The annual Colombiamoda show in Medellin ran from July 28th-30th, 2010.  It’s the biggest fashion show of the year for Colombia, with designers locally and from around the world coming together to display their new clothing lines for the season.  I (Troy) covered the event myself and wanted to get some photos of the models.  Entrance was a little high at $80,000 COP ($42.00 USD) but the pass provided you with entry for all 3 days of the event.

Living in Medellin feels like your in a fashion show all the time anyways, as everyone dresses for success here, so not sure it was really worth the extra money.

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Posted by T-roy from FOGG Odyssey.com who is currently living in Medellin.  He does photography work part-time and has his own travel website which hosts more of his photos.  If you have a photography question or want to meet up to shoot pictures while in Medellin, you can contact him through his website.  You can also follow him on Facebook and Twitter.

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My mission was clear.  Investigate, with camera in hand, and report back to the readers of Medellin Living.

Lingerie model at Colombiamoda 2010

I’d like to think I’m fashionable, however aside from watching a few seasons of Project Runway (hey, Heidi Klum is the host), I don’t know much about the industry or its designers, let alone the Latin American ones.  So, I attended under no false pretenses.

Troy from FOGGOdyssey and I would go photograph the pretty girls, and share those images online. We posted the first batch of sexy Colombian models over at Go Backpacking a few days after the event.  A second photo essay by Troy will be posted here tomorrow.

In the meantime, I wanted to answer the burning question on any visiting guy’s mind…

is it worth the 80,000 peso ($44) price of admission?

In good company

The answer is yes…if you care about fashion, want to write about the event itself, have the desire to play lingerie photographer for a day, or simply want a few photos to make your Facebook friends jealous. You might even try getting a phone number or two (good luck!).  In our experience, the models were all friendly and willing to take some direction with regard to the photographs, though of course that personality trait comes with the job.

Foreigners buy the pass at a reduced rate compared to what a Colombian (non-student) would have to pay, and it’s good for all three days of the event.  Unfortunately, despite checking out the show for a second day, we saw the same models, and nothing seemed different.  Also, it won’t get you into the runway shows.  If that’s you’re goal, you’ll need to have a connection, or apply at least a month in advance for a press pass.

A DJ played music each afternoon in the courtyard.

Once you’ve taken photos of all the models, you may find yourself wandering outside for some fresh air.  A DJ was on hand each afternoon, and around 5 pm, free shots of fruit-flavored Vodka Montesskaya were handed out.  There were two areas where food vendors were set up so you could get some lunch as well, and a stage which appeared as though it’d host bands in the evenings.

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Evidently, Seth is kicking off his new position with a multi-month journey from Brazil to New York City, and he made sure to visit a few towns in southern Colombia. I remember being in Cartagena in early July while Seth was tweeting his way into Colombia. He’d already visited the bigger cities, such as Medellin and Cartagena, which is why he was more focused on some of the lesser known areas.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAvFcP2uNZY

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Written by David Lee

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Scenes from La Cabalgata in Medellin

Every year around this time Medellin, the “City of Eternal Spring”, explodes into a colorful and vibrant week long celebration. La Feria de las Flores, the Flower Festival, honors the regions flower industry, one of the largest suppliers in the world. The festival, which has been alive for over five decades, delivers all sorts of entertainment to Paisas and tourists from around the world.

Last Saturday, the main streets along the Medellin River where shut down for the annual Cabalgata (which can best be translated into “the horse & drunk cowboy parade”). Thousands of horses, cowboys, and cowgirls (more than I had expected to see) poured into Medellin and set out for a day full of riding and partying.

A group of friends and I set up a tent along one of the main roads first thing Saturday morning and we waited for the parade to begin. We barbecued and drank tons of Aguardiente and ron (rum), and by the time the parade kicked off, we were well into our tailgate.

A number of different military groups led the parade dressed in full uniform. As they marched through the streets of Medellin, the crowd cheered them on and the men and women smiled and saluted. A sense of honor and pride for Colombia grew stronger and stronger among the crowd as these brave men and women continued leading the parade.

Most of the cowboys and cowgirls that followed were dressed in traditional Paisa gear… a poncho, a sombrero, boots, and a bottle of Aguardiente attached to their mouths. As the day progressed the parade slowly evolved into a city wide party where the cowboys/girls began offering onlookers free rides and liquor and the crowd began offering the mounted men and women arepas and chorizo.

The Cabalgata is definitely an event worth experiencing and it’s a true representation of what Medellin is all about… family, friends, good food, and a great time!

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This post was written by Ana Rodriguez.

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Paisas watch the historic fireworks display over Medellin. (Photo: alrroya.com)

I arrived in Medellin just in time for Colombia’s 200th anniversary. The Bicentenario, bicentennial, was celebrated just as we celebrate the independence of our country. Everyone shows their pride for Colombia by hanging yellow, blue, and red flags from their balconies, windows and cars. Colombian’s take a long weekend and spend time with friends and family. They bar-b-q and drink for four days straight. Then finally they end it off with a bang… FIREWORKS!

This year the country of Colombia went all out with its celebration and spent an estimated 1.5 million US dollars on their never before seen fireworks display. The fireworks took place on Monday, July 19th at 7pm. Unfortunately I, and thousands of others, wasn’t able to make it down to the Medellin River in order to see the show in person.

I left my apartment in Envigado at 5 pm but there were no taxi’s or buses driving down to the river due to crazy amounts of traffic. I then walked down to the Metro station and proceeded to wait on a line of about 300 people in order to buy my Metro ticket. About 30 minutes into this I was advised that the Metro was no longer running due to the large amounts of people already at the site of the fireworks.

I rushed back home and made it just in time to catch the fireworks display on TV. They turned out to be way better than I had anticipated and I can honestly say that they were just as amazing as the NYC 4th of July fireworks display.

Nice job Medellin… Happy 200th birthday Colombia!!!

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Written by Ana Rodriguez

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The title seemed like a crass joke on a country and people (ok, the women mostly) I’d grown to appreciate in 2009.  The last thing I thought I’d do is review it here once it was released.

