether you’re here for a few weeks, months, or years.  All content will continue to be in English, so strong writing skills in this language are required.

When

Immediately!  A blog can only benefit from more content per day, week, and month.  Plus, we will be able to meet in person while I’m still here.

Why

Tourism to Medellin and Colombia is on the upswing, and NOW is the time to establish and develop a trusted web presence.

• Reach a worldwide audience.
• Highlight the positive aspects of life in Medellin and Colombia.
• For those familiar with blogging, this is an opportunity to increase your name recognition.
• Any contribution will include a link back to your blog or website of choice.
• For those new to blogging, I will give you a personal crash course in effectively writing for an online audience.
• It’s fun!  Get out and explore the city with notebook and/or camera in hand.
• Share in any earnings from locally generated advertising revenue. In other words, if you help to develop advertising pesos/dollars by contacting bars, clubs, hostels, language schools, etc. you share in the rewards. Obviously it would be beneficial to have a strong command of Spanish. In advance of such sales efforts, I would determine a range of rates you could offer prospective clients, and we would negotiate and agree to a fair deal (between us) in writing.
  

What

Different ideas and perspectives can help to create a unique reader experience.  That said, here are a few of my ideas for how this blog could benefit from new contributors:

• Teaching English – weekly series on how to teach English, especially as it applies to working here in Medellin (privately or for a school).
• Learning Spanish – tips, advice, and/or experiences learning Spanish in Medellin.
• Nightlife – do you get out to a wide variety of venues on a regular basis?  This subject is the current bread-and-butter of Medellin Living.  Help keep it going!
• Couchsurfing Correspondent – the Medellin Couchsurfing group is strong and super social.  Attend and report to the world what’s going on with them.
• Special Events – cover Colombiamoda, or any one of the annual events such as the Flower, Tango, and/or Poetry festivals
• Photograph of the week (consistently high quality)
• Sports or Music
• ((((Your Ideas Here))))

How

We can discuss further if you contact me, however I expect we’d meet for coffee or a quick bite to eat to discuss how you would like to contribute.  A writing sample will be required.  If you write well, and are familiar with WordPress, I can give you “contributor” access so you can work straight from the admin side of the blog.  If you are new to WordPress and blogging, I can provide in-person instruction so you can learn what you’re doing before I leave the country.

My Focus

Once back in the USA, I will be focused on site design, search engine optimization, building traffic, link building, and online marketing.  I also hope to do a better job of sharing relevant current events, though they will likely focus on the bigger, annual festivals rather than week-to-week offerings.

Again, please contact me if you’re interested.

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For now, here’s why I’m happy to see them come around.

Sleep late – it has been a few months since I last set an alarm for the mornings.

Gym – I don’t work out on Sundays so it always feels great to get back into my routine.

Lunch at apartment – usually a protein shake, cereal, and/or a ham-cheese-egg toasted sandwich.

Blogging – I try to schedule all my posts for this blog on Mondays and if I’m really being productive, I get something done on GoBackpacking too.  Plus, Mondays seem to be a popular day for me to get e-mails from potential advertisers on my websites.  This makes checking my messages much more exciting.

Salsa lesson – of the two classes I take per week, this is the smaller one which means I’m getting the attention of a private lesson for the cost of a group one.

Sushi – I’ve fallen into the habit of picking up sushi to go on the way home from my dance lesson.

Movies, TV, or more blogging – in the evening, it’s time to unwind with a little more writing, channel surfing, or relaxation with a recently downloaded movie.

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For example, I recall a time a few months ago when $1 equaled 2,600 COP.  As of yesterday, $1 equals 2,141 COP.

I knew the good times would be short lived, I had just hoped they would last as long as I did here!  On the flip side, I know while the situation is not good for my bank account, it is good for Colombians.

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A surprising fact:  90% of the flowers sold in the USA are from Colombia

Well produced and brief, it’s definitely worth a watch.  I couldn’t find a way to embed it so you’ll just have to click here.

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Jim returned from the coast yesterday and we met up for a few final beers (and some authentic Thai food) before he spent one last night in a South American hostel.  He’s currently in Miami awaiting a flight to Puerto Rico, before concluding his RTW trip by flying back to southern California next week.  What I realized on this third meeting, is something I sensed on the the second (when we first hung out in Medellin a few weeks ago…the first meeting having been in Egypt), that he’d be a lot of fun to travel with.  One thing I continue to both love and despise about travel is how quickly you can become friends (or more) with a person only to have them head off in a different direction too soon. I admire how excited he is to be returning home after his journey, and hope I will also embrace the experience when the time arrives.

Clint took another break from the city by heading to the Caribbean coast for some R&R in a beach hammock.  He returns to Medellin later next week for a few days before moving on to Bogota, and then the good life in British Colombia, Canada.

Martin, my German roommate, just shared that he will be moving to a different apartment for his last 6-7 weeks in Medellin.

James, the person Martin brought by to check out the room, will already be in our apartment by the weekend.  That was especially quick.

Kai, my good friend in New York City, continues to mention his interest in visiting Colombia.  The last time I was in a country when he did this (Costa Rica), he arrived a few days after I left.  This time around, I’m trying to get him down to Medellin for a long weekend while I’m still here.  That’d be cool.

Charlie, my friend who has been living in Chengdu, China as a DJ for the last 5 years has also expressed interest in visiting Colombia later this year, though I wouldn’t be around by then.  Doh.

Me, myself and I are looking at airfares to get home in early July.  Despite daily service from Medellin to Washington, DC via Fort Lauderdale, the Spirit Airlines site is not bringing up any results for this route, which is annoying when you’re ready to book a flight!

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I am excited to share my first published article for Ask Men, a popular online men’s lifestyle magazine.  The topic is Flashpack Gear and it is running under their Guy Gear column, thus making me a “Digital Correspondent.”

How did this happen?  A few months ago when I began the new blog, Medellin Living, the editors approached me about writing a profile on the city for their new annual editorial, Top 29 Best:  Cities To Live In (2009).  While Medellin didn’t make the cut, I used the opportunity to highlight my recent travels and pitch a few ideas, including an article on flashpacker gear.  I already accepted my next assignment with them, so hopefully I’m on the way to becoming a regular contributor.

Yesterday, I heard from Matt, an American I spent Christmas with at a hostel in Brussels last December.  In response to the article, he wanted me to know that the same Petzl headlamp I recommend (and used on my RTW trip) is the one he’s using (at war) in Afghanistan.

In addition to the Petzl headlamp, there are 5 other cool gadgets for your next trip abroad, so be sure to check out Flashpack Gear on Ask Men today!

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I bet you have been wondering why I’ve spent more electronic ink on nightlife and salsa dancing the last few weeks then my trials and tribulations teaching English.

The reason is simple….I decided to stop stressing about trying to teach English and focus instead on writing for my blogs – Medellin Living and GoBackpacking.  In addition, I have also begun to do some freelance work for AskMen.com, a popular men’s lifestyle website.  Obtaining my own laptop has made this possible, or at least afforded me the opportunity to work in a more comfortable and conducive environment (my Medellin apartment).

As much as I enjoy sitting in front of a computer with the world at my fingertips, writing all day and catching up with friends at home is not exactly the most exciting of topics to discuss, therefore I will continue to focus on sharing my adventures at night, and introducing the cool people, both Colombian and foreign, I am meeting.  I hope to even take a few sidetrips to nearby national parks or traditional towns in the coming weeks.

The Future

Since I am no longer putting myself in a position to obtain a work visa, my tourist visa in Colombia will expire by mid-July.  While I could extend my time here by taking Spanish classes and switching to a student visa (I think), I have neither the money nor the will to do so.  I love it here.  Truly.  And I am living every day to the fullest, which is extremely satisfying.