I met the author, Roosh, last year when he moved to Medellin to complete his South American travel memoir, A Dead Bat in Paraguay.  He struck me as a normal, down to Earth guy, with an uncanny drive to understand the social dynamics of dating women, whether in the USA or Latin America.  Perhaps it comes from his background in microbiology, but he has a knack for breaking down social experiences into their minutiae, and then being able to relay them to guys in simple terms so that they can learn how to better interact with women.

Dating can be hard enough in one’s own country.  Moving to another country where you don’t yet speak the language, nor understand the customs or culture, and it can feel especially confusing. The frustration factor can be especially high in Colombia, where the women (at least in this guy’s opinion) are especially alluring.

Don’t let the title fool you.  Bang Colombia, at its core, is a practical, 54-page “how to” guide for foreign men to date Colombian women in the most traditional sense.  Before Roosh had asked me to review his new Colombian girl guide, I’d already downloaded and read it, given I just arrived in Cartagena and was curious.

Everyone visits or lives in Colombia for different reasons.  Many foreign men visit solely for the prostitution (especially prevalent in Cartagena where there tourism is highest).  And I’ve seen firsthand in Medellin how others are seeking a wife, and pay matchmaking services to visit the country and spend time with a group of women looking to marry a Western man.

Roosh’s eBook and advice are at the opposite end of the courtship spectrum, and that’s why I feel comfortable writing about it on my blog.  While women may find his eBook (or sense of humor) in bad taste, I think it can be a big help to the single guys (of all ages) who visit Colombia.

In addition to offering practical advice about travel to Colombia, and learning Spanish, he relays numerous observations about the unique behaviors of Colombian women.  I was able to identify with almost all of them based on my adventures last year, so I can confidently say his eBook will help any guy make sense of how to go from meeting women to asking them out on a date (with minimal knowledge of Spanish), and then where to take them out.  He also recommends several online dating sites.  City-specific information is provided for Bogota, Medellin, and Cali.

Bang Colombia is currently available in three formats:  paperback, Kindle, and PDF download.

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Written by David Lee

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Carlos Gardel Sign in Buenos Aires. Picture by jglsong. Licenced under Creative Commons

One of the nice things about having traveled through most South American countries, and getting to spend big chunks of time in each one is that you start noticing and recognizing similarities between them. In the 18 months since I left Europe I’ve spent the most time in Argentina and Colombia, two countries that culturally are not that close. Colombia has a much more “latin”, Andean feel whereas Argentina, or Buenos Aires at the very least has a very (Southern) European vibe going on.

Medellin however, does have one very direct link to Argentina and this is Carlos Gardel. If you’re not South American, nor have you spent any length of time in Buenos Aires, then you may be forgiven in not knowing who this is.

Simply put, Carlos Gardel is Tango.

Born in the late 1880s (controversy still rages about whether he was born in Argentina, Uruguay or France)  he grew up in the Absato barrio of Buenos Aires and came to prominence in the early 1920s with his rich baritone interpretations of the tango-canción. Throughout the 20s and 30s Gardel was, to put it simply, a superstar. He toured all over South America, New York, Paris, Barcelona, selling thousands of records and appearing in several early Hollywood movies.

Tragically, however this all came to an end in 1935 when he died in a plane crash in Medellin. Popular there at the time, his death cemented the link between the Paisa people and the boy from Abasto, a link that still lives on to this day. Medellin has a few places where you can enjoy the silky smooth sounds of Gardel and even has a Tango Festival. This page, written by two tango fanatics, gives more details of the places to visit in the Tango scene.

So, when the Salsa and Vallenato all get a bit much, slip on your high heels (the ladies too!), head down to your local milonga and pay tribute to the King, Carlos Gardel.

Tango in Black. Picture by zabara_tango. Licenced under Creative Commons.

Written by Jonathan Evans.

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Man on Horse, Medellin

A local boy, born in Medellin in 1932 Botero has been producing paintings and sculptures in his distinctive style for the last 50 years. Much of his work takes classically recognized genres, such as the portrait and still life, and “fatifies” them. Other pictures deal with more contemporary issues such as the shooting of Pablo Escobar or his portrait of FARC boss Tirofijo, but all of them using the same unmistakable style.

Museo Botero, Bogota

A lot of the time however, Botero just seems to have fun. The sculptures in Botero Plaza are a great example of this – the cat and the man on a horse being my favorites, but see also his Mona Lisa. The Museo de Antioquia on the same square as the sculptures has a great permanent exhibition as does the Museo Botero in Bogota (which is free) – both are great places to spend a few hours in the company of Colombia’s biggest (in every sense of the word) artist.

Mona Lisa, Museo Botero, Bogota

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Written by Jonathan Evans

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I can say with 100% certainty that Medellin is a safe city.  I am from a small town in Idaho, and I feel safe here in Medellin.  So, I’m not even comparing it to other big cities.

Here are some of the most insightful or common questions I have gotten since I’ve been here.

Can I walk the streets at night? Absolutely!  As long as someone in your group knows where you’re going.

Alone? Only if you know the neighborhood and are comfortable there.

Are the buses safe? Yes.  You will run into people playing music, selling things, or just begging.  None of them care if you give them money or not.

Is the metro safe? Absolutely!  If there’s any sort of problem there are guards at every station and they respond very quickly to the alarms.

Are the taxis safe? Yes.  I’ve even gotten into the habit of hailing them off the street most of the time.  They all use meters, and the drivers are really fun to talk to.

Will I get robbed? It’s definitely possible.  It’s never happened to me.

Will I get hurt/assaulted/ect.? Again, possible, but only if someone is drunk or high, and you pissed them off.

Will I get kidnapped? No.  Not in the city.

Will I be a target if I’m wearing nice clothes or business attire? If you are in the main parts of the city, no way.  The majority of the people here care about their looks and nice clothing and business attire are extremely normal if not expected.  In the smaller neighborhoods you may stand out.  In fact, in the main parts of the city dressing in shorts and a t shirt may make you more of a target.

Will people try to rip me off because I’m a gringo? Maybe.  I don’t think it’s ever happened to me.  Most things have prices clearly marked, but haggling is common here.

Are drugs (especially cocaine) easy to find? No, it’s not just out on the street, but if you’re really looking for it you can find it.  Just remember, there are new drug laws, and you can no longer posses  any street drugs in any amount…none!