That said, I am also ready to return home to the States for a respite from life abroad.  I want to see what happens after having been gone for 20 months.  I know I’ve changed.  I am sure people at home have changed.  The American economy and job market has definitely changed.  I’m increasingly curious about my homecoming, whatever may happen.

My plan is to continue building this blog, from Medellin and the States.  As a result of the latter, I will be trying to recruit local contributers in Colombia, especially an English teacher (for his/her perspective on working here)!

Please contact me if you would be interested.

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Maira

I’ve now been living with Maira and Martin for about 2 months here in Envigado, and since I have yet to go out with Maira for a night on the town, I haven’t taken any photos of her.  So I am nicking one from Facebook for a long overdue introduction.

Besides being stunningly beautiful, she is super sweet, and I couldn’t have found someone with a better gym ethic.  Lately, I’ve even been going more than her, though I imagine that won’t last long.

A few years ago, she participated in an exchange program and lived with a family in the USA for a year.  During that time, she learned to speak English really well.

In an effort to further improve, she is planning to spend some time in England when the current college semester ends (in June).

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I have two albums – both viewable via automated slideshow.  The first is filled with photos from around the city, and includes a wide range of subjects from scenic views to food to club promotion posters.  The second is dedicated specifically to the nightlife – bars, clubs, and beautiful women!

Please contact me if you have some great photos, representative of Medellin, to share with the world.

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Much of what he writes rings true with my experience here, and what I´ve heard from talking to Colombians and other foreigners who have been here a few years.  Give me a few more months and I’ll post a similar list with that same sense of authority!

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View from the hallway of my Envigado apartment

I enjoyed the opportunity to talk with a non-backpacker from Maryland, learning about how he found himself living in Medellin and meeting his wife.  He currently runs his own consulting company and plays on an Envigado softball team.  After talking for awhile, and allowing the rain to let up, he walked me past a disco and a row of bars which he said were popular nightlife spots.  Envigado is not high on the list of nightlife destinations for the Colombians and foreigners I know, so I haven’t even gone out one night there, though to be fair, I usually only go out for drinks one night a week anyways.  Still, I feel I am neglecting my barrio, which along with Poblado, is one of the more polished parts of the city.

Hopefully I can recruit a partner in crime to join me.  After all, there’s even a bar named after Moe from The Simpsons!  And Jacob offered to invite me out sometime too, which would be cool.  I still feel very much like a sponge, and the more new people I can continue to meet and get to know during my time here, the better!

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If you could care less about what I ate for lunch, then you can simply glance at the Tweets as they show up on this blog’s sidebar.

So far, every update seems to be about how I am blogging and writing.  I need to be a little more creative since I can’t use my cell phone to make the updates when I am away from the computer.

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The Inter-American Development Bank (IDB) is the leading source of multilateral financing and expertise for sustainable economic, social, and institutional development in Latin America and the Caribbean.   — Conference website

Sirley first brought the event to my attention after I returned from Cartagena a month ago.  She saw it as a good opportunity for me to find short-term work with one of the big hotels or the restaurants in the popular Parque Lleras area.

Last week, I finally bit the bullet and dressed up in my finest clothes (shirt, tie, khakis and shoes) and headed toward the Dann Carlton Hotel with resumes and cover letters in hand.  I introduced myself at reception and was referred to a manager in his office.  He spoke great English and I gave m best 30-second elevator speech.  He said his hotel was hosting mostly participants from Latin American countries, so communicating wouldn’t be too difficult for the staff, though they would also have the Japanese contingent.  He referred me to the Intercontinental Medellin which was apparently ground zero for the big event.

Doing my best to avoid the rain, I caught a cab to the Intercontinental, which was also on my list of hotels to hit.  Based on Google results, it seemed to be the premier luxury hotel in Medellin.  Upon arrival, I approached a woman who appeared to be a concierge.  She spoke great English too, and welcomed me to sit down.   I offered my services to her hotel, and she gave me the business card of the Front Office Manager in return.  The interactions were less awkward than I expected, so I rewarded myself with a little cake and coffee from the hotel cafe.