If you have any more questions, please ask!  If I know, I will be happy to answer it!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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A little more interesting, however, are the sounds.  I have come to love the sounds of the typical day in my neighborhood.  There are the cars and buses that drive by, some of which are ridiculously loud.  There’s often a baby crying, and it seems like there is the sound of a child laughing, whining, yelling, or just playing in each moment of the day.

I love listening to my neighbor whistle all day long with his pet bird accompanying him.  You can rely on having vendors wander by, screaming out the names of the different fruits and vegetables they have for sale.  I still can’t believe how load those guys are.  Even the random ringing of the doorbell from vendors selling anything from CDs to cake.

When the nearby school lets out, you can hear the boys whistling at the girls.  The girls giggle in their own groups, and let out the expected, shrill “Nnnnnoooo!” to the boys and to each other.  (Seriously, I don’t think the women here know how to just respond with a normal “No.”  They always turn it into a shriek.)

I admit that a lot of these sounds can get on my nerves as well, but it’s kind of comforting knowing everyday you will be reminded you are never alone in Medellin.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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New Years Eve is a party, for sure, with fireworks and tradition.  The next day, it is obvious just how hard everyone partied the night before.  Even some of the major stores like Exito were closed for the holiday.  Pretty interesting, considering most were open on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.

If you ever want to walk the streets of Poblado during the day, and see the streets and the parks empty, make it January 1st.  I definitely got the feeling that I could own the city for the day.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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My friend and I met up with the other kids at the Floresta metro station around 8pm and we all walked over to the family store.  There were chairs circled around the front patio, and already the Aguardiente was being passed around.  Having drank a large amount the night before, with the same family, I passed on the guaro and stuck with a few beers.

We spent some quality time with the family and were served a lovely dinner of pork, rice, potatoes, and salad.  There was also a bit of dancing.  As midnight approached, some of the kids wrote down their wishes for the New Year.

At the stroke of midnight, every person kissed each other on the cheek and we all wished one another “Feliz Año!”  The kids then burned their strips of paper, and ran off around the block with their backpacks.  This tradition is meant to bring travels in the upcoming year.  Several families in the neighborhood participated in this tradition, and those of us that stayed at the store cheered on the groups that passed by.

About an hour after midnight, we rode in our friend’s car back to Envigado.  When we got home, the streets were going crazy.  Everyone was partying and cooking in the streets.  You could easily see at least six fires in the street from cooking.  Many of the streets were also blocked off with cars or tied off with ropes, just so families could take over the street for their parties.

Once again, this place totally surprised me when it comes to knowing how to party!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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As I walked with my friends around Rio Medellin a few days ago,  I found that I prefer the atmosphere that accompanies the holiday season.  I really don’t know how to explain it other than it’s just a different atmosphere.  There is a communal hope in the air as everyone is remembering how far they have come in the last year…and the last 15 years.

This city amazes me a little more every day.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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The front of JD's house in Santa Elana.

The view from one of the many balconies.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Lighted Tree

The Fountain

The River

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Yet, somehow the young people all stay beautifully thin.  Probably because, like me, they don’t use this convenience unless necessary.  Like today, when I’m too sick to get out of my pajamas.  Just ring the pharmacy, and they’ll deliver you some antibiotics, pain killers, and even Gatorade.  No doctor’s visit required!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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Robin from The Arepa put together a great video of photos from the past year. If I knew how to edit video, I’d be doing the same!

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It has free events every night with live music, dancing, theater, and I believe even movies.  If you want a little culture for absolutely no money, this is the place to do it.  The first and second companies from Ballet Folklorico de Antioquia even dance there sometimes.  Just make you sure show up early for the more popular events or you will not get a seat.

My friend Mario and I went to the second company of Ballet Folklorico performance on a Friday evening.  We arrived over an hour before the show and there was already a line around the corner.  We ended up getting really good seats, and I don’t think I stopped smiling the entire time.

The show started with a humorous skit/dance on love and dating, and ending with a Latin-Afro blend of music and dance.  The entire show was high energy and featured dances from areas all around Colombia.

The show was great, and I always keep Lido Theater in mind for fun things to do any night of the week.

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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One night I saw a status update from a skydiver that read something like, “Still in Medellin…loving it!”  I commented and said that we needed to get a drink soon.  The next day I got a call from Juan.  He told me that he was leaving that evening, but he would love to at least get lunch…”Oh, do you like horses?”

I think my gasp of excitement gave away my answer before I actually said anything, and within the hour I found myself just up the hill from my house in Envigado at one of the most beautiful stables I have ever seen.

I got a quick tour of the property and introduced to some of the horses.  I have been impressed with a lot of the horses here in Medellin, but these ones are of a whole other quality.  They are huge, strong beasts that are light on their feet and trained to fight bulls!

Me meeting one of the horses in Envigado

I was then asked if I was ok to see something “gruesome.”  So off we went to the lower arena to watch the vet work.  It didn’t take long to figure out exactly what was going to happen.  I hung back on the benches, until everyone told me to take some pictures!  So I did and laughed with everyone else as the vet castrated a horse.

Juan with the Medical tray

When that was over, it was finally time to ride.  I watched Juan get his riding lesson, and I was super impressed with the talent of both the rider and the horse.  They are trained to do so many amazing things to get out of the way of the bull as quickly as possible.

Juan convinced the owner to let me ride as well.  I was super excited because I have ridden a lot in Idaho, and I was really confident.  The second I got on, however, I realized I was in way over my head.  I am used to riding Western Style, where horses are trained to respond mostly to bridle input.  The horses here are trained to respond to saddle input, and weight changes.  I had to be really careful about how I balanced on the horse because leaning in any direction is basically a command.  I got brave enough to do a little cantering, but I didn’t last very long.

The View from the Hill

After riding we all went out to lunch, and I finally had my first taste of Bandeja Paisa. So yummy!

So far, that has been my best day ever in Medellin!

Post by Holly. Currently living in Medellin, Holly is getting to know the Colombian culture through music, language, and base jumping!

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The neat thing about Ruperto Ferreira (1845-1912) is that he was the first engineer to graduate in Colombia and was educated in philosophy, literature, science and art. He was also involved in politics and many activities during his time in the Treasury Department and in government railroad projects. Ferreira taught many subjects including botany, zoology, geology, chemistry, engineering and even architecture.

His botanical illustrations, aside from having superb visual and historical quality, show the passing of time on some of the plants – some have little bugs, others have partially eaten leaves. It’s very raw, giving his work much more validity as a documentary of 19th century Colombian illustration, botany and fauna. This exhibit will be open until Feb. 2010, but I really recommend checking out it before if you get the chance.

Antioquia Museum

Antioquia Museum

After walking around the museum my husband and I took a stroll in the Botero Plaza, where you can witness his gorgeous over-sized bronze sculptures. The City of Medellin is currently cleaning and renovating some of the sculptures, so you might come across these peculiar white wood enclosings, each with its own peep hole to see how the workers restore them!

Here’s another typical sight: Human sculptures! This very talented man gives you a small token, a string bracelet, as a thank you for giving him some spare change.

And this lady is just a couple of feet away from the last human sculpture dude.

I hope you get a chance to visit this great part of town!

Cathy

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I went to one of the common Nacional v. Medellin games. Mostly because it was cheap, but also because every time I mentioned wanting to go to a game, this was the one everyone recommended

The South Side

I met up with a fellow couchsurfer, and his only directions were “Don’t wear red!”  The Nacioanl colors are green and white, and the Medellin colors are Red and Blue.  Going to the game it was really interesting to see that pretty much all Nacional fans come from the South and Medellin fans come from the North on the metro.  I found that extremely convenient, and since I was coming from the South (Envigado), and wearing white, it also kept me feeling very safe.

One thing I found out was to leave your belt at home, because they are not allowed in the stadium.  My experience was very similar to Dave’s experience at the game earlier this year.  In-fact, our pictures are almost identical.

I did a little studying the night before, (Yes, I know absolutely nothing about soccer.) and found the game really exciting.  We sat on the East side of the field at the edge of the upper deck near the South side.  Nacional scored the first goal at the beginning of the second half, followed extremely quickly by a Medellin goal.  Medellin scored two more and the game ended with a score of 3-1.  There were a few fights on the field at the end of the game between the players, but they quickly stopped.

Now that I think I’m hooked on this game, I just want to know: When is the next game, and how do I tell Ryan that I’m can’t support his favorite soccer team because they are the wrong colors?

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Flowers

I had only been in Colombia a few weeks when Valentine’s Day, 2009 arrived.  When I asked around about special events at the bars and clubs, I was informed that most Colombians don’t celebrate V-Day.  Instead, they recognize September 19th as a Day of Love and Friendship.

The rest of the world celebrates Valentine’s Day on 14 February, but Colombia has never been one to go with the flow. Rather, on the Day of Love and Friendship, citizens go a little loopy sending love letters, exchanging gifts, and indulging in a bout of ‘Amigo Secreto’ (known to the rest of the world as Secret Santa, whereby gifts are anonymously given to one’s designated person along with clues as to one’s identity).

— Colombia Reports

Read the rest of CR’s article on the Day of Love and Friendship, which includes perspectives from several Colombians, both young and old.

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I’ve met at least a dozen guys that have decided to stay in Medellin long term, but I have yet to meet, in person, a single girl that has come to appreciate this city the way the guys do.

The standards for women here are quite different from the standards in the countries that most travelers come from. The problem is, they are very fashion oriented and not very obvious. There is a lot to fashion that I am completely oblivious to, but here are a few tips to make fitting into Medellin just a little bit easier. Looks are key here in Medellin. Sure, other girls care a lot more about it than the guys, but women are the larger part of the population here.

Don’t look like a backpacker. Guys can get away with it, but a T-shirt and shorts will not cut it for women.

Make-up is not optional. It doesn’t have to be super heavy, but unless your skin is naturally flawless, throw on some type foundation and at least some eyeliner EVERY TIME you go out.

Leave the heels at home. Unless they are extremely professional looking, heels are considered tacky, especially at discos. A pair of really nice flats or wedges will go a long way.

Keep accessories simple.  Wearing a lot of jewelry will only get you attention from robbers.  Keep accessories small, shiny, and cheap looking.  Sequence jewelry is the most popular style I see here, and earrings are the most common accessory in Medellin.

Nice jeans are a staple. A simple skinny jean is popular right now, as is a boot cut that has many elegant embellishments. Make sure they are dark wash or white. Shorts are much more rare, and should be as formal as possible.

Tops must shine. They don’t have to be metallic, but they should be at least slightly attention getting. Something that has much attention to detail, a great pattern, and/or flashy colors is what you’re going for. T-shirts must be extremely fitted if worn at all. Tank tops and spaghetti straps are great, but make sure you keep your stomach covered. A small gap above your pants is ok.

Skirts are great but be careful with dresses. Skirts are not as common as jeans, but they are pretty much a free ticket. Keep them a few inches above the knee or longer, unless you have a tiny frame, and any style, color, or material is acceptable. Dresses are just less common. A simple sundress can be worn pretty much anywhere that is casual. Keep them simple for during the day. Dresses are not always common at a disco or club. I would stay away from them unless you know for sure.

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We later watched Che over at a friend’s house. We made dinner for everyone, and they explained what significance this kind of movie had for them. Revolution still hits close to home here.  I’ve met quite a few locals who have some close ties to the fighting that has gone on here.  One girl I know told me that her Uncle is still being held captive.  Through my eyes, looking at Medellin today, those things seem like they should be in a more distant past.  The city’s past and current growth is nothing short of mesmerizing.

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The antique car parade was great, and it was nice getting to watch it just a few blocks from our home.  I am a huge car fan, and most of the cars were either very nice or completely hilarious.  The driver and passengers dressed up to go along with the decade or theme of their vehicle.  The most popular was a guy dressed as Michael Jackson.

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Enjoying coffee at a Juan Valdez Cafe in Bogota

The Juan Valdez cafe adjacent the Fernando Botero museum in Bogota was the first place I enjoyed a cup of authentic Colombian coffee.  When I arrived in Medellin, the cafe in Parque Lleras became my favorite place to meet people because it was so easily recognizable to foreigners and locals alike.  Offering a Starbucks-style experience from the pastries to free wi-fi and comfortable seating, the Juan Valdez cafes are apparently a new offering in the country.