I know what you might be thinking – that´s it?!  Yes, I could´ve gone to more hotels thereafter, however it seemed like if one was to hire me, it´d be the biggest and fanciest of them all.

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• map of Medellin
• yellow pad of paper – used for my Spanish/English classes with Rodrigo, and other random purposes
• personal journal and a pen
• a blue folder with copies of my teaching advertisement in black and white and color, resume, and teaching rates
• small nylon dry bag (because it rains often here)
• digital camera
• SD card reader
• mp3 player and USB cable (for recharging it)
• English – Spanish dictionary (pocket size)
• self-made flash cards for improving my Spanish vocabulary
• stapler and blue tape (for posting ads)
• bottle of water and gum
• spare change (great for buses)
• apartment keys, copy of passport, and other random bits of paper with various addresses (handy for giving taxi drivers)

In my pocket, I carry a cell phone I bought in Medellin, and a small amount of pesos.

I think that about covers it, though I am long overdue for an umbrella!

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Rainbow Over Central Medellin

Henry from Poor But Happy (forum) invited me and Ken out to see The Watchmen last week.  I’d been meaning to both introduce myself to Ken, and see a movie in Colombia, so off I went to the theaters near the Suramericana metro stop.  Rains gave way to half a rainbow over central Medellin as I tried to find the box office in the shopping complex.

While I was waiting for them, I reviewed some phrases in my conversational Spanish book.

I saw Ken’s new photo blog, Colombian View, after he posted the link on Poor But Happy, however I was already aware of him from the 12-part series he wrote in 2008 about the current state of affairs in Colombia for Smithsonian Magazine.  Turns out, while he is only in Medellin for a month or two right now, his permanent residence is in Arlington, Virginia, near my old apartment.  He also mentioned his roommate in Medellin is an English teacher from Canada who has been teaching for a year now.  Ken offered to help us connect, which I really appreciated.

As for the movie, it cost $2.40 for a 6:15 pm showing.  The Watchmen was almost 3 hours long, strange, and too violent for my tastes these days.

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Unfortunately, once you have a problem, it can be a big one.  My USB was password protected because I used Mozilla Firefox and had the browser remember all my non-bank account username and passwords.  Martin and I tried to locate and restore the data using free, online software, however it couldn’t be done.   I had to bite the bullet and reformat, starting over with all my internet bookmarks and logins.  The memory available is now half what it use to be though, at 1gb instead of 2gb.

Thankfully, the documents I saved on the USB which are of most importance to me now, like teaching advertisements, TEFL resume, and recent writing assignment I submitted to a website, were all previously forwarded as e-mails from my Gmail account.

The lesson in all this?  Back-up your USB sticks regularly!

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Church in Envigado Park

Saturday was spent recovering from my night out at Blue.  It is also cleaning day in the apartment.  Maira, Martin and I handle our own rooms, and then rotate cleaning the kitchen, guys’ bathroom, and windows, plus dusting, and sweeping/mopping the floors.  If I weren’t a clean person by nature, I’d have to start looking for a new place to live!  But I don’t mind the effort as we enjoy the results throughout the week.  After living in so many dirty hostels, it feels good to be in a nice apartment. 

In the afternoon, Maira and I went to rent some videos.  I opened up an account at the local store since she was afraid of a long-outstanding bill tied to a lost movie.  We picked up The Cycle (a mediocre thriller) and The Ex (cute comedy).  Back at the apartment, Martin and his girlfriend Diana joined us for them too.  And to finish off the night, we watched a third movie, Elephant, which was based on the Colombine shooting. 

I am starting to appreciate Envigado as a friendly, quaint neighborhood.  The apartment buildings and upscale shops reflect the wealth in the town, yet walking down the streets, it feels more authentic than El Poblado and the Parque Lleras area.