Juan Valdez: The Most Famous Colombian is a brief article posted over at Good Times in Medellin Colombia tracing the history of Colombia’s famous coffee ambassador.

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Park and planetarium near Universidad metro station

This is truly my first time traveling outside of the United States, so I’m noticing quite a few things that are different to me.  These things are definitely not bad, and mostly entertaining.

The most fun, definitely, is: Most drinks are sold in bags.

You can find water, juice, and milk sold in bags.  Actually, I haven’t found milk sold any other way.  Other things like mustard, mayonnaise, and jam are sold in paper containers with twist off lids.  Kind of like the material juice boxes are made of.

Most people around here don’t wear wedding bands.

I complained about this once to another gringo, and he made fun of me because the only reason I didn’t like it is because I didn’t know who I could hit on.  (He was right.)  I was also told that there is no such thing as a single Colombian woman.  Meaning that most women find their husband/boyfriend while in school.  I have yet to have much experience with any of this, but I will say that the two Colombian girls that I know are definitely single.

The guys are not that bad, and the women aren’t that hot.

I was told by several guys that I was going to be at a disadvantage in Colombia, because there are so many beautiful women, and there aren’t any hot guys.  Honestly, I was expecting to see a bunch of “12′s” (on a scale of 1-10 of hotness) when it came to women.  There are definitely a lot more “8′s” and “9′s” than in the US, but few of the women are tipping the scales.  The average attractiveness for men seems very similar to those in the US, other than most of the men are a bit shorter.

The people here are really nice.

The taxi drivers have almost always been great to me.  Most even help me to learn a little Spanish.  (Big Tip:  If you don’t speak Spanish, have the address of where you want to go written down!  Whether you’re taking a taxi, a bus, or the Metro, you will always be grateful you have it.)

The people here are amazingly nice.

The best example was when I was going to meet someone at 8pm.  He told me to take a bus, and gave me generally crappy directions, but I knew the area of town alright, and I figured I wouldn’t have a problem.  I ended up at the end of the line with no one that could speak English, no number to call, and no actual address.  Everyone at the bus station tried to help me.  One guy finally called his daughter that spoke English, and she came with her boyfriend to help me out.  They figured out where they thought I was supposed to go and then drove me around until everything was settled.  The only thing they would let me get them was a beer.

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I utilized couchsurfers to find a room to rent. Many people were very kind and helped me find the right spot. In the process, I met a few really great people with whom I hope I can have some grand adventures. I ended up in Envigado, with a guy from Virginia. At first, I was hesitant to move in with a gringo. I realized that because I don’t speak any Spanish, that some potentially bad situations could be avoided by living with someone that I could communicate with easily. Once I get a bit more settled, and learn at least some basic Spanish, I will revisit the idea of living with a Colombian.

The apartment we are in is extremely different from where I’m used to living, but so far I love it. The building is at the end of a small dead-end street. There is always music on, and the neighbors play board games in the street. There are a few large grocery stores about five minutes away, and there is a small store just down the street. (Though, I’m convinced there is a small store down the street from everywhere in Medellin.)

Right now, I’m getting ready to go camping with a few people that I met while finding my new place. It’s going to be quite a trip, with five people and two dogs. I’m excited to see if camping in Medellin is anything like the camping I used to do in Idaho. We would usually go out with a few cases of beer and plenty of marshmallows. Right now, everyone is keeping the plans a surprise for me.

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This is a 10-minute TV clip of the 2009 Flower Festival which I saw referenced in the weekly newsletter from Colombia Reports.  Certainly a lot of flowers in the parade.  My favorite was the police dog carrying a little one on a two-wheeled cart being pulled behind him around the 7:40 mark.

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rlx97Bkxj_0

The 2009 Feria De Las Flores (Flower Festival) wraps up tomorrow, so hopefully some good video footage from the last week’s festivities will show up on YouTube.  I think this promo captures what it would like to be in Medellin for the festival, plus it features some very old footage from the early to mid-20th century.  Lots of parades, concerts, horses, antique cars, music, flowers, and people having fun.

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We eventually made our way to a small reggae bar in Envigado where there were street style dancers from a few local schools, as well as a few live reggae bands.  One man performed a couple of skits.  I couldn’t understand much of it, but I know they were funny.  They also showed a couple (really bad) short films.  The club would have been amazing if I liked reggae, but honestly, I didn’t feel moved by any of the music.

The next day was the cavalcade (horse parade).  I forego it in order to look at a room I’m considering renting, but I did catch glimpses of it from the Metro.  There where thousands of people on the streets, and they were close enough to pet the horses as they went by.

Vendors were set up literally everywhere.  They were just feet from each other, selling many kinds of delicious food, flashy sombreros, candies, gum, clothing, jewelry, and random knickknacks.  The whole atmosphere was exciting.

There are events setup at different shopping centers around the city.  I went to see an automobile display and a Japanese Bonsai display.  They were both interesting, and the city has obviously gone through a ton of trouble to put together every event.

After sunset, the streets began to fill with people.  Several roads are blocked off for the street parties.  It was weird to see all of the open-air restaurants empty, as everyone took to the streets and small bars.  I personally have never seen so many people in one area before.  Overall, the city is pulsing with excitement…it’s completely impossible to escape it!

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Charity block party in Medellin

On a beautiful Sunday afternoon, I met Lily at the Exposiciones metro station and we took a taxi past the San Diego Mall on the way to one of the city’s poorer neighborhoods.  I was joining her in support of a local charity run by a woman who cleans the office space in which she works.  Yes, apparently the cleaning lady is a community leader and has inspired many of those around her at home and at work to help out.  As is often the case, the actual event had little in common with the picture I’d conjured up in my head.

Singing and dancing

We exited the taxi a block from a tent under which music was blasting, and people were singing and dancing.  The sides of the narrow street were filled with people coming out to support the event.  People were selling crafts and knick-knacks from small wooden stalls.  We bought two beers and found a few free chairs in the shade offered by a porch.  And since there just happened to be homemade empanadas for sale on that same porch, we enjoyed a few of those too.

Lily and I at La Octava bar the night before

The afternoon gave me a chance to get to know Lily a little better in a part of Medellin much more indicative of the larger population’s lifestyle (vs. my Envigado and El Poblado).  Some of Lily’s coworkers were there, and we received a short tour of the rather large home out of which the charity was run.  A game of bingo was set to begin in one of the large rooms.

Kids at play

A playground was perched on the mountainside with a perfect 180-degree view of Medellin in the valley.  We were able to spot a variety of landmarks from the vantage point.  We enjoyed a second beer (in the name of charity) and headed back down into the valley as the sun began to set over the western mountains.

View of Medellin as the sun begins to set

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Medellin

Just as in many Latin countries, the Paisas are frequently late. They may tell you 7:00PM but do not expect to see them until 7:30 to 7:45. No matter how much you complain, you will not change their culture so just get used to it. It can be very frustrating to a westerner. To the locals, it is no importa! — Medellin Colombia Culture Gram

If you’re planning a visit to Colombia, or simply want a better feel for the cultural norms, than check out the Medellin Travel Guide’s new Medellin Colombia Culture Gram. The blog post covers a variety of topics from discussing the country’s wars with the locals to race, homosexuality, and on the lighter side, dancing and meeting a woman’s family.

After spending 6 months here, I can identify with most of what is written.  Great info to be aware of before you arrive!

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Player Annoucements

Last week, Medellin had the privledge to host its first World Cup qualifying match, ever!  The opponent was the rather weak Peru, and despite Colombia’s low standing in its group, the paisa fans came out in full strength to support the home team.  I met up with Sirley at the Estadio metro, surprised to see it was a family outing for her.  I was introduced to her Dad and brother, both BIG soccer fans.

Sirley's dad and brother walk past the riot police (aka Robocops)

The first benefit of going with them was they knew a way to bypass the long, winding line near the stadium’s entrance in front of the metro.  We just walked down the street a bit, and in through the gate where I bought my ticket (Oriental section) earlier that morning for a notable 70,000 COP.

We were patted down and given the all clear to proceed.  We were a good hour and a half early, but the stands were already filling up for the 6pm kick-off.  We walked around the stadium to the center of the Oriental section, and were patted down by security guards a second time.

Once inside, we waited in line to pick up some yellow Aguila beer plastic things.  I wondered why we bothered, and was anxious to secure a good seat, however I felt like the guest and followed Sirley’s lead.  Her and her family had been to a lot more games than me!  It turned out the plastic device is blown up and then used to make a loud noise, kind of like clapping but achieved by smacking two balloons together.  The stadium was filled with people wielding these devices, and once the game got started, I found them a lot more effective at making noise then mere human hands.

Me, Sirley, her brother, and dad

The sun was beaming across the stadium at us as we sat down right near the center of the upper deck section of Oriental.  Our four seats were right near the portal entrance so there was a lot of foot traffic before the game and during halftime, but the view was otherwise perfect.  Unlike the other games I’d been to, there were no vendors selling soda or food in the stands.  I wonder if that is some type of FIFA rule related to World Cup games, but as Sirley commented, it meant a lot of vendors were losing out on potential income. We each got BBQ chicken on a stick, which is accompanied by a boiled potato, arepa, and side of salad.  The Colombian-style hot dogs are too messy for me.  And I still miss being able to enjoy a game with a cold beer in my hand.

Sunset

A marching band came out before the game began, as did a group of Aguila models, both groups walking around the stadium.  When the players hit the field, the stadium erupted with confetti and streamers thrown onto the field.  After play began, Colombia came out aggressively and should’ve scored at least a goal or two in the opening ten minutes, but failed to capitalize on opportunities.  I quickly learned Sirley can yell with the best of them.

As the first half went forward, the sun slowly set behind the clouds and mountains, providing relief from the heat.  The twinkling little lights on the mountains began to light up.  Meanwhile, on the field, Colombia scored the one and only goal of the match.  At halftime, I went in search of ice cream but they didn’t have the kind I liked so I settled on a bag of potato chips and a Coke.

World Cup action under the lights

There were no problems that I saw with fighting, which meant the Robocops probably had a tranquil night.  In general, the crowd seemed very friendly and upbeat.  Of course the cost of the game was higher, so that may have helped to keep out some of the riff-raff.

Towards the end of the match, Peru was getting a lot of opportunities in front of the Colombian goal.  The whole match was suddenly a nail-biter for the wrong reasons, but Colombia prevailed and won their first World Cup qualifier held in Medellin!

www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyiYVeba2XA

This marks my third soccer match in the city and all three have been a real treat.

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Museu de Arte Moderno de Medellin

Note: There are two modern art museums in Medellin, but apparently only one website (which is for the other location).

Visiting the Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellin (MAMM) has been on my “to-do” list since my first week in the city, but I fell out of sightseeing mode before I made it there.  Luckily, there are couchsurfers like Sarah who are all to happy to show off a little of their city, regardless of how long a guy’s been living there.

As I exited the metro at Suramericana, I bumped into Angela, another couchsurfer who I hadn’t seen in months.  It was a nice surprise, and we took a few minutes to catch up.  Sarah arrived soon after I consumed a tasty chicken pastry and soda at one of the little stands near the metro.  We then proceeded to walk for about 10 minutes until we reached Carlos E. Restrepo Park.

Entrance to the museum was free, and we proceeded to the second floor for a photography exhibit featuring three artists who previously participated in an annual show in Bogota.  All of the prints were very large, which worked well to fill up the gallery space.  Sarah was the perfect companion for this venture as she is a photography student.  Plus, her English was great, having previously spent three and a half years living in southern California.

After perusing the works in four different spaces, including those by Antioquia locals such as Debora Arango and Hernando Tejada, we exited, and I ran into Adriaan of Colombia Reports who was engaged in a business meeting.  Hanging out in a park on a cool weekday afternoon is not a bad way to conduct meetings.  He recommended coming back to the park on a Friday night when it’s filled with people.

Sarah and I sat down at one of the nearby cafes and got to know each other better.  She just happened to have a photography project with her, which I enjoyed.  Spending time with her reminded me of my college days engaged in the arts.  The majority of my classes were held in dark rooms with a slide projector, but I had a few studio classes too!