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Restaurant in Bogota

The Colombians I meet are often curious to know why I traveled to their country.  They are well aware of the world’s perspective, which is why I am usually smiling coyly when I give some variation of the following response.

In 2005, I met a Swiss backpacker my last night on vacation in Costa Rica.  He had traveled through Colombia and spoke of the beautiful women and safe conditions.  I knew then that I would be going, it was just a matter of when.  The next year, I met a few other travelers in Central America who also spoke of Colombia as a beautiful country.

In 2009, as my trip around the world was wrapping up, I had a decision to make.  I had enough money to visit one country in South America, and I gave myself the choice of either Brazil or Colombia.  Brazil is a known entity, filled with tourists from around the world partying it up.  I was also hearing it was as expensive as the United States.  Meanwhile, Colombia was the unknown.  A country flying under the radar for most travelers, yet already gaining credit on the Latin American backpacker trail.

I chose to visit Colombia because I wanted to visit a beautiful country before the rest of the world’s tourists knew what it was missing.  And it has surpassed my every expectation, especially in Medellin.  The climate, geography, and women are gorgeous.  The culture is vibrant, the nightlife exciting, and the dancing a challenge waiting to be conquered.

Now if I can just manage to earn a living here!

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To get a sense of the fares, I looked up a one-way, non-refundable flight from Fort Lauderdale to Medellin.  A regular seat, at the regular price (including taxes), costs $175.  If you join the $9 Fare Club, then for $39 per year, you receive $9 off each flight you book, which could offer long term savings for frequent fliers.  The flight time is 2 hours and 20 minutes.  I was unable to find an available March flight from Medellin to Fort Lauderdale.

A round trip flight from Reagan National Airport in Washington, DC to Medellin in April runs $438 and includes one stop over in Miami each way.

A round trip flight from LaGuardia Airport in New York City to Medellin in April runs $540 and includes one stop over in Miami each way.

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Couchsurfing Party in Sabaneta

Couchsurfing, for those who have yet to discover it, is an online social network geared toward travelers.  The network allows you to post a profile and either off to host a traveler in your home, contact someone while traveling abroad to stay in their home, or otherwise meet for coffee or a drink.  The obvious benefit to having a place to stay abroad is the savings in money, however for those who get involved, they soon find the cultural benefits far outweigh the monetary value.

Drinks with Sirley (my right) and her friends

I originally signed up for the service in late 2006, in the hopes of hosting travelers before I left on my trip around the world.  I wanted to see what it would be like to have a stranger from another country show up at my door.  What it would feel like to show him or her around my home town, or at least point the person in the right direction to make their life a little easier.  I was surprised to find how much hosting someone felt similar to traveling abroad myself.  On my trip, I have been a guest with about 10 different people, including a French doctor on Tahiti, a professor in Singapore, a doctor in Cape Town, and Canadian interns in Geneva.  All of the experiences have been wonderful, and the hospitality shown by each host has been eye-opening for me.

Meeting two other American couchsurfers in Medellin

When I began to search for  a couch in Bogota from Spain,  I was surprised to find a high membership in the big cities of Colombia!  I spent my first 6 nights with Laura, a university student, and her roommate.  She took me around the city, and made me feel right at home.  It was my first indication of the friendliness of Colombians.

I arrived in Medellin without a couch to surf, but I did arrange to meet up with a variety of people from the site for drinks and walking tours.  First, Jesusa spent a few hours walking me past some of the government buildings downtown.  The next night, I met up with Sirley and her friends for dinner and drinks in a Parque LLeras restaurant.  I reunited with Jesusa for a free dance performance at the Teatro Lido on a Friday night, and spent the following night at a Couchsurfing going away party for one of their own.  Another weekend, it was salsa and meringue lessons with Luisa at Kukaramakara Club.  I think you get the point.