One of Sarah's colorful photos

When I asked her what she planned to do after college next year, without hesitation, she said “travel” and I knew I was speaking with a kindred spirit.

See more of Sarah’s photos on Flickr.

______________________

Museo de Arte Moderno de Medellin – Carrera 64B #51-64, Medellin.  Phone:  57 (4) 230-2622.

Hours: Tuesday-Friday 9 am – 5 pm, Saturday 10 am – 5 pm, Sunday 10 am – 4 pm.  Closed Mondays.

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I had previously taken about 10 hours worth of classes at a studio in Washington, DC back in 2006, however I never went out to the Latin clubs to practice.  As a result, I forgot the moves I had learned, though I still remembered the basic steps and movements.

The first class was a lot of fun, though it was incredibly hot inside the studio, which is really the converted interior of a house.

A converted house turned dance studio

There were two older Colombian women, and a young European girl studying abroad, plus three young Colombian guys.  The ratio was a person off, so after some basic steps on our own, I partnered with the teacher for a dance or two, before we began a rotation.  It is always interesting to see how women dance differently.  Some like to lead more than others, and of course until I become a stronger leader myself, I prefer the ones who are not so aggressive!

I decided to sign up for 2 hours a week, for a month, and see where that takes me, but that’s not all.  Lessons without practice outside the studio, won’t get me far.  So I am dropping my timidity, and looking for any willing Colombian partner to join me on the dance floor.  Plus, the Dinamo gym recently began offering a Rumba (aerobics) class which basically a dance class set to a variety of common tropical music here, such as salsa and meringue.  Since I am already paying for a membership, I can take advantage of those classes at no extra cost, and really accelerate my learning!

Unlike in the USA, the majority of women here in Colombia grow up dancing salsa, at least as far as I have found.  As a result, they not only love to go out dancing on the weekends, they’re damn good at it too, and often willing to take a gringo for a spin or two if he invites her (though odds may be lower if you don’t realize she is with her boyfriend or husband!).

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The South American club tournament – Copa Libertadores

The home team – Independiente Medellin

The visiting team – Sao Paulo (Brazil)

I met Adriaan at his apartment downtown around 6:30pm, with rush hour in full swing and rain beginning to fall.  I had decided to leave my camera at home so I wouldn’t have to worry about it being stolen, or further damaged by water.  We took a taxi toward the stadium, picking up his Colombian friend, Nicholas, along the way.  Nicholas is a Humanities teacher from Bogota, working in Medellin for 6 months. 

We bought tickets from the first guy on the street who offered them to us, and probably payed a little more than was necessary (over the face value) but it wasn’t much by western standards.  Our seats were in the Oriental (eastern) side, which is where I sat for my first Colombian futbol match a few weeks earlier.  We ate a few pre-game hot dogs, and given all the vendors screaming “gaseosa,” I also felt the desire to drink a few sodas.  As a reminder, no alcohol is sold at the matches. 

Independiente Medellin fans at a day game

Around 7:50 pm, the national anthems were played, and the Medellin fans at the one end of the stadium lit up about 30 red flares, issuing off a cloud of smoke which drifted above the stadium as the game got under way.  For the next 90 minutes, it was standing room only for the thousands of passionate supporters over there.  Their drums, chants, and cheers echoed throughout the stadium.  By comparison, I only saw one obvious Sao Paulo supporter. 

While we were all there to support Medellin, we were also excited to see some Brazilian futbol played live before us.  But Sao Paulo looked uninspired in the first half, and Medellin scored the first two goals, with Sao Paulo getting a quick and brilliant one before halftime. 

The second half had Sao Paulo on the attack, and there were a few close calls, however Medellin managed to hold them off and take the win.  Since the score of the first match played in Sao Paulo was 1-1, Medellin’s win at home puts them in a good position to advance further in the tournament. 

Unlike my first futbol match, I saw no evidence of fighting in the stands at this one, though it was less crowded.  Perhaps having a common international opponent keeps things on an even keel.

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Procession for Semana Santa

The Holy Week of Easter is the most important Catholic religious festival in South America. Semana Santa, Holy Week, celebrates the last days of Christ’s life, the Crucifixion and Resurrection, as well as the end of Lent. Semana Santa is observed with a range of celebrations, from the most solemnly religious, to a mix of pagan/Catholic, to commercial. There is a four day long weekend in Medellin so it’s party time!!   — from MedellinColombiaTours.com

As 90% of Colombia’s population is Roman Catholic, Semana Santa is a big deal.  Universities are closed, people travel to other parts of the country (the coast being especially popular), and companies give employees at least a 4-day weekend (Thurs, April  9 – Sun, April 12), if not longer.

I had heard you can see processions in the street with people carrying figures of Jesus Christ.  I didn’t have to look hard, as I encountered my first one while awaiting a bus in Poblado to Casa Kiwi Hostel to type this post.  A pick-up truck was driving slowly, playing loud, somber music, while an MC (or priest), would occasionally chime in with spoken word.  People young and old, including parents with newborns in strollers, slowly walked down the street.  Many of them were carrying palm leaves.  If anyone knows the significance of them, please leave a comment!

I hope to seek out a few more events this week, whether by hanging around some of the churches, or mere luck.

Colombians reflect during Semana Santa

As a result of this religious holiday, my few English classes have been interrupted.  One student is on vacation with her family, and said it would be a full two weeks before she might have time again to meet, while another has the week off from work and asked if I could come to her home for classes.  It is safe to say most people’s minds are not on learning English this week, which I can understand, though it doesn’t put money in my pocket!

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Salsa show performers

Last Thursday I met up with Joe (Australia) and Sirley from Couchsurfing for a salsa show at the University of Medellin.  The headlining couples were from Cali, and both pairs were world champions.  Carlo Acrosalsa y Jimena were 2008 champs in Miami, while Genner y Yudy were the 2007 champs.  The theater was about 80% full, with most of the empty seats in the more expensive section close to the front.  We had paid $16 per ticket and had a great view.

Medellin Couchsurfers (from left) - me, Sirley, ?, and Nicholas

The show was hosted by a gregarious older man who loved to introduce each dance performance with a loud, rolling ¨salsa!¨  The two world champion couples performed about four or five times over the two hour show, and some of the acrobatics they did were amazing.  Watching the men’s knees move, you’d think they were made of rubber.  They were lightning quick.