Luisa (blue) invited me out salsa dancing for her friend's birthday

Couchsurfing, and its Medellin Group, is a way to access the local culture of a place without knowing the language, as the majority of members in any given country tend to speak at least a little English.  And if you intend to live in Medellin, or any place with a similarly strong Couchsurfing community, your ability to build a social circle inclusive of the locals is made far easier.  Partying, networking, socializing, cultural exchanges.  It is all within reach, so sign up today!

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Twenty minutes later, I returned to the main floor and was introduced to a new trainer who guided me through about 10 different exercise machines, making sure to correct my form before leaving to check on his other members. I wanted to focus on my chest, abs, and arms. It was rough. Traveling for 15 months, eating whatever I want, and drinking alcohol more regularly than at home, has lead me to gain 20 pounds (10 kilograms) and I am anxious to work some of it off.

It is worth repeating, the number of beautiful women at the gym was jaw-dropping. Most were dressed in stylish and tight outfits, which seems like a far cry from the old college t-shirt look so common in the USA. And the trainers were friendly. I continue to find my Spanish improving when I put myself in such activity-based environments.

I may focus on capoeira tomorrow, though there is a rumba class at the gym with my name on it this week!

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Colombia rebels blamed for more Indian killings highlights the persecution of indigenous people in Colombia for not supporting the FARC. I have a lot to learn in regards to the history of the country and motives behind this guerrilla group, however its perceived threat is still clearly keeping tourists at bay.

The good news is the government appears to be making notable progress in pushing FARC deeper into the jungles, thereby protecting the vital roads connecting the country.

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Colombian landscape on approach to Jose Maria Cordova International Airport

I am excited at the possibilities for this site, yet before I begin to highlight the aspects of Medellin and Colombia which have lead me to start extolling its virtues, I want to share my story up until now.

In November 2007, I resigned from work, left my apartment, belongings, friends and family behind in the Washington, DC area, and flew to Tahiti. It was the first stop on a 14-month dream trip around the world. I visited 20 countries, and have now spent time in 30 over the course of my life (on every continent except Antarctica).

My savings account waning, I decided to pick one country in South America to visit before going home, and resuming a job and life in New York City. Over the previous years, the few people I´d spoken to who had traveled through Colombia had great things to say. Beautiful land and people, safe, and inexpensive. Alternatively, I considered the eternal hotspot of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil where costs are high and the tourism industry well developed.

I chose the pass less traveled. The unknown road. I chose Colombia. After one week couchsurfing in Bogota, I flew to Medellin, and from the moment the plane descended through the clouds, I was stunned by the beauty of the green landscape and mountains before me. The scenery continued to leave my mouth gaping as I took the shuttle bus from the international airport down the smooth but twisting roads to the city center, which was bustling on a beautiful, warm Sunday afternoon. I was so ready to jump into the scene, I almost didn´t want to get in a cab to drop my backpack off at a hostel in the upscale El Poblado district.

A little over two weeks later, I decided maybe Medellin is the place I´ve always wanted to live but didn´t know it. Due to its unique geography, the city has a reputation for Spring-like weather year round. The Colombians I´ve met have been friendly, even if they haven´t been able to speak English. I feel safe getting around on foot during the day, on the metro, and taking cabs at night. Cultural activities are often free, and when there is a cost, it is a steal by western standards. A great restaurant meal can be had for the cost of a Happy Meal in the States. A variety of music blasts from stores and bars throughout the city – salsa, merengue, reggaeton, vallenato, tropical pop, and electronic to name a few. The locals are amazing dancers, and the nightlife is great. And I haven´t even brought myself to visit the surrounding villages just an hour or two away.

I hope you will join me in discovering The City of the Eternal Spring.

Colombia, the only risk is wanting to stay!

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View of Medellin´s aquarium and Parque Explora from Universidad metro station

Welcome to Medellin Living, a blog dedicated to my experiences living and (trying) to work in Colombia´s City of the Eternal Spring!

Stay tuned, as I hope to get this site up and rolling fast. In the meantime, feel free to check out the travel blog from my 15-month trip around the world at GoBackpacking.com/Blog.

Dave

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