Also rotating performances were nine couples.  I enjoyed them quite a bit too, and according to the choreographer, the women who would dance on their toes like ballerinas for some numbers, were the only ones in the world to do so (perhaps at least as it relates to salsa dancing).

But the show was stolen by a little kid.  He couldn’t have been older than 10 or 12, and his female partner was equally young.  He was like a young, Latin, Michael Jackson.  Simply amazing.  No photography was allowed during the show, so I cannot share pictures or video.  He danced at least as much as any of the others during the performance, if not more.  He even had a solo performance.  I think I saw a future world champion in the making.

Dancers mingle with the audience at the end

At the end of the show, after the bows were taken, the dancers started bringing men and women onto the stage to dance, much like the end of the movie Dirty Dancing.  I had a great time, and hope to catch a tango show next.

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Sarah (left), the night's entertainment (center) and me

I think of Mondays as my chance to highlight the cool new bar or club I visited over the weekend, however this past Friday was a much more personal and family-oriented experience. I met Sarah a little over a week ago during my all-too-short night of salsa dancing.  We met up again this past Friday afternoon at EAFIT.  She already had plans to meet Angela, one of her ten aunts, so I joined them for coffee.  Angela was taking English classes, so communication between the three of us wasn’t without it’s follies, what with me trying to speak Spanish, however it was a fun time.  Her Aunt invited me to her brother’s 60th birthday party that night, and I gladly accepted.

Back at the apartment, I asked Maira what to expect, and she shrugged as if there’s nothing different about a birthday party in Colombia then in the USA, but I was still a little anxious knowing I would be the only outsider amongst a big family event.  It required the assistance of a few helpful people, however I managed to find the home hosting the party, and made my entrance with the offering of white wine in hand.  I was barely inside the living room when I was handed my first little plastic cup of Aguardiente.  Two older men were sitting down, playing guitar and singing songs in Spanish, and everyone seemed happy.  Any insecurities melted away as the introductions were made.

Birthday hijinks

The whole family welcomed me.  I practiced my Spanish.  I was able to speak English with a few people.  People were singing along with the guitarists, arroz con pollo and homemade chocolate cake were served, and eventually everyone was dancing.  I must’ve danced with at least five different family members including Sarah’s mom, sister Luisa, Angela, and a short stint with a 1-year old on my lap.  I even received a few compliments which only reinforced my desire to get better!  Upon reflection, I realized how big a change it was from the not so long ago days when I use to be any party’s #1 wallflower.

Later in the night, as the cake was being presented, a man and a woman dressed up as a priest and a nun.  I don’t know why it happened, but they were quite funny.  I made my exit at the same time as Sarah and her sister, catching a taxi back home around 1 am while others were still having a good time.  This was exactly the kind of experience I was hoping for when I decided to stop traveling and get to know people and a culture more deeply.

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Pablo Escobar's old safe house

Independently finding the location of Pablo Escobar’s grave online was easy.  Trying to find the location of the safe house above which he was shot and killed was difficult, giving me all the more motivation to find it first hand so I could share it here.  I went to the folks at PoorButHappy, kicking off a 30-plus posting dialogue.  Amongst the comments, I was given the address I needed.

Condemned!

A few days later, I recruited Henry and his friend from Holland for the adventure.  We took a taxi in the pouring rain from the city center toward the address:  Carrera 79B #45D-94, near Estadio Girardot (the city’s big soccer stadium).

The taxi dropped us off one street away, though we didn´t know that at the time.  The street addresses in Colombia can be very confusing.  We walked around in the rain for about 15 minutes until Henry asked an older couple in the clean, middle-class neighborhood for directions.  The first man we asked didn´t know, and didn´t seem to interested in remembering such a bad man, however the second couple offered the info we sought.

View from the doorstep

We found the house, which as you can see from the photos, is basically condemned.  Look closely to the right, and you’ll see a homeless person asleep in the corner.  The graffiti is the easiest way to spot the location.  Also, if your taxi is having trouble, just remember the house faces the canal running along the street in the neighborhood.  Address…graffiti…canal.  Good luck!

Address where Pablo Escobar was killed:  Carrera 79B #45D-94, near Estadio Girardot

Further Reading

Killing Pablo by Mark Bowden

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Painting in Envigado

I could only walk by the painting pictured above so many times before I needed to take a photo and share with the world!  It’s stands about two blocks from my apartment in Envigado.  I am not sure what it means, though there is some text on a scroll in the mid-right area.  What strikes me most is the nudity of the women.  Not something you’d see in your typical American neighborhood!

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Pablo Emilio Escobar's family grave

Pablo Emilio Escobar’s grave is certainly a site of interest for those visiting Medellin, though curiously it was not listed in Lonely Planet’s 2006 Colombia guidebook. The tourism industry in Medellin, and Colombia in general, is still in it’s infancy, so it currently falls upon the intrepid traveler to track down sights of interest.

The Escobar family grave

The grave of the infamous and ruthless Medellin Cartel leader rests in an idyllic setting at Cemetario Jardins Montesacro in Itagui. He was shot and killed by police while trying to escape on the rooftop of a safe house on December 2, 1993.

Fernando Botero's depiction of Pablo Escobar's death

On one of Medellin’s typically beautiful, warm and sunny days, I took the metro to Itagui, and asked a cab driver to take me to Escobar’s grave. Along the way, though he spoke little English, the driver was able to communicate his father worked for Pablo Escobar, and made a lot of money.

The cemetery looked pleasant, and the driver walked me to the Escobar family grave which was clearly well maintained.  The Don is buried along with his parents and a few children.

A Colombian couple was there, though I couldn’t tell if they were curious like me or paying their respects.  Maybe both.  Pablo Escobar was something of a Robin Hood, using his drug money to build homes for the poor and employ them as well.  Judging from the uptake of his grave, complete with fresh flowers, he is still revered by some in the region.

Further Reading

Killing Pablo by Mark Bowden

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Commercialization and the American influence stills seems to have creeped down here with regard to Valentine´s Day as I´ve seen at least one club fly promoting this weekend´s events around the holiday!

